2GodBDGlory

Eurobricks Dukes
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Posts posted by 2GodBDGlory


  1. Welcome to the first Eurobricks 48-hour MOC challenge!

    After rolling a virtual die to choose between the six options on our list, the official selection for our topic is:

    A Vehicle with at least Three Axles!

    As mentioned before, this challenge will be running from 10:00 PM GMT on March 8, 2024, through to 10:00 PM GMT on March 10 2024, though you're definitely not expected to do a marathon 48-hour build session! You should have some time to live life in there--I know I'll be out of the apartment multiple times over the weekend, not to mention eating and sleeping...

    I hope you'll all also have time to post WIP images and discussion in this thread during (and after) the build period--after all, if there's no community back-and-forth about the challenge, we might as well just be doing this on our own without any event framework.

    Remember, this isn't a contest, so there won't be winners or judging. Because of that, there's not going to be strict rules--just build a MOC like you usually would (with however much or little purism you feel like using), follow the basic topic, and try to get it done in time!

    Anyways, enjoy building!


  2. 6 hours ago, howitzer said:

    Can we have a new, separate topic for the actual challenge where its idea and guidelines are posted, in addition to posting the results?

     

    1 hour ago, aFrInaTi0n said:

    I may want to agree

    Yep, that's a good idea! I can make a new post at the appointed time--unless @Jim thinks it would be better to keep it in here.
    I'll link the new topic into here, though, to make it clear where things are moving to


  3. 1 hour ago, Lixander said:

     

    Also, I didnt understand exactly: did you ordered the buggy motors with the ”crystal connector”, how CaDa names the PU plug?

    If yes, can you tell me if the motors work well with the PU plug connected to a PU hub?, because there is just 1x (negative) review on the official CaDa website on the buggy motors with the PU connector and one of my friends wasnt sure if it should order them or try an adapter from AliExpress.

    I'm pretty sure the CADA plug is completely separate from the PU plug, and is instead a proprietary connection. It is annoying that they'd be entirely different, but I think they felt they had to for copyright reasons


  4. 12 hours ago, letsbuild said:

    I'm very excited - working on cleaning off my desk so I can be ready!

     

    7 hours ago, Aurorasaurus said:

    Agh- I need to do this... I dont want to... I feel like this is a universal problem for lego builders

    update: I did it

    Yep, I was just getting ready to clean off my desk last night when I read @letsbuild's post!

    1 hour ago, Aurorasaurus said:

    Question, will 3d printed parts be allowed?

    I'd say it's fine! It's just for fun anyways


  5. 3 hours ago, 1gor said:

    Ladies and gentleman, I don't know if sticker question is meant to be placed here, but I wonder if is there another set that 2 x 3 cockpit stocker that resembles analog gague like on 42131 set?

    (sticker sheet from 42131 set is currently to expensive for me)

    Are you opposed to just printing a sticker yourself? That's what I'd do if I were you


  6. 8 hours ago, Jurss said:

    I just want to add, that front fork angle looks too vertical for my taste. 

    Otherway great functionality and look. 

    Buy the way, try to switch on flash permanently, especially for black moc inside room.

    Thanks! Using flash could be a pretty easy thing to try next time

    4 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

    Very cool engineering, great functions in there! I didn't think such a huge gearbox could be fit into a motorcycle, together with a clutch system! And the brakes and throttle is a great idea as well, nice mix of pneumatics, electronics and flex system. Even though it's not a really solid thing, I'd really dig something like the engine and the gearbox/throttle/clutch as a standalone model for its educational value of how a complete drivetrain works. Could be a great showpiece model with optional motorization to see it working.

    Thank you! I was pretty happy to get the gearbox in there myself.

    Yeah, a standalone drivetrain setup would be a cool display model! I've done similar stuff in the past in my Drivetrain Model series, but that's typically been models of much more complicated drivetrains, so that wouldn't be as good for education

    Spoiler

     

     

     

    2 hours ago, JunkstyleGio said:

    Here is a simple way to light up your models for movies and photography.

    It takes a little tinkering to get the optimum lighting but you will get better result.

     

    Looks like a nice setup! Being a student at the moment and moving apartments regularly has made it challenging to build out a proper setup for photos, but I surely could do something more with different lights


  7. 7 hours ago, Lixander said:

    Well, I haven`t tested as I dont have the small cylinders, but still I dont think it will hit the wheel hubs, as the steering arms of the front wheel hub is under that pin.

