BrickMonkeyMOCs

As great as Mike Psiaki's 10248 Creator Expert F40 set is, it definitely benefits from extending the wheelbase and rear end by a stud to improve the overall proportions. I made this modification back in February, but I was recently asked for the parts needed to make this change and have subsequently spent the last few days building the modified version in LDraw so that I would have a permanent record of the mod to use as instructions. And now that it's done I might as well share it here for anyone else interested in making the same adjustment. I've also removed the stickers and windscreen printing, and replaced the printed C-pillar wedges with plain red ones. The extra stud of length is added to the doors, side skirts, and space between the rear window and wing. LDraw File: [FREE DOWNLOAD] List of needed extra parts: [FREE DOWNLOAD] Extra Needed Parts

You're welcome. Thanks, and I agree on the real car - it's an absolute monster. It sounds pretty good too. :) Yes, it is built in LDraw (parts ordered from B/Link and due in a week or two). The hubcap insert is available in the official parts library (though only that particular design); and other parts, like the 1x1 w/ handle and the 2x2 wings, are available as unofficial parts via the Parts Tracker at LDraw.org.

I have a Lamborghini design in the works to go with these city-scale racers. It is a Huracan GT3 in lime green with a removable engine cover...

I think you'll find LEGO Ideas asks specifically that you do not do that... https://ideas.lego.com/guidelines "Do not create mockups of LEGO product boxes (“box art”) or marketing materials in your images. Projects including box art or anything that attempts to mock up product marketing materials will not be accepted. Mocked-up box art confuses people into thinking your project is something they can buy right now." Best of luck with the project though. It's a great model.

You need different length axles from those used in the original set, but otherwise it is straightforward. Make the horizontal axle longer, going all the way across the turntable assembly, and move the bevel gear on that axle from the back of the turntable to the front. Then shorten the vertical axle so that it stops above the horizontal one.

I created a bunch of these military models back in 2009 and have revisited them this year with several improvements. The latest to receive attention is the Little Bird helicopter, or 'Killer Egg'. The two main changes are switching to a two-pilot cockpit, and installing a five-bladed main rotor. The old 1x4 wings used on the old model as side pillars have been replaced with new parts - the 1x2 curved slope and the 2x2 wing - which help further develop the egg shape of the main fuselage. The cockpit console has also been redesigned. The MH-6 variant has troop carrying platforms that sit a little further outboard than before, and the fast rope system combined with BrickArms vests (with a stud on the back) allow for rapid deployment of personnel. The AH-6's rocket pods have also been modified. Instructions available via the link in my sig.

I built a bunch of these military models back in 2009, but have revisited them this year with improvements and upgrades. The OP has been updated with the new version of my AH-64D Apache Longbow. The main change is swapping the prefab trans black hinged two-piece canopy for a brick-built cockpit frame, which I think much better represents the look of the real helicopter. Other improvements involve updates to the sidepods and nose, which have gone through several iterations over the intervening years. Instructions available via the link in my sig.

I designed a bunch of military model back in 2009, and have revisited them this year with a number of upgrades and improvements. The OP has been updated with pics of the updated Humvee model. The main improvement here was shortening the wheelbase by a stud to improve the overall proportions. The whole model is one stud shorter in length, with the shortening of the rear cabin section. Other improvements include redesigning the hood connection for greater strength, adding wing plates and pick-up hooks to the front hood, and removing the black stripe from around the top front and sides. The model now comes in two variants: a regular sloped-back version, and a command square-backed version. The older stripped down spec ops variant has been retired, with both remaining variants now capable of being stripped down with the removal of the doors and rear hatch for special operations use. Instructions available via the link in my sig below.

