Eurobricks Vassals
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Innocity

Spam Prevention

  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. It is very difficult to assemble the main rotary shaft of Rainbow Stepper. This module requires up to 1/2 stud length of the technic axles, and I'm afraid that if this module is running for a long time, the axles of this module will be seperated. Your efforts and achievements are great. Are you going to create and publish a modified invisible lift instruction? If so, someone will be able to compare The Rebricker's invisible lift and your invisible lift.
  2. Without it, there's no problem with the running of the module, so it won't be added to his instructions. It might be possible if we ask him to add it.
  3. I saw pictures posted on his blog ( and found that the input bin was different. And based on those two photos, I made a yellow version of the catch and spin robots. I have a question. My 'catch and spin robots' work well. But do you have a reason to try its mods and improvements?
  4. There are two versions of Akiyuki's Catch and Spin Robots. One is a red robot and yellow robot in the outer frame of DBG(Dark Bluish Gray) color, and the other is a black robot and LBG(Light Bluish Gray) robot in the outer frame of yellow color. In addition to the different colors of the Outer Frame and Robots, the size and design of the inbox is different. Akiyuki didn't release the yellow version of the instruction, but it shouldn't be that hard because it's just a change to the inbox design. Rather, it is quite difficult to get some kind of yellow bricks. So Akiyuki may not have released a yellow version of the instruction. To build it, you also need some Technic connector (32291), Technic connector (32557), Technic connector (41678), and yellow Technic axles (including 6553). It requires fine tuning and I think it's a reliable module if it's done well.
  5. Thank you for your detailed explanation. I planned to buy eight Lego pneumatic pumps to build a compressor, but I think it would be cheaper and more useful to buy a small air brush compressor.
  6. The timing setting is very touchy because this module is affected by many factors. -Turntable rotation must be smooth without friction. -The lever of the pneumatic valve should move smoothly without friction. -The distance between the two technic connector (32039) that activates the lever should be correct. -Gear lacks and Gears must be in the correct phase. It's been a while since I pulled out this module and ran it. When using the Pneumatic hand pump (74720) it was not bad. But when using the PF M motor, it was too slow, the rotation of 180 degrees was not complete, and the module stopped running due to incorrect movement. Perhaps I think that two pneumatic pumps (99798) supply a small amount of air. Akiyuki said it works stably when a lot of air is supplied, but it doesn't work well when it is supplied little by little. I tried to solve this problem using an air tank (75974) but nothing changed. So I added two pneumatic pumps and used a total of four pneumatic pumps. And I used L motors instead of M motors to pump them quickly and smoothly. However, this is less than the amount of air supplied by the pneumatic hand pump and it is also not running smoothly. If a large pneumatic pump can be operated using a PF motor, this problem can be solved. But it may be difficult to mount it inside the module.
  7. The movement of this module is simple, it's tricky to make it right.
  8. This module is a compact GBC module with 711pcs. There is no timing setup. That's why this module is suitable for beginners.
  9. The trigger of this module is not reliable, so it is not suitable for long running GBC layout. This module only appears in Akiyuki's GBC 2012 Layout, and after that we can't see it because of the reliability of running this module.It's been a long time since I've taken these modules out and running them, so please understand that the balls are falling a lot.
  10. Courbet's instructions showed the gears' phase well, I could build it without much difficulty. Special thanks to Courbet.
  11. I checked the structure of the module and you are right. I remember running for backwards for a while, but it might have been running for a while and then stopped.
  12. It doesn't seem necessary. Perhaps 'Therebricker' was trying to fill the space with clutch gear to prevent the gears from slipping on the Axle. This module works with both reverse and forward spin of the motor, but the running is not the same. So it appears to have used a red ratchet and Akiyuki seems to have tried to set the rule by running his modules by turning the 9V regulator's dial clockwise.
  13. I returned the first gear to its original position and tried for correct running. In theory, receiving a falling ball from the spiral lift was no problem, but if the balls falling at the spiral lift were not at the same speed, the first cup would not receive the ball. So I decided to modify the spiral lift part and lifted up the 'spiral lift body' a little. As a result it showed correct running. I don't know if it is related to not using macaroni tile (27925), 2x2 round tile (15535). And I think 'cup to cup' will certainly work well at low speeds than at high speeds.
  14. If the balls falling from the spiral lift fall a little earlier or the first cup moves a little further down, I think my module will show perfect running. Do your modules show perfect running at the fastest speeds?