anyUser

Would have been a nice idea to put the pneumatic pump into the generator container and use the air hose to mimic the electric cable... possible bucket:

The excavator mechanics (and size) appears to be more similar to 8294 but in the livery of the Volvo 42053.

Currently this would have to be 42079, 42108, and 42112. All of them weren't perfect in my opinion: 42079 - insufficent lifting height - steering not from top of cabin (as usual) > this set is quite easily mod-able because it has some sort of modular structure. 42108 - The carrier might be stable but the steering and outriggers are really (really) bad. - The superstructure ist light = very basic and clear. It comes with the long version of linear actuator. 42112 - Again the steering angle of the truck is huge. - The drum is turning in the wrong direction when the truck is pushed in backward direction. - The truck is missing a funnel to (re)fill the drum. For these three sets I spent the most time trying to improve the functions of the the stock version. On the other side I consider Tractor 851 as the set with best functions: - sleek steering setup - PTO-like transmission to - even different - attachments - excellent working lifting mechanism of tools done by a lever - good looking (from available parts at that time)

I did a check using a RAL colour fan as reference: (Dark) green brick colour (from set 42157) doesn't match any of the "pure" colours shown there. Closest ones are RAL 6032 (Signal green) respectively RAL 6024 (Traffic green) The basic green on the sticker set of 42157 actually is comprised of thin lines in two different shades of green. I did not take any effort to resolve them. The overall impression again is not a single coulour. It could be best described as RAL 6029 (Mint green) respectively RAL 6001 (Emerald green). Interestingly, John Deere-green also is not a pure colour in RAL scheme. It has been attributed as RAL 6002 (Leaf green) or RAL 6010 (Grass green). [RAL 6032 is also mentioned but I could find that in any second source). Does anyone with any two of 42136, 42157, 42168 can compare if the basic green of the stickers is of the same hue? Remark: I compared colour under artificial light: a) fluorescent lamp b) LED warm tone

Calibration is used by the Lego App to move the boom to pre-set position (e.g. from that extra control panel). Other than that i would prefer a mode that gives me full control of the winches.Why isn't there a low-level algorithm that frequently checks either for rpm or motor current to detect a stall-state? Did anybody else found that the tracks freqently slip on the drive wheel? It seems to be omre often if the crane carries a load or if I am driving small turns.

Got the front axle in with help from R0Sch's digital model. Didn't like the colour: neither Bright Blue nor Dark Azur go well with Vibrant Yellow.

Which of the parts are Bright Blue respectively Dark Azur? Cross block would be new in azure while both rims would be new in blue.

I cannot confirm this for my build of 42163: I replaced by (using https://brickset.com/parts/design-6562) on one side: One track piece less is needed then. By qualitative rating I found that the setup using the red gear has less resistance when pushing the model or moving the track by hand. It also appears to be less 'jerky'.

Got it as a gift at that time, and although I didn't understand studless technic I was pulled out of my dark ages. Therefore it will be always special.

Did you buy this set or re-brick it based on my model? neither / nor: I started building with my parts from the two photos in the first posting earlier today. While I was searching for my track pieces I noted your rendering of your digital model. I have used that to smooth out the inner structure (yellow 3x5 beam) and get a better idea for the slanted motor 'hood'. The bottom layer is and probably remains unfinished: maximum elevation of shield:

There's 8226 from last millenium to compete with.

Probably a nice source of yellow connectors:

I would have never thought checking it until now & (I didn't check the part numbers) These would fit & work: The one with the old/square bottom has more friction than the other one.

I have seen these. I've never had any of these in my hands but I expect them to be rather stiff because of the wax coating.Also, you want the gems on your necklace to appear in an nice curve. Flexibility would be desired for this cord. Has anyone tried fishing rope?

I think the original, thin black cord that has been used for a long time is made of cotton. It's diameter is less than 1 mm. I haven't found something similar yet. A few years ago I bought two spools of braided cord from a vendor / maker: a) 0.4 mm aramid cord in beige (EAN 4046882073011) b) 1.0 mm Dyneema (= polypropylene) in dark silver grey The latter one (b) is too stiff to run properly through typical setup of technic cranes. It somewhat works when you put load on it. The aramid cord (a) works much better but still is a little stiff. You cannot put a on and expect to unreel properly. The big metal hook is much better suited. Images:

OK - you are doing the installation check, not the calibration (which will determine the end-stop on the actuators). I tried to compare with my bulldozer with is fully build build and therefore difficult to observe. For both the "cogwheel" and the "gearbox" test first the gear selection motor is activated. After some (short) time the second motor will also be started. There are some small back-and-forth rotation before it is activated for longer time. From your videos I can recognize: - The gear selector is running longer time than with my setup - There seems to be no action from the second = drive motor You should check: (If the motor is not recognised "found" the app should report at the beginning) - Could it be that the calbles of the two motors for the functions are swapped over at the battery box? - Is it possible that a 'drive' gear is actually connected to the gear selector? I don't have any more advice for now.

(There is a strict size limit for uploading pictures to Eurobricks. However, you can upload bigger photos elsewhere and paste a link into your posting.) I just checked the calibration sequence: first action is on the gear selector. If this can be set to the expected position the drive motor (= constant rotation) is activated. I assume you don't get this far?

Hello, the relative orientation of the orange gear selector and the stop (the orange 2L beam with "o" and "x" hole on the same axle to the right) seem to be OK. Can you verify that the second dark grey shifter that is located "above" / at 90° is in neutral = middle position? First action of the control software is always to activate the gear selecting motor. You should get a short "whining" tone until the end stop is reached. A movement can probably seen if the gearbox is viewed from the angle shown in the photos. I assume that you have verified that the two motors of this gearbox (selector and drive) are connected to theier corresponding ports?

I think It should be feasible to replace the 12:20 gear from step 9 by a 8:24 combination. Then you'll have to leave out the red 1L beams in step 10 o avoid collision with the new gear(s). I would replace the 5.5L axles by 6L ones (check step 73) and use a (full) bushing to adjust the height of the 24 tooth gear above. This would almost have the angular speed (according to my calculation).

Don't have 1x1 bricks with axle hole at hand, used 2x1 with two pin holes instead: I'd say there is (some) strain.

This is the first official crane that uses 4 wheels in a block and tackle. Could it be to give out and pull in the string faster?

Hello Jim, could you clearify: what about wind-up motors? Are these 'allowed' in this contest? Thanks

I disagree: I rate the air tank useful at models where you would trigger more than one pneumatic at the same time. Scooping with the 8459 / 8464 / 8439 front loader is probably the best example. Other would be pneumatic excavators. I have upgraded the Volvo with a single cylinder compressor plus tank. This performs better that the comporesor-only setup of the 42080 Harvester. I agree that two airtanks on the 8462 Tow Truck is too much. One would have been sufficient because the pneumatic functions on that model don't require that much air. Plus they are mostly 'sequential' e.g. without need to operate them at the same time. However, the double tank makes this set a nice parts pack.

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