I was excited when Carl Greatrix' Caterham Seven was selected by Lego Ideas to become a set, and have been patiently awaiting its release. While there are many aspects of the model that are really great — all printed parts with no stickers, amazing detail in the engine bay, clever building techniques, and a great colour scheme — I have to say I felt a bit underwhelmed with the completed build. The designers seem to have sacrificed overall proportions in some areas for structural rigidity and sturdiness, and yet despite this many parts remain quite flimsy. However, with a bit of effort and some spare parts it isn't too hard to correct the flimsy bits and improve the proportions with no significant loss of sturdiness. This thread is to assist anyone who may also be less than entirely satisfied with the official build, and would like a few tips on how to improve their model. Here is a list of improvements featured in the above revised model: Reduced colour barf throughout the model's interior Front axle and fenders widened by one stud Nose section locked in place more securely Removed ugly underside front rail to nose transition Lowered overall height of the bonnet by one plate Dashboard redesigned and connected more securely Secured forward connection of the side exhaust Filled in gap between the bonnet and dashboard Replaced seats with design matching prototype version Reduced gaps between the rear wheel arches and wheels The end result is, I think, a better looking and sturdier model that I am much more satisfied with, and one which I am very pleased to display on my shelf. Below is a link to the LDraw instruction file for anyone interested in modifying their set to this version. DOWNLOAD LINK

The legs are easy to modify for height (even if a complete redesign would be better). I've just taken a full two studs of height out of them merely by connecting the click hinge hip joints lower down on the technic brick they connect to. Actually, two studs of reduction looks a bit too short. One stud may be better.

This is beautiful. Supported. I particularly like the studless design, chromed wheels, and minimalist sticker usage.

Oh, I see now what the difference is. Not the console, but rather the way I've built around the flickfire missiles at each side. I've used LBG 1x2 down brackets with DBG 1x2 plates w/ door rails added (studs outwards and rail at the top). The head's side panels sit on top of these rails which has the effect of reducing wiggle in the side plates and also raises them a little, which is what is making a difference for the roof. (There is a DBG 1x2 panel under the bracket to stop it getting pushed off downwards by the weight of the side panels.) This has the effect of raising the side panels in relation to the roof and front panel, reducing the gap you speak of.

Thanks. On the eyes, I think I have a good effect generated by continuing the line from the gap (between the front and side panels) up past the eyes with a layer of DBG plating sandwiched between layers of LBG plates. This was a very welcome side effect of keeping the forward side panel connections at the front. I can explain the roof underside without a picture, I think. It simply sits a plate higher by having LBG 1x10 plates running along the underside edges and a 1x2 plate at center front where it rests on the front face. The only other change to the roof underside was swapping out the two 2x3 plates used as reinforcement for two 3679 turntable tops (which do the same thing with less bulk). The ingot pieces are absolute gold (:P) for greebling, especially with a set like this. It really is the perfect piece for the sensors between the eyes. I've even gone back and done the same thing on my older and smaller 8038 AT-ST.

Here are some photos of my modified version, including all of the OP suggestions along with others I mentioned earlier. The core functional changes are fitting two crew and reversing the direction of the head control knob on the back. Key cosmetic improvements include the leg detailing, cockpit controls, rear vents, chin turret, and the sensor panel between the eyes.

One particularly good cosmetic enhancement I've found is to use a 1x2 LBG ingot on a 1x2 up-bracket placed between the eye-ports as the front sensors. I've also used a few of the same parts in place of the 2x4 tiles on the legs

Thanks for sharing your modifications. I was thinking of passing on this model until I saw how good it looks with the 2x2 flags for eyelids. BTW, the toes you've used work great and look perfect with 1x1 cheese slopes underneath. I have incorporated all of your changes along with making a few more essential mods. Cosmetically I colour-swapped out all the brown, yellow, and trans red, and I also replaced all the stickers with printed parts or brickbuilt solutions (including the cockpit controls and rear exhaust vents). But the two critical modifications were modifying the cockpit to fit two figures, and modifying the internal mechanism so that turning the rear knob left turns the head left (instead of right). I have also built around the exposed spring-loaded missiles at the sides using 1x2 brackets, and added the needed circular parts beneath the chin-mounted blasters. Modifying the cockpit to fit two figures is straightforward, and so easy and obvious that one wonders why the set designers settled for a single seat. It was just a matter of adding four jumper plates for the seating offset, adding an extra backrest piece, and then reducing the layering on the inside of the side walls. As noted in a previous post, the forward side wall connections must also be moved. I have simply moved them forward one stud (rather than moving them to the rear).

Thanks, but I can't see Ferrari ever signing off on a licensed model of a car they don't actually produce. And if made generic it would no longer be true to the source material from G24Studio who would also have to sign off on it. Thank you! The internal venting is also reproduced, with air being ducted through the nose section and wheel wells. I've added Caterham-style jacks for displaying it when disassembled, and will also make use of the spare printed fuel filler cap from that set when it comes out.

