bricks n bolts

See below, theory was right about the 3 pieces of flex track combined with the Shapeways piece giving you a complete conversion section : You can't tell from the picture but the Shapeways piece is a slightly different colour blue to Lego standard and not as polished plastic. Here is a complete section joining to '80s grey : And just for good measure, to '70s blue :

Congratulations on the the wonderful build. Love the modular layout, is great for all of us to see in case we get inspired to try just a simplified version of your marvellous creation. Are there any instructions available? Love the details too, don't get to see information like that at my local ticket office, usually not as gripping

I wouldn't normally but the £12 a box for RC straights Amazon UK offer beat the individual Bricklink and shop at home prices. Besides we may need some (3 at least) for use with the Shapeways conversion piece

Yes please!

Thanks, would that be the 31mmx3.5mm ones? Do you have to adjust much for the change in height compared to o-rings? I was going to follow Toastie's guide for fitting o-rings (http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=48948&hl=br23) which if I follow correctly the height adjustment required should be minimal.

I have a question, anyone know a good supplier of red o-rings for BBB XL wheels? Think I've found some in black (from ebay/Hong Kong - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360541603907?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649) but wheels are red and ideally want them to be only 1.5mm thick rather than 2mm.

Got my first ever flex track today. Noticed that the 12v curved conductive rails won't fit on (ignoring the underneath plastic tabs) but the straight ones will. This is because the a flex track curved doesn't equal a standard curve piece, it's a couple of mm too long. So flex track completely useless for 12v curves (and curves are what it was made for ..lol), it should still hopefully help make the conversion piece with a piece of 12v straight conductive rail. Have ordered that piece from shapeways, so should be able to confirm that soon. I should have also mentioned that the grey 12v conductive rail straight doesn't need any modification for the above mod, only the blue conductive rail straight and both era's curved pieces. Another thing I have noticed, is if you are going to use the grey era straight interrupt track with RC rails it's best to use this version (http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=3242d) rather than this service pack version (http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=3242b) if you want it to fit without modification. I will probably end up making my own blue interrupt rails anyway...

Yes, definitely one...I have them too.

Nice set. Not for me as still saving, clearing space for Horizon Express and I generally like to keep things European. Has lots of playability already, I wonder if the instructions will include a guide for PF conversion, looks like you'd really have to size-up the tender to fit the battery box in. Also, that loco is screaming for different front wheels, plus steam rods. Not to mention the black axle pins... (as already pointed out)

Thanks, just bagged some of that Free P&P too, so even cheaper..

Have some BBB wheels too, which will run my BR35 when I finally figure out the gearing, also want to put some on a crocodile design. Looks like you might try 'grey-on-brown' track, I thought about that but couldn't be sure of the long-term availability of Enlighten track. If you do try it post a picture

Ha, I'm just embarking on a similar project so can compare notes so far. I've modified the bottom of the 12v rails (removed the plastic bridges that stop the studs fitting on) so that the rails fit exactly rather than being offset like you have. I tried both with '80s and '70s rails, I do prefer the 'blue-on-bley' look I tried this first on some old beaten up track that I didn't mind breaking : Here is the bottom of the rails (you can see the plastic tabs have been 'rubbed out' with a file) : This leaves the RC track intact and only slightly/invisibly hurts the conductive rails (you don't see anything from the top or sides). My ultimate goal is to do this for RC switch points, this will take cutting the conductive rails and adding blue (or light grey) tile...once that is done we will have a complete alternative rail system. I use RC wheels a lot as well as some original 4.5v/12v, and want to minimise the friction on the curves and speed up the trains a bit. One thing that I admit gets to me about 12v is the design of the switch points, being remote controlled is great, but the curve isn't ideal and the pickup contact could be better.. I also have a theory which I haven't tried yet - that if you take the 3D printed adapter (http://www.shapeways.com/model/454182/lego-rail3.html - which you can order in blue and not grey by the way!) and add 3 bits of flexi-track to the RC end you can then put one straight piece of 12v conductive track right on top to serve as a conversion from traditional 12v to our 'new 12v'.