    I just built a quick mockup of that module, and I don't think the wheel will be hitting the cylinder, but I found that the steering hub did hit it and limit the range of motion, so it might be better to flip that hub the other way around, if possible


  8. 1 hour ago, allanp said:

    Impressive, I like all the functions you got in there. 

    Thanks!

     

    1 hour ago, JunkstyleGio said:

    It is an impessive model indeed.

    Very nice functions. The list seems endless!

    Keep up the good work!

    An all black model is very cool, but looking at it is very hard. The use of some contrasting colours (like gold or silver) will let the model pop more!

    Too bad, in both the picture and the movie, the lighting is kind of dark. Maybe an extra lighting point from the front will lift viewabillity up!

    Please see this above mentioned points not as critisism, but as tips.

    Again: very nice!

    Thank you!

    You're right that the all-black look isn't the best for photos; I hadn't really thought about that in the build process.

    That's true that it might be good to think a bit more about lighting too; I guess I usually put a pretty low effort into my photos, and it could be better


  9. After seeing @JoKo's 1:5 Motorcycle engine and frame motorized topic, I realized that I've had my BMW M1000 RR parts sitting around for way too long, without ever really making any large-scale motorcycles with them, so I started thinking about what I could build!

    I didn't really want to do a sport bike, because they looked all nasty and angly, such that they'd be challenging to model, so I looked for more of a classic American style. Looking for something that epitomizes that idea led me to the Harley-Davidson Fat Boy, which turned out to be a fortuitous choice, since my model was quite wide at 16 studs, and this motorcycle is known for its width!

    Anyways, I decided that I'd rather focus on a cool look and a simple build process rather than modeling the original motorcycle super closely, so the end result is probably more of a custom bike, but I'm happy with the way it looks!

    800x600.jpg

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    Functions:

    1. Full suspension
    2. Steering
    3. Independent front and rear pneumatic disc brakes
    4. Pneumatic clutch
    5. Realistic 6-speed sequential transmission
    6. Large-scale V-twin engine with moving valves, driven by a PF L-motor (Also a small pneumatic compressor attached to that motor)
    7. Handlebar throttle control for that PF L-motor with a PF rechargeable battery box

    Suspension:

    Suspension was super simple in the front, just using the standard fork parts. The rear was also pretty simple, and just used two small, soft shocks under the rear seat. I felt that it all worked nicely!

    Spoiler

    640x480.jpg

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    Steering:

    This is dead-simple on a motorcycle! Nothing really to note here, except that all the pneumatic tubes running up to it made it spring back to the center

    Brakes:

    I used one small pneumatic cylinder per wheel, which would rotate a 2x3 panel extender to pinch the disc between two rubber axle joiners. They weren't all that strong, but it was nice to build a brake system that actually pinched the rotor on both sides for once! The front brake was controlled by a pneumatic valve on the handlebars, while the rear was controlled by a foot pedal, just like a real motorcycle

    Spoiler

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    Clutch:

    The clutch was controlled by another pneumatic valve on the handlebars, and worked using a small pneumatic cylinder, assisted by rubber bands, to press a 28T gear on a pivoting beam against an old 30mm tire. The 28T gear then meshed with a 20T gear to send drive to the gearbox. Unfortunately, this system wasn't designed well enough to actually send drive to the rear wheel under most circumstances, as shown in the video. Friction-based Lego clutches are seriously hard to make!

    Spoiler

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    6-Speed Transmission:

    For this model, I really wanted to take advantage of new gearbox parts to make a realistic 6-speed transmission based on just two shafts, and I managed to succeed by putting two driving rings on one shaft, and the third one on the second shaft. The gear choices used were 8:24, 12:20, 14:20, 16:16, 20:12, and 24:8. You'll notice I'm using the "forbidden" 14T gear in here to sneak in a sixth speed that you couldn't get with only modern parts, and also that there's a very large 9X difference in speed between first and sixth! Still, I was happy to get a realistic gearbox construction with the right number of gears, and the new 2L driving rings allowed me to get the gearbox just skinny enough to work.

    The more challenging part was shifting! The logic of the Yamaha shifters I was using is super complicated to figure out, but after a bunch of thinking I decided it was impossible to have it shift in order with the driving rings spread over shafts like I had. I then realized, though, that I could gear up the shifting mechanism to cause the shift rings to rotate three positions (135 degrees) for each press of the stepper, allowing me to shift from one side of a driving ring right to the other side of that ring, just like I needed. Because I was gearing up, though, it would shift through two other positions first, so it worked much better with at least a little rotation going on during shifts; and the shift positions were a little imprecise.