Thanks for sharing your pictures! That truck in the last shot looks amazing (and about the right scale to serve as a transporter for the LMP1). I'm not familiar with the livery—is it motorsports related? Either way, it is beautifully detailed itself. (BTW, it looks like the engine cover isn't quite sitting fully flush in those shots. You should check that the hoses in the engine bay are fully inside (and not on top of) the two black snotted headlight bricks in the sidepod assemblies to each side.)

Sure. I'm working on a Mazda MX5 as a commissioned build.

Thank you. I do have another 1:17 scale car in the works, though it will be decidedly less exotic than this one.

In general I think allowing cats pee on your models or parts is a pretty bad idea, chromed or otherwise. I would not recommend that at all. I really like the stands included in this set and have stolen the idea for my recent LMP1 MOC. Sariel, in your review you mention that it is hard to fit all four of these stands in the boot even when disassembled. Yet the clearly shows the reviewer fitting all four assembled stands inside the boot with no apparent difficulty. Can you confirm?

An interesting suggestion. It would definitely be nice to have a specialised sub-forum for scale-modelling, though only if there are sufficient numbers and interest to make it work. And would a Fabuland/minifigs/all-the-rest forum survive on its own? A further issue with the above suggested split is that many military MOCs (the good ones at least) would also qualify as scale models (just consider Mad Physicist's 1:22 Tomcat, or D-Town Cracka's SA-19) — and the last thing you want is a situation where build quality determines where a MOC will go. Perhaps you could swap Creator and military in the above proposed categories? Or, given the rather low interest in military MOCs here, does 'military' even need to be specified? Minifig-scale military vehicle MOCs could simply go in either Town or Scale Modelling by choice of the builder, while military dioramas go to Special/other themes? Creator sets (including Creator Expert) could easily be discussed in the second suggested sub-forum, while MOCs in the Creator Expert style go to the first suggested Scale Modelling sub-forum. It would also be good to have some clear and accessible guidelines differentiating Model Team and Creator Expert, as before reading this thread I would not have made any distinction between these two as MOC categories. Maybe you could just drop 'Model Team' as a label? The actual official theme is long gone, and I expect most builders can decide for themselves if their model belongs in Technic or scale-modelling. It is just a matter of how much technical functionality lies under the exterior. I would suggest that a functional Technic chassis (steering, suspension, working engine, etc.) belongs in Technic regardless of whether the body is built from Technic beams & panels or from system parts as with a Model Team set, while a MOC with minimal Technic parts and functionality—where the focus is instead on detail and appearance—deserves a different home.

Superbly detailed and accurately shaped. Even more impressive as your first vehicle build at this scale. Decals look great. Did you paint the black exterior of the white wheel arches?

Thank you! I must have done something right if you think it will stand comparison to diecast models of a similar scale. :) Sweet! Thanks for that. I bought both flat silver and pearl gold rims, and I'm still not sure which I prefer. I did ask in the help forum about where to put 1:17 scale cars but didn't get a response. To be honest I'm still a little confused — is there a difference between the Model Team (Technic forum) and Creator Expert (Special Themes forum) style of MOCs? Thank you. I have tried to include as much realistic detail as possible, even where it is mostly unseen. For example, there is leg space and pedals under the dash, and the aero venting really flows through the nose section and behind each wheel through the bodywork. Firas has definitely been a source of inspiration. Thank you, and yes the source material was linked to in the OP. A large scale powered Technic version would be a very cool project.

Thanks. Structural integrity is one thing you can never be quite sure of with a digital design until it is built, but there is sufficient plating in the floor of the chassis for it to be quite robust and sturdy, even with the engine cover removed. One tricky part was the top half of the front windshield, which is held in by tension from the parts above and below it. Thanks Clive! Inspired by the work of builders like Malte Dorowski and Jens M (Lego Exotics), I really wanted to add as much detail as possible, especially in the engine bay, which was tricky given how low it had to be under the engine cover. Thank you. I had the advantage here of some truly amazing source material, but of course the internal detailing still had to be invented from scratch. Thanks for the feedback and I'm glad you like it. The model makes a nice partner for my earlier F1 car, and as with that one I have also made a microscale version to go along with it.