Anio

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Everything posted by Anio

  1. Surprising, as it makes the engine run faster.
  2. Fair enough. Then it is just the instruction that is not correct on this tiny detail. Not a big deal, if you ask me.
  3. 2 : Who told you LA input were supposed to be orange ? They are dark red. 4 : Use your nail (or the edge of any Lego part) and push the axle out.
  4. Anio

    UCS TIE Silencer

    This is because of the scale. It is just a bit bigger than 75179, and so it gives a lot of opportunities to tackle the model in a different way. The interesting thing here is that you generally don't need to increase the size like crazy (+100% or +200%...) to go from a minifig scale set to a UCS model. +40% / 60% is generally more than enough. You can check with many UCS sets and their minifig scale version (TIE Fighter, B-Wing, ISD, Slave 1, Y-Wing, X-Wing). There are few exceptions, such as UCS MF and UCS Snowspeeder. edit : my UCS TIE Silencer in "only" 44% longer than 75179.
  5. See my review on Techlug : http://www.techlug.fr/review-lego-technic/42110/land-rover-defender-42110-milan-reindl-2019 You will have all the pictures you need for whatever you are looking for in that set.
  6. A black 12t on the yellow axle is missing. This axle is the exit of the main gearbox. No other gears on the red axle than what is shown on the picture. This axle is the entry of the main gear box. Entry / exit : with a way from the wheels to the engine of course.
  7. That would be an option. But it makes the "slow mode" with lever at the front, while it would make more sense if pushed toward the rear.
  8. And now what do we know from 42056 and 42110 ? TLG really has hard times with gear sequences. :D Full review here : http://www.techlug.fr/review-lego-technic/42110/land-rover-defender-42110-milan-reindl-2019 In French, but you may translate. Loads of photos. Full gear ratios (from differential) : Low : 1:0,93 ; 1;0,56 ; 1:0,31 ; 1:0,19 High : 1:0,34 ; 1:0,2 ; 1:0,11 ; 1:0,07 R : 1:0,11 So you may have note that low 3rd and 4th, and high 1st and 2nd use the same range. This is not realistic but it's not such a big deal.
  9. Indeed ! I actually never apply the stickers. Didn't see that hi-lo sticker was printed that way. To me it is obvious that when lever is push at the rear, it makes a multiplication (from the wheels towards the engine), and so it is Low gear. So, to sum it up, @kbalage you were right : both stickers are wrong. At least from a true mechanical perspective. It kinda reminds me the thing with 8457 power puller and the "arm with muscle" thing. You know, to explain the variation between speed and torque. The way TLG explained it was wrong.
  10. Let's consider that when lower gears are engaged (either in the hi/lo gear box or on the main gear box), engine is supposed to move faster (which is only logical btw). So, hi / low gearbox and sticker : With this : On this picture, it is a reduction (16 => 20). So, it is the Hi mode (to drive). While on this picture : This is a multiplication (20 => 16), so it is the Low mode (to go over obstacles for example). Then on the main gear box at the rear of the car. Which looks like this : Starting from the axle with DBG 24t gear, gears are (and look at the olive green part at the same time) : 1st gear : 24:8+ 16:16 + 20:12 => x5 2nd gear : 24:8 + 16:16 + 16:16 + 16:16 + 16:16 => x3 3rd gear : 16:16 + 16:16 + 20:12 => x1.67 4th gear : 16:16 + 16:16 + 16:16 + 16:16 + 16:16 => x1 So I'd say that only + / - sticker is wrong.
  11. I analyzed the model in depth, and I would say that the high / low sticker is correct in the instruction. But + / - sticker (the thing with black brick 2x2 round) is not correct. Given gear ratios, + should be on the right, not on the left. Can anyone confirm ?
  12. As I said, I didn't do all the maths yet. I will within the next 2 or 3 days. I just built the model as shown in the instruction. And checked, double checked, triple checked and more everything. So I have no building mistake. Just imagine that I was so baffled with the thing not working that I even checked twice if I used a differential in the wrong way. After 25 years of Technic, I am glad to say that I didn't do that rookie mistake. Phew !
  13. I said 1 gear. Not 1st gear. ;) The engine rotates faster in lower gears of course. Yep. And because it is the only way that makes sense.
  14. Reverse works fine. 1 gear is more or less ok with right lever on High. All other gears crack. U-joint are properly aligned to have constant velocity.
  15. Well, I hope that the car engineers of the future didn't get their passion from 42056 and 42110. Otherwise, future generations are in serious troubles.
  16. Coudn't be more wrong. The gearbox of 42110 is precisely not that complexe because it can easily be decomposed to offer a very nice understanding of the whole set up. I mean, it is complex because it has a lot of gears, but it is simple to decrypt. In this way, it is a very interesting model... if it works correctly. :-/
  17. Hi ! I didn't do the math exactly with gears but it seems ok. 1, 2, 3, 4 are in the right order. Low / High speed just modulates 1, 2, 3, 4, and so it keeps the right order. As for reverse, ratio must be ok. The various levers/controllers are nicely put together. It is a nice set up. But still, I have shitloads of friction on my model. The engin would never work. I just have big cracks, like 42056's crap. Though, main components (engine, main gear box, high/low gear box) work totally fine if I disconnect them (especially at the U-joint, where it is easy to disconnect things without having to torn the model apart). Which makes me thing that the problem comes from all the friction be added / put together. @Sariel @kbalage Any idea ? I wouldn't want to publish a review saying that the model doesn't work properly for undue reasons.
  18. On such a ship, I don't want to know what is inside. Not at all. Had enough with 10221. What a nightmare.
  19. I made a short video to compare 10030 and 75252. 75252 is of course better. But the old 10030 is not that bad after all.
  20. Anio

    UCS TIE Silencer

    Thank you Cygma. :) I think it is due to the build that is both simple and sharp. As for plans, well, send me an email and I will see what I can do.
  21. Well, Star Wars movie are full of inaccuracies. =)
  22. Here is my review of the set : http://www.techlug.fr/review-lego-star-wars/75252/imperial-star-destroyer-75252-henrik-andersen-2019 If you have any question, feel free to ask.
  23. Definitely prefer the Falcon 75105 from 2015. It was much more flat than this new model.