v6TransAM

Your right, I was thinking backwards on that one. Batteries are like oil filters, most get made by a few companies and its whoever has the best deal/price, so every so often the cases change a little and the points/ends change a little. (I've had the issue personally with Energizer, Duracell, Eveready, cheapie knock off's and Eneloops.) (sidenote: depending on older/newer batteries some would work some would not) That aside, I have a near 2 and a near 5 yr olds and I go thru lots of toys/batteries/rechargeables/etc. Compared to every other toy they have, the Lego battery box has the smallest holes for contact and is the only one that is finicky ironically

Lie detector alert!!!!! My sons 60052 cargo train battery box would not work with Eneloops when we put it together on Christmas, didn't waste my time trying anything else since this was like time number 5 now of the poorly fitting battery box. This is not a "recent" problem either. I threw the box on my shelf and used an already modified one. Lego shop employee or not, please do not spread false information. Lego redesigning the box would be a great solution and would only need a mold fix to accomplish, not even a new mold since it would be taking away from the area. Of course 5 minutes and a couple of drill bits later and you will never have the problem again.....

Substantiate with further info? Steam, diesel, rubber band power?

With the colors used, you want to puke by the time you get done going thru the help indexes here. A search function by forum would help out a ton, not to mention be a much more modern board.

Cool, thanks man, I wasn't looking for them under slopes(I suck at bricklink unless i have part numbers already) So I know the crossings used the slopes for the approach, it is just regular tiles between the rails then? Or did they ever have pieces made for between the rails with tiles on top? Plain tiles on top of plates between the rails seems to catch some equipment so I was wondering about the official crossings.

No problem, I just want to get the word out on the easy fix for the battery boxes since they all need it to solve the issue 100%.

Open the battery box up. The holes where the pointed tip of the batteries go is what u want to open up slighlty. I use a 3/8 drill bit followed by a 7/16 bit in my hand to open them up slightly so different size battery tips fit better and make proper contact. Clean up extra flash with a hobby or utility knife and never worry about it again. I think I have 6 battery boxes now between sets and extras I've purchased and all the ones I have used so far needed to be opened up slighlty for eneloops and newer Duracells(larger tips than my old batch).

All the Lego battery boxes have the same problem, its a 2 minute fix to ream the holes slightly and never have the issue occur again.

Howdy, I just want some pieces to build a simple crossing or two so my boy quits taking apart everything with tiles to make them Tried the library section and bricklink and ebay lol. Not sure on parts however or if they differ from other tiles for between the rails since we are using plastric track for PF trains Also at a loss on finding the actual sloped piece part number for the outside the rail approach. Please help me not go nuts by rebuilding everything on a weekly basis :-)

If your new to the game go PF, unless you have good money to spend on it. While a lot of us wish 9 volt was still around, its not to be and none of it is getting any cheaper. If it was still around I would be putting DCC in stuff lol So my boy and I use PF, I shop for sales, deals and bulk lots, thats when I get stuff 98% of the time. Its easy to use(my 4 yr old pulls motors/receivers/etc by himself and builds stuff) and available for a good price.

Ream the holes and be done. Most batteries change in their life times and as I stated, most are done by contract/bid process so the actual manufacturer changes and so will the size of the tip.

OMG, do u have drill bits? yes or no? No, go buy a small set. Take a 3/8 and ream the holes for the contacts in the battery box by hand, then enlarge a little with s 7/16, clean up flash with hobby or utility knife. U will never know unless u look and no one will be the wiser. Some batteries have issues and some do not. Here is a clue, batteries are like oil filters, whoever bids the cheapest gets the contract so the same brand might not fit next time around. Ream the holes once and done. No big deal and never have the issue again. Do not listen to so called "purists" who have no issues and Lego doodoo is gold

Per their updates, they have said they would be putting track up for sale on their site and other venues. It did sound like these would be batches that were not able to be used to fill orders as in wrong combinations of pieces to fill the order or smaller quantities than what was needed to fill other open orders.

We need less Eurpean and more American locomotives, be it steam or diesel. Overall history is 90% European. Either way I hope the set is a good design, current freight set and previous freight set have nice engines, so either way I hope that continues. If we get another new train set, maybe that means Lego train is doing better than the doom and gloom here predicts. It also still leaves hope we may see another nice Creator train as well if they thought a City set was worthy as well.

Maybe we are all thinking of this the wrong way. Lets get on the modular concept. The previous version of the station was relatively easy to lengthen/widen to accomodate train length or multiple tracks, while the newer station is so few in parts and a rather bland design. Quit thinking modular like the other "modular" creator buildings and think more modular like linking existing station structures together that would be a standalone small station by itself. Or say if you bought 3-4 of them there were alternative builds for a larger station out of the parts or options to lengthen or use for multiple tracks. This would get better results than 3300 piece "modular" limited to train buffs only. Maybe this is a chance to think otuside the box to get the desired end result.

Woohoo! Just got me email about shipping from ME Models Eric you need to get to the post office sooner its not going out until Mon!!! I'll keep it as a surprise for my bozo, he will think its neat

This is getting as sad as the Transformer forums and Masterpiece figure speculation. Its over....................ehmagard no!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm taking a wait and see, blowing out the TGV made no sense if there wasn't something else in the wings. Also the assumption that "we" are the only ones buying the Horizon Express are a joke. At the end of the day, regular and casual fans far outnumber the people who frequent message boards by a large margin. Reading reviews on other sights about the TGV backs that up. Its a good looking train and a fun build, Lego train forum folks are not solely responsible for its success, so I think relaxing and seeing what happens is wise.

I'm going to make this clear, its not a Duracell problem, its not an Eneloop problem, its a LEGO problem. Don't drink the Kool-Aid and be blinded by the obvious. Wish my pics were still in that old thread I made. Take a drill bit and ream the holes out by hand and you have permanently fixed it.

Exactly on the remote. Each side has 4 separate channels so you could run 8 trains if u wanted lol I use one side for motor and the other for lights :-) Get some lights from Lego and sneak them in on your son he will flip out ! Here is the link for u: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=90756&hl= Should make it real easy for you

I'll tell u right now why. Search Eneloop as I did a post on it. Take a 3/8 drill bit and gently ream the holes in the battery case by hand, then folow up with a 7/16 bit by hand. Clean up an flash and you will never have the problem again with any battery in it period. I used one of my other battery boxes on my sons new cargo train I assembled yesterday because it did the same thing as the others, I have 3 or 4 that I have reamed out by hand now and once you do it u will have no problems with batteries.

Should see light on remote when u turn a dial/buttong Hook motor directly to battery box and try. Get a voltmeter and check the batteries out if in question. Does the light on the battery box turn on green when u press the button on? Are you sure you have it hooked up correctly? Go thru the instructions carefully and double check controller and receiver on right channel(same)

I think we should all become paranoid and freak out about it :-) Relax folks, I am sure they are doing all they are able to get this out to us. If you have never been involved in something like this before, I can tell you this much, if it can go wrong it will and if you think it will be done in one month it will end up being three months. Small scale does not have the resources of a Hasbro or Lego and in house development so it all takes longer than anyone will originally think.

Looking good man, I like the details and the all around right size if the station

It's great we have folks like Doyle McCormack who make keeping stuff like this steam possible

lol Looking on ebay, my two HE's that aren't built yet might end up there I do want one nice complete trainset though, my boyhas another one and it appears we have another near complete one out of a 42lb bulk lot I snagged off of ebay a while ago. I do want to see a new train, hoping for something from the good 'ole USA, since I wasn't into it for the Santa Fe, BNSF or Maersk stuff