anyUser

You should use "setup-ut test" (not calibration) after stage 2 / step 198 to verify that gearbox provides output to all function. This is indicated by the test procedure. However, I found that direction of turning is not always clearly indicated by the app. It is useful to perform the test: I put in the yellow gear driving extension ring in the wrong orientation... There is little use to perform a motor endpoint calibration during stage 2 as (all) the endpoints are not yet defined. Thus motors will rotate forever without getting to the "stop" point. During calibration there could be an issue: The height of the blade is calibrated first. If the blade is fully tilted backwards, e.g. toward the chassis, the blade cannot be rised to its maximum possible height. Therefore the blade should be tilted forward before calibration is started.

My impression on the colour of the 42134 Megalodon is dark azure rather than medium blue. Also from the video review. Anybody else too? Or do I have to check my screen settings?

It is (already) used in the botanical line. I cannot imagine a technic model that featured dark/earth green as colour element. However, it may occur as internal building element as means of colour coding.

I can confirm that the pnematic cylinder is moving a bit when the bar is retracted. The proposed solution works much better but the tube gets squezed by the tow bar in its upper position - respectively prevents from being fully upright. To me it already made a difference when I removed the blue 3L liftarm and kept the tube inside the grey connector. I made another observation: When I push the truck in forward direction the 'cylinders' in the fake engine often block the rotation of the crankshaft. This does not happen if the truck is moved backwards. I have bulid the motor accroding to instructions: (Step 334) End of brown axle is levelled with the 1/2 bushing. This appears to be a similar issue as with the first version of the 42112 cement mixer. Raising the brown axles by (almost) 1/2 L will remove the issue.

I observed similar behaviour of the tow 'bar': - it can easily be moved up and down, e.g. for testing several times in a row - I put on some weight (truick) to find about the lifting capability. After that it took a couple of pumping 'sequences' to raise the bar (I did not use my hand to push it up directly) - I kept the bar for a day in the lower position, again after some weight had been put onto it. It was even more reluctant to change position. Could it be some grease that locks the piston in its extended position?

Another, not-so-proper method is to disable the bluetooth interface of your mobile device. The hub will notice the loss of connection and switch off after some grace period. ( ) If some member of the Lego powered hub developer team is reading this by chance: To me it appears to be nonsense to have to press a switch for 7+ seconds to disable the hub. Just tested with 42131: after (ca.) 5s permanent press of the button on the hub it starts blinking (short pulse white, similar to start). If no lego app is ready to connect it will eventually turn itself off.

Thanks, that is the video I had in mind - but could not find any more.

I don't know if this has been mentioned before and I cannot find (immediately, no full search) any remarks: In Step 122(Book 1) a cardanic transmission is shown that does not look right to me: Is this the correct alingment of joints for optimum transmission? i found this image in another discussion that indicates a different setup: I found this:

Looks good with the old shovel. I fitted the 68.7 x 27 tires by adding 1/2 bush to each axle.

Do excessive colour coding: Purpose: To recognize the used parts within (inside) a model without having to guess. You could break that down to: - One palette for pins (black, grey, red, dark grey, tan, blue) - One coulor set for axles (black, red, grey, yellow, white, green, dark grey (brown, tan), green) - One for connectors - One for beams The first three sets pose constraints one the use of colours within the other ones. But then again: spend more time building than thinking about next colour or searching for it...

No, but it's been a long time ago: 8651 (2005). The buggies from 8363 (2003) seem to have pendular front axles.

I wonder if you can build a (technic) set where each part used has a diffenrent colour. I already failed on 30465:

Schwarz hätt' ich auch greifbar. (Translation: would you like to see it with black axles?)

This would work. I already like this set: The one towards the rear wheel attaches the 3-7 bent beam. About the front one: There is a grey piece (beam or connector) in the middle of the bottom that I could not identify.

Only if you have (all) the proper parts: My guess. Don't have the proper tires or the shovel at hand.

yes - It should come off as one piece (check instruction how it got attached)

The power cable is running through the inside of the crane where are also gears. It could be that the cable got damaged when it worked the last time. (Do not worry, my version is modified: I moved the cabin to the left side) The motor is visible when you remove the left side panel (looking from back of the crane). Its output is running to the white clutch gear at the rear. This is accessible: Try to turn that white gear. Are the red axle joiners also truning / Do you notice considerable friction?

If I may bring this up once more: After a long pause on this truck I believe that I found a pleasing (to me) solution for the improved truck: Features are: - improved steering angle - motor access by cabin tilt - drum will turn in same (loading) direction regardless of direction of drive (*) - truck has been shortened to three axles - pendular suspension of rear axles - fill funnel I did a lot of try - and error construction of the gear setup to drive the drum. I found that the performance of the transmission could only be evaluated when the structure was solid enough to support the (filled) drum for drive tests. Therefore my optimisation cycles took long time. To fit the gear box I used a frame setup that represented previous version: *) This setup has small(est?) number of gears and is performing very well: You have to put in many 1M beams into the drum before you'll notice the drag when pushing the truck. I am using a switched gear box instead of differential to add the manual drum rotation. This is owed to the pickup from the drivetrain. The mechanism to get unidirectional drive has been copied (inspired) by this post: Several pair of gears can be changed to adjust transmission ratio in a) rear wheel drive, b) manual rotation input, c) drum rotation.

@Jim - Many thanks for the pictures with the box: I thought that the Ford would be bigger. But this is approximately the same size (area) of the concrete truck: So I prefer the latter.

Sorry for not being clear: I was referring to the 42126 truck + box.

The box size is similar to 42112 concrete truck. Do you have a picture of the truck together with its box that you can show?

Price? Nowadays: small steering angles = large turn cycles

I can't remember... For my version I replaced the dark grey 3L connector with its 2L version. Also some modifications for the rear buffer bar..

Not all bar can be pushed through. The image shows the max. distance:

Did you try the old 49.6 x 20? I believe they can be swapped 1:1 by a twin 49.5 x 14: