Innocity

Eurobricks Vassals
  • Content Count

    59
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Innocity

  1. Akiyuki uploaded a new GBC module video. I'm glad he's back with the GBC module.
  2. Akiyuki explained the driving principle of this module in the following words: "It is a device that moves the arm only when the ball comes in. When the ball enters the hole, the force to reciprocate the piston is lost, so the arm is lifted. " He also said. At first, there was no partition between each lane, and it was more fun because the ball moved freely. However, the stopper did not work well, so it changed to its current shape. The principle is not easily understood, but it is not difficult to build and run this module. The total number of parts is 1068pcs, but the size is small and its size is similar to that of Catch and Release. GBC layout appearance: 2013
  3. This module is called the Step Module because the balls go up the stairs. It consists of 3 parts: Spiral Lift unit, Step unit, Output hopper unit In V1, which is a prototype, chains are used, but in V2, counter weights and output hoppers are added without using chains. Akiyuki mainly used transparent colored bricks in this module. He said that as he bought a lot of lego technic sets, the transparent Technic Engine Cylinders stocked up. Perhaps that is why he built Spiral Lift using Technic beams 15L(Trans-Clear) and cylinder bricks(Trans-light blue). Blackbird&Jesuskyr provided and released building instructions using technic beams 15L(Black) and cylinder bricks(Dark Bluish Gray), which are more easy to obtain. Personally, I preferred the clear color of the original, so even though it costs a lot, I made it like the original. It's very difficult to get ultra-rare black technic pins instead of the common blue technic pins(43093). PART 2850a: Technic Engine Cylinder with Side Slots-Trans-Clear As the rod pushes the ball up, the stair part splits from side to side and the ball reaches the next stair. If the timing is not right, the ball will jam. And when the balls fall on the output hopper, it comes down on the slope of the yellow side, but it is interesting to slide down zigzag on the slope of the black side. The technic frame under the input hopper and output hopper has been reinforced compared to the original. In one of them, the technic beam is not firmly fixed. This module doesn't have a tricky timing setup. When the ball reaches the first step, if you set the timing for the rod to push the ball up, it runs smoothly. Even if you don't do that, there is no problem with running it. At speeds 5 and 6, this module sometimes fails to push the ball up at once due to its high speed. This module runs best at speed 4. I made the output hopper assembly process fun and not boring. The yellow arrow is a structure that is inserted between the bricks without being joined by a stud. This module is huge, and the clear color of the module is brilliant enough. GBC layout appearance : 2012
  4. It's a GBC module with six birds pecking balls. Even without timing setup, there is no problem with running this module. It just changes the order in which the birds peck the balls. Original movement sequence: Black→Red→Pearl Light Gray→Yellow→Blue→Lime→Black...... Repeated in sequence. Shaft angle: 0°→180°→60°→240°→120°→300° Sequence assembly One of the six heads is Pearl Light Gray bricks, not Light Bluish Gray bricks. Of course, you can save money by replacing them with LBG bricks. You may feel despair in the process of inserting the six heads if you assemble as directed in the building instructions. Because you have to force them to be crumpled. When you assemble technic beams, gears and axles, it's good to insert them in advance. Bricks reinforcement is required in the lower frame of the output box. This is because the bricks are separated when carrying this module. Bird's tongue: Blackbird used 6538b bricks, Akiyuki used 59443 bricks Blackbird's output hopper is 6 studs narrower than Akiyuki's, and the output ramp is also 2 studs narrower, with a slightly different design. Each of the six heads peck on 2X2 plates of the same color as the head. And they arch the neck backwards and push the ball with their tongue. After a lot of time, an issue occurred in my module: Some heads do not reach exactly where the ball lies, so the heads push it away. I replaced the related bricks with new ones, but it does not work correctly at high speed. Perhaps it is due to the slight deformation and warping of certain bricks while the module has been stopped for a long time. GBC layout appearance :2013, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
  5. I uploaded a video of Zig-zag Lift. I hope you enjoy it.
  6. This is not a GBC module, but was designed by GBC master Akiyuki. I completed this a long time ago, but I uploaded a running video of it. Thank you for watching. You can purchase its building instructions here. (https://akiyuki.jp/works/1767) You can download my Falcon io file(stud.io) for free here. (https://bricksafe.com/pages/ajhstyle/micro-falcon-)
  7. FernandoQ reverse engineered it, provided and released the instructions. I hope you enjoy watching it. Special thanks to FernandoQ.
  8. I took this module out of the warehouse after a long time and ran it. The movement is not smooth, but the running is not bad. Thank you.
  9. It has a bit tricky assembly process (the process of installing the main wheel) and timing setup. But it is a very great and reliable module, so I recommend building it. Thank you~
  10. It is very difficult to assemble the main rotary shaft of Rainbow Stepper. This module requires up to 1/2 stud length of the technic axles, and I'm afraid that if this module is running for a long time, the axles of this module will be seperated. Your efforts and achievements are great. Are you going to create and publish a modified invisible lift instruction? If so, someone will be able to compare The Rebricker's invisible lift and your invisible lift.
  11. Without it, there's no problem with the running of the module, so it won't be added to his instructions. It might be possible if we ask him to add it.
  12. I saw pictures posted on his blog (https://akiyuki.jp/en/works/1423) and found that the input bin was different. And based on those two photos, I made a yellow version of the catch and spin robots. I have a question. My 'catch and spin robots' work well. But do you have a reason to try its mods and improvements?
  13. There are two versions of Akiyuki's Catch and Spin Robots. One is a red robot and yellow robot in the outer frame of DBG(Dark Bluish Gray) color, and the other is a black robot and LBG(Light Bluish Gray) robot in the outer frame of yellow color. In addition to the different colors of the Outer Frame and Robots, the size and design of the inbox is different. Akiyuki didn't release the yellow version of the instruction, but it shouldn't be that hard because it's just a change to the inbox design. Rather, it is quite difficult to get some kind of yellow bricks. So Akiyuki may not have released a yellow version of the instruction. To build it, you also need some Technic connector (32291), Technic connector (32557), Technic connector (41678), and yellow Technic axles (including 6553). It requires fine tuning and I think it's a reliable module if it's done well.
  14. Thank you for your detailed explanation. I planned to buy eight Lego pneumatic pumps to build a compressor, but I think it would be cheaper and more useful to buy a small air brush compressor.
  15. The timing setting is very touchy because this module is affected by many factors. -Turntable rotation must be smooth without friction. -The lever of the pneumatic valve should move smoothly without friction. -The distance between the two technic connector (32039) that activates the lever should be correct. -Gear lacks and Gears must be in the correct phase. It's been a while since I pulled out this module and ran it. When using the Pneumatic hand pump (74720) it was not bad. But when using the PF M motor, it was too slow, the rotation of 180 degrees was not complete, and the module stopped running due to incorrect movement. Perhaps I think that two pneumatic pumps (99798) supply a small amount of air. Akiyuki said it works stably when a lot of air is supplied, but it doesn't work well when it is supplied little by little. I tried to solve this problem using an air tank (75974) but nothing changed. So I added two pneumatic pumps and used a total of four pneumatic pumps. And I used L motors instead of M motors to pump them quickly and smoothly. However, this is less than the amount of air supplied by the pneumatic hand pump and it is also not running smoothly. If a large pneumatic pump can be operated using a PF motor, this problem can be solved. But it may be difficult to mount it inside the module.
  16. The movement of this module is simple, it's tricky to make it right.
  17. This module is a compact GBC module with 711pcs. There is no timing setup. That's why this module is suitable for beginners.
  18. The trigger of this module is not reliable, so it is not suitable for long running GBC layout. This module only appears in Akiyuki's GBC 2012 Layout, and after that we can't see it because of the reliability of running this module.It's been a long time since I've taken these modules out and running them, so please understand that the balls are falling a lot.
  19. Courbet's instructions showed the gears' phase well, I could build it without much difficulty. Special thanks to Courbet.
  20. I checked the structure of the module and you are right. I remember running for backwards for a while, but it might have been running for a while and then stopped.
  21. It doesn't seem necessary. Perhaps 'Therebricker' was trying to fill the space with clutch gear to prevent the gears from slipping on the Axle. This module works with both reverse and forward spin of the motor, but the running is not the same. So it appears to have used a red ratchet and Akiyuki seems to have tried to set the rule by running his modules by turning the 9V regulator's dial clockwise.
  22. I returned the first gear to its original position and tried for correct running. In theory, receiving a falling ball from the spiral lift was no problem, but if the balls falling at the spiral lift were not at the same speed, the first cup would not receive the ball. So I decided to modify the spiral lift part and lifted up the 'spiral lift body' a little. As a result it showed correct running. I don't know if it is related to not using macaroni tile (27925), 2x2 round tile (15535). And I think 'cup to cup' will certainly work well at low speeds than at high speeds.
  23. If the balls falling from the spiral lift fall a little earlier or the first cup moves a little further down, I think my module will show perfect running. Do your modules show perfect running at the fastest speeds?