You can with some fiddling about mount the old '70s red wheels onto technic pins (you need specific older style pins with the right inner diameter). Not well enough for drivers but should be OK for carriages, etc.. That would still limit you to the length of two pins (4 studs) or over unless you also shorten the excess length from the pins. Often have the same thought.

Love the work! Looking forward to the confirmation of the 'pizza cutter' wheels fitting well and the Bricklink shop. I wonder if you will consider selling / constructing custom 12v pickups too?

Thats' great work! Nice idea using the chrome elements on the water crane too.

Thanks, I'm running mine off the transformer D.C at the end plug where all the switches go, don't notice any drop off from there. Sure is, dont forget to check out my post on how to use PF motors on 12v http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=63535&hl=

Wow, amazing work Andromeda! Can you cut to shape a black "Brick, 1x1 Round"? Certainly seem the right outer diameter, not sure about inner diameter (http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=3062b) but the walls are likely thinner than on the old ones (http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=3062old).

I don't know if that would fit, but if it can, the "Mottraxx" 263 motor you can get from Conrad is the 12v equivalent. Have swapped one of these out into a PF motor, the same motor also used in Railbricks article to replace the older '70s 12v motors.

Cool, will it be like the classic repair shop from 7777 - http://www.peeron.com/scans/7777-1/77 ?

Thanks guys! I did do one in red whilst waiting for clear LEDs to arrive :-)

Thanks for the links! I missed those micro-filament bulbs on Conrad. I wonder how they compare with the original Lego ones for brightness and longevity. Also lots of interesting things on http://www.heinerberg.homepage.t-online.de

Nope, the LED chosen has a built in resistor. http://www.goodwillsales.com/white-12v-flat-top-3mm-leds-no-resistors-required-prod-2114.html Good brightness too, I have several of these running now in my lamp posts.

Thanks for the guide DjiM! I'm also considering butchering PF track, although for 12v operation.

I had a whole stack of broken 12v light bricks where the bulb had gone. In particular they don't last that long when set in lamp posts. Sick of buying more so needed a way of replacing the bulb with a longer lasting LED. The first difficultly was finding the right LED with a built in resistor so they can run straight off the 12v power supply. I hadn't found 3mm white/clear LEDs before, just coloured ones, but found a supplier here for what I needed. These should also work fine for 9v. Then the other tricky bit was to open up the light brick without breaking it. This wasn't as difficult as I first thought, so here is the guide - no soldering and no glue! The tools used (almost common household items!) excluding the light brick and LED are : 1. A micro-screwdriver. 2. A bent curtain hook. 3. Some sharp nail scissors. https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo1.jpg Step 1. Using the screwdriver scrape off the plastic tab that helps hold into place the inner part of the light brick : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo2.jpg Step 2. Using the holes for the plug as an anchor lever out the inner part of the light brick with the sharp end of the bent curtain hook until you can get under it : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo3.jpg Step 3. If the inner part is still not loose rotate the other end of the curtain hook in the space made at the bottom : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo4.jpg Step 4. Take out the inner part : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo5.jpg Step 5. Use the micro srewdriver to remove the old bulb and contacts until the inner part is clear : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo6.jpg Step 6. Throw away the old bulb and wiring and Insert the LED : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo7.jpg Step 7. Bend the LED wires around the light brick making sure the LED is centred : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo8.jpg Step 8. With the screwdriver continue to bend the LED wires into the plug contact holes : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo9.jpg Step 9. Re-insert the metal contacts. This may take some force, but it will be this additional friction which means the removal of the plastic tab earlier doesn't matter : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo10.jpg Step 10. Trim off the excess LED wires with the scissors : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo11.jpg Step 11. Re-join the central part of the light brick with the cover (remember which way is up!) : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo12.jpg Complete! Remember as it's an LED it won't work plugged in either way to the power supply, but that doesn't bother me in the slightest as you just turn the plug around / swap the pins if it doesn't work For train lights where the power will be reversed when you reverse the train I can recommend Janco's light bricks which are superb

Great job! Can't wait to see finished product. Also curious about the item description for the brass tubing you've used.