    I used essentially the same stepper mechanism used in the Yamaha set, and it worked quite satisfactorily! It was set up in a relatively reasonable spot for foot operation, like a real bike.

    Spoiler

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    Engine:

    At 1:5 scale, I figured it would make sense to follow the example of @JoKo's bike and make a larger scale engine, with a diameter of three studs. I made it a V-twin design, as is typical for Harleys, and then started thinking about how to run some kind of valvetrain. At first I tried to make a pushrod valve setup like the original motorcycle, but I didn't think I could make it fit, or make it strong, so I ended up going to a much more basic SOHC chain-driven design. I used the new LBG 3L pins with springs over them as valves, which worked fairly nicely. It was fun to finally build something with a larger, more detailed engine! There was also a small pneumatic compressor geared to the engine, that would in principle allow for autonomous operation of the pneumatic functions. I'm too lazy to wait for something like that to pressurize, though, so I also included an old pneumatic distribution block part, which I used for its one-way valve, which allowed me to have a quick-disconnect port for an external manual pump. There was also a pneumatic air tank tucked in the front of the frame to allow for better operation of the functions, but because the white color would have stuck out horribly in the open frame, I threw some black electrical tape over it to make it blend in better.

    Spoiler

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    Throttle:

    I was quite happy to be able to include a realistic twist throttle on the handlebars! This pulled a long flex cable (made of 1.75mm 3D printer filament and cut to roughly the length of the longest such cable Lego ever manufactured), which pulled a linkage on my PF rechargeable battery box to change the speed of the PF L motor that was running the engine. It was quite a satisfying feature to include!

    Spoiler

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    Overall, I thought this was quite an interesting model to build, and quite different from most of my previous models! It's always interesting to take on a new type of model, especially when it provides opportunity to include some interesting new features!

    You can see more images at: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/harley-davidson-fat-boy

     


  10. 1 hour ago, sp1984 said:

    Hello

    question about linear actuators.

    Does CADA technic linear actuator is compatible with Lego Technic?

    Is it well designed and smooth operation?

    Found one here:

    https://decadastore.com/products/cada-10-15m-middle-hydraulic-cylinder-jv9033

    it is pretty cheap (1 euro per one piece) so I am afraid that quality maybe rather low...

    Also does that shop seem legit?

    Regards

     

    I can't speak from experience, but CADA sets, including ones with linear actuators, seem to be well regarded, so I'd assume they work alright! It does look like the official store, so it should be legit. I'm now eyeing up their XL linear actuators, since I've never been able to justify buying the Lego ones...

    Maybe someone else can give you some more specific advice


  11. I'm excited for next weekend to start this challenge!

    I'm just realizing that I hadn't thought about how daylight savings time in certain countries might affect the times, so it's possible that the times I put in the list a few posts up could be off by an hour.

    GMT will be the standard!

    One other thing I just realized is that daylight savings time here actually ends next weekend, so we'll be losing an hour Saturday night. Because of that, people in locales coming on to daylight savings time might have some confusion about specific hours, but just refer to whatever the GMT standard is for clarification


  12. Interesting design, especially with the rubber pieces to step the "steps"! I worry a little bit about that 5L axle through the rubber parts rotating inside them if too much force is put on the rubber band, but it's hard to say.

    Also, the 3L pin with towball you have won't work in real life, because the towball can't fit through a pinhole. However, that could be easily replaced with a 2L pin plus a towball with bar, or just a 3L pin with axlehole.

    I'd give it a test build, but I don't have any of the offset knob wheels yet...


  13. 1 hour ago, R0Sch said:

    Not really. Just double the width of the #3 connector so alternates between black and grey knob gear. The rest should work the same way. Maybe I'll do a quick mock-up in Studio later on.

    Hmm, maybe, but it seems like the tooth profile would be different enough that some other things would need to change. For one, I think the part that springs to lock things into position wouldn't work with the split part, since it would only be engaging with one knob wheel. Also, you might need to adjust the lengths of the arms (where those #3 connectors are) to engage with different size teeth.

    It could be worth looking into, though!


  14. 28 minutes ago, allanp said:

    The Arocs is objectively the best set ever IMHO because of its new parts and instead of settling for just a basic chassis they gave it full live axle suspension, more authentic steering linkage and double rear wheels. Except for the LA used to lift the bed, it was as close to "build for real" as you could get at the time, meaning that it feels like building a real truck in miniature rather than just an expensive toy.

    Yeah, like you point out, it managed to have both supercar-style functions like suspension, four driven wheels, and a full-size piston engine, but also heavy-equipment-style functions like the pneumatics, outriggers, and bed!

    It's a great mix