langko

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Posts posted by langko

  5. Posted

    17 hours ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

    I like the part usage for the headlights--there's just enough of those in the set! I'm sure the headlights could be improved using extra parts not included in the donor set, but this isn't a bad solution given the available parts!

    Pretty creative solution for sure! If you were willing to ditch the b-model you could change them to the trans clear version of the same part and it would instantly look a lot better. While you’re at it change all the dark azure to dark blue (the dual color tone of the Bugatti isn’t doing anyone any favors with b-models) and you’d have a pretty decent looking model. 

  6. Posted

    41 minutes ago, teddy_malone said:

    Just have to source the parts. Will see which version I'll decide on. 

    I keep comparing early builds by Artemy, renders available online and your latest build, and wonder if something changed in the suspension setup? It looked as if the car was suspended higher in the early photos, and in yours it seems closer to the ground. Is it just an illusion, or did it compress under its own weight or in fact there was some kind of redesign?

    Either way, beautiful work. The physical built surpassed the renders and must look even better in person.

    Have fun building it, if you need to source the Dark Blue parts I recommend buying the newer ones (the ones available in the Ford Gt set) direct from LEGO pick a brick, as I found it a lot cheaper than bricklink. 

    The suspension is probably a mix of all those factors. Renders will quite often look higher as there’s no compression. I don’t know if there was any redesign from earlier versions to the version released in the instruction. It is adjustable as well so it’s possible you could’ve seen some photos with it in a higher setting.

    Yes it definitely doesn’t disappoint in person!

  7. Posted

    10 hours ago, teddy_malone said:

    One more thing that I think would be super-cool is full dark blue version. Either the Corsa version with different spoiler and few cosmetic changes, or just the road version with different panels.

    I know it would be a lot of work (probably especially the front cover and doors), and I'm not sure if it's even possible with Legos, but it would be a cool addition to the line-up. Maybe someone (or you) is already working on something like that. 

    I had thought about trying an all dark blue version when I built the model, but there are many smaller parts and connectors that aren’t available in dark blue. In the end I didn’t think it was worth trying to modify so much of the bodywork to make work, especially when I had a lot of the white parts in my inventory already. But I wouldn’t say it would be entirely impossible though if you were willing to give it ago. 

  9. Posted

    Anything seems to be acceptable when we are modifying official sets (within accepted building techniques) so why should we treat MOC's any different? As long as credit is given to original designer then go for it. 

    As a designer myself I think it would be ignorant to think my way of doing something in a model is the best way of doing it, so I am more than happy to see what other peoples ideas are. Take my Huayra as an example, which went to the next level when working with @astyanax, and when we released the instructions I even encouraged modifications in my short intro to the model. I think it is good to encourage creativity and putting your own spin on a model.

    Personally I just finished modifying @Jeroen Ottens venom for the second time. The first attempt I had at it I didn't find satisfactory but this time I am quite pleased with it. The list of modifications now is huge... I rebuilt nearly the entire front end of the bodywork, rebuilt the rear bumper, lowered the rear suspension, redesigned the doors so they don't snag on the surrounding bodywork, changed the white interior to DBG, entirely new seats, strengthened the chassis in some parts, trans clear on the mirrors and other minor changes to other areas of the bodywork etc... I shared some photos and thoughts of my first attempt in the respective thread, but have been too lazy to do it this time. But this thread is good enough inspiration to take a couple photos of it.

    Comparison Photos:

    800x800.JPG800x800.JPG

    New interior.

    800x800.JPG

  14. Posted

    2 hours ago, LvdH said:

    Let's see...

    Porsche 911 GT3RS: a somewhat experimental set by LEGO, but still a car where you cannot just walk into the nearest Porsche dealer to buy one.
    Bugatti Chiron: Multimillion dollar highly exclusive flagship hypercar
    Lamborghini Sian: Multimillion dollar highly exclusive flagship hypercar
    Ferrari Daytona SP3: Multimillion dollar highly exclusive flagship hypercar
    McLaren Artura: One of the cheapest new McLaren money can buy and barely a limited production. You can probably buy a whole garage of the Artura in every spec imaginable for the price of just one of the last three.

    Yet if LEGO could pull off a hard top convertible roof and cool butterfly doors… and the drivetrain was new and interesting with all the Yamaha gearbox parts (not just a copy paste like the SP3 was of the Sian) it would probably be my personal favorite of the 5… 

    But if they were going down that route I’d definitely prefer the 750s spider over the Artura spider.

  15. Posted

    3 hours ago, Alex Ilea said:

    I do get very frustrated at times, when I run out of a certain pin and I need to pull it out of somewhere from inside the build...

    That’s frustrating just thinking about that… I’ve never actually thought about how important pin management is for a B-model. I’m always just used to them being an endless consumable

  17. Posted

    - Actual mechanics where possible. Sometimes it's too difficult to replicate the exact mechanic, so I come up with a LEGO solution that gets the same end result.

