Sariel

Well, I keep seeing "studfull" being used everywhere in our community. Also, the editor who's the native English speaker did not object. But he didn't object inserting hamsters either, so maybe he was just going easy on me ;)

Well, you're in for a lot of reading. The final page count is 352, and that's after a lot of cuts.

Well, I don't think it would be difficult to use 2 at this scale:

I see. I noticed 2 IR receivers and though there were 2 RC motors. One motor explains the speed.

So, are you using one or two RC motors, and what's the gear ratio? The truck looks really good, but I think it could go much faster with RC motors.

The truck is excellent as usual, and I love these show-through images you're making. Really nice, really creative.

62.5 studs. The car is lovely, I like the details and the body color which somehow works really well. You also did superb job with the photos. I would think about the rear wheels though - perhaps some wider, typical slick wheels would work better, as they did for my old HR:

General tip: building is more pleasant when your pieces are clean.

Nope. I gave you complete instruction for one half of the chassis, which you can transform into the other half easily. As for the bodywork and all the rest - I don't intend to deprive you of the pleasure which is using your own creativity instead of just following instructions.

They are more common pieces, I think. 1x6 thin liftarms are a bit rarish. Plus, you cut weight a bit using plates. Too much hassle, I think it's clear enough as it is.

The link is triple-checked and working fine. You're doing something wrong.

For anyone interested, here is complete high-quality building instruction for the rear half of the chassis, with drive and suspension: http://sariel.pl/down/zondasuspesion.pdf It's rather easy to add steering to this, and get the front half too.

Except you're mixing up subtractor and adder. Adder is for coupling motors together. Subtractor is for something else entirely: http://sariel.pl/2009/01/subtractor/

Do you mean a subtractor? There is none in this model. Also, your image isn't showing.

I've never heard of ibooks, but it's going to be available as an ebook. Probably for iPad too, unless we get sued by Apple.

They look like a differential connecting two motors and they even out differences in two motors' speeds.

Electric motors don't "simply freewheel". Instead, the slower motor will be acting like a brake on the faster one. This will create stress between the motors and some power will be wasted. Plus, RC motors overheat easily, so any extra stress is likely to force you to wait for them to cool down.

Yes, exactly.

They're not simply doubled - the first differential couples two motors acting as an adder, the second drives the rear axle. Ran away when he heard about "cutting on weight".

After a few months' break, I'm building again: Reading & pics: http://sariel.pl/2012/09/pagani-zonda/ Video:

Someone already did.

No, he knows my hamsters are too lazy and fuel-inefficient. Congratulations Zblj, now put together two of these and you have a working Bat-Pod.

I frankly doubt it. This model is too likely to loose traction and to lift wheels off the ground for effective braking. Lack of steering? It steers quite well, as you can see in the video. You can also see that without the differentials it climbs most obstacles at first try. They certainly do. They are heavy, big and wide, so they lower the center of gravity, improve ground clearance and provide better traction. At the same time, they require more torque to drive.

The news 4L tan axles that come out of the differentials, for example. When I was taking them out, I noticed some plastic dust around them. But then remember, that I gave my Crawler a really, really hard time before.

Thanks. I'm not sure if it vibrates more, but there certainly is a lot of tension going on between the wheels. There's a part in this video early on when you can hear the knobs squeaking, which is a sign of very high torque.