    - 50/50 split. If it looks good but is boring on the inside, or mechanically interesting but looks bad, I don't see the point. It is easy to do one or the other, much more difficult to do both on the same model. When that is achieved that is when I get the most building satisfaction.

    - As minimally as possible to get the desired result. They tend to be great for smaller details but not larger areas.

    - I stick to designing cars, because that is what I like most. But every MOC I do has to have 1 interesting function that the others haven't had yet. I also try picking cars that haven't yet been designed to my liking. Otherwise I might as well just build that persons model.

    - I generally start by roughly building the outside of the model first. I find it easier to then plan how I build the inside and not build the mechanics too big. I always look for real life examples and other peoples models to get inspiration. If I get really stuck I put it to the side and work on a different part of the model. 

    - I work mainly with sheet metal design and fabrication. Solidworks for design, laser cutting and brake press machines for manufacturing. Basic design rules apply for both: strong structures whilst trying to minimise weight and unnecessary parts, model has to look good and function well. Apart from that it is very different. LEGO you stick to existing parts and its a puzzle how to put them together. My day job you are creating the shape of the parts from scratch and because of that it requires a lot more creativity. Especially when there's not much reference material for my day job, you are creating something completely new. Where as my LEGO models are based of real life vehicles so I know exactly what the proportions/shapes etc... need to be.

    - I like the mechanics and movement side of things more than the system bricks. So for MOCs I stick with technic. System sets are more for relaxing and spending time building with my wife.

    - Just start building official sets of models that interest you and go from there.

    3 hours ago, SNIPE said:

    I also avoid 0.5L parts unless they are doubled up to make them an integer unit.

    I also avoid diagonal connections and diagonal beams/other such parts.

    What is the logic behind this? I don't see anything wrong with doing either of those things. Diagonal connections are great for adding strength and sometimes getting bodywork on the right angles. Half stud connections can also be great for positioning bodywork in a more precise position. By not using those techniques you are just robbing yourself of more possibilities.

  18. Posted

    For me…

    CaDA Alfa Romeo F1 is the best looking one, but I couldn’t care less about Alfa Romeo. (And they’ve left the sport now)

    LEGO McLaren F1 is the worst looking one, but McLaren is my favourite team. 

    LEGO Mercedes F1 is the middle ground both as a set and as a team that I like.

    I look forward to seeing if @LukasRSDesign uses the slick tyres on any of his future F1 Mocs

  20. Posted

    8 hours ago, efferman said:

    about the licences: CaDa doesnt allow violations against licenses. For example, i made different body types for their small humvee and asked if they would make a set of the three body types. They said no, because they only have the license for the humvee with the angled roof.

    So be sure, every licensed model on the CaDA website is a real licensed model autorized by the manufacturer of the real thing.

    If they didn’t have the license they probably would’ve been happy to do a set with all 3 body types and release it as a “classic off-road vehicle” or something along those lines. 
    It comes across as a have your cake and eat it too mentality. If we can get the licenses, then great! If not we will just do it anyway and call it something else… I hope CaDA can get to the level of success and integrity that they can do away with all that. It would definitely gain them more respect and also set them even further apart from all the other knock off brands in the industry. 

  21. Posted

    2 hours ago, Timorzelorzworz said:

    Purple isnt a good match here and looks totally ugly together with all blue pins.

    And so does yellow, orange, red, lime, black, white and basically every color except for the shades of blue. But its not like LEGO cares. 

    I personally would love to see a purple car, it would add a nice variety to everything. I can easily change the pins to black myself. 

  24. Posted · Edited by langko

    29 minutes ago, LvdH said:

    The Huayra and Jesko don't have a clutch pedal, right? The Koenigsegg CC850 might be the only car that has both an actual manual with a real clutch pedal and an automatic gearbox.

    No they don’t. But you can choose to shift using either the paddles or the up/down lever in the center. 
    The CC850 has the full manual shifter with a clutch pedal, but no paddle shifters. But the gearbox is amazing with the other features you mentioned. I was watching a YouTube video with Christian (CEO) when it first came out, super interesting.  
     

  25. Posted

    7 hours ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

    Are there actually any cars with both stick shifts and paddle shifters? I've never heard of any. You might (rarely) get a system where you can sequentially bump up and down gears with either a lever or paddles (without a clutch pedal), but I'm not aware of any systems that had both a traditional joystick/clutch pedal manual alongside paddle shifters.

    Yeah the former is out there, the Huayra has that and I think the Jesko has it as well. I’ve always thought it would be cool to design a technic model like that… traditional up/down shifter in the middle and when you use it the paddle shifters move automatically with it.

    I’m not aware of any cars that do the latter either…