Cleaning 12v rails conductors (not the metal)

[cozzie4d]

Hi all,

I've bought a bunch of rails, including the middle conductors, but they look awfull. I know how to the clean the conducting part (alcohol - cotton wool), but ideally I want to try and clean the whole parts/ conductors.

Any ideas on how to do that, without 'harming' the parts? I guess alcohol or gasoline is not good for the lego plastic part of the conductors.

Any input is appreciated.

[Toastie]

10 hours ago, cozzie4d said:

I want to try and clean the whole parts/ conductors.

Welcome to EB!

That "whole" refers to the "plastic" of these parts, correct?

Best,
Thorsten

[BillytheKid]

Dirt can be cleaned with a soap and water (Dreft-sopje). Discolored parts, well grey is tricky with hydrogen peroxide.

 

I use cleaing petrol (wasbenzine) for cleaning the metal part. Why people always use alcohol for it..........?

[cozzie4d]

Thanks both. Indeed the plastic. I used semi warm water (sopje dreft) and a sponge, rough side for the metal for 1st dirt removal. Afterwards properly dried them with cloth, to prevent rust. Looking pretty good now, will use alcohol and cloth for proper conducting 

[Toastie]

6 hours ago, cozzie4d said:

Looking pretty good now, will use alcohol and cloth for proper conducting

Very nice that this worked out.

Now, I have said that here and there on EB - and I don't want to be regarded as wise-***. However, this may actually do a better job conduction-wise, than ethanol or IPA can do: They both remove greasy stuff, as does soap in any incarnation. There are differences; when you apply "plastic cleaner detergent" they will perform more powerful. In removing anything greasy. 

Conduction-wise, you want to get rid of oxides, sitting on the metal rail, that don't care about any kind of soap at all. Sure, removing greasy stuff will help. And if that is the sole layer affecting any conduction issues: Job done. Now, if there is more (there is always more ), then try metal oxide removal agents. WD40 is such a formulation, but it bites into the plastic as well, plus it adds residue, you simply don't want to have.

There are many formulations used in electronics for doing just that: Remove oxide layers from metal, be it copper, or in case of 9V rails, nickel (alloys). One product that I use quite successfully, not only on 9V rails, but many vintage electronics projects is "Kontakt-60" spray. I am sure, there are many other products doing the exact same. Just to give you a hint (and yes, I am not affiliated with this company, not at all): https://www.reichelt.de/de/en/contact-60-100-ml-oxide-removing-contact-cleaner-kontakt-2010-p9462.html?PROVID=2788&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzZmwBhD8ARIsAH4v1gU4Xb17IYrV9eIIqsGUDuvtqJf5gShwveDUt3liQWwnMU7YFokCOEMaAi8BEALw_wcB&&r=1

It simply works.

All the best,
Thorsten

[dr_spock]

The safety data sheet for Kontakt-60 says it contains IPA as one of the ingredients.

[Toastie]

8 hours ago, dr_spock said:

Kontakt-60 says it contains IPA

Yes: To get to the metal, the greasy stuff needs to go first. IPA is for that job; otherwise, the much more polar metal oxide removing ingredients can't do their job, as grease would not let them penetrate to the "problem".

When you have cleaned the rails with good soap, a wash/rub with IPA is surely helping in removing remains of grease and such. I generally use this stuff for work on vintage plastic material as a first step; there is not a bit of non-polar stuff remaining on the surfaces. Also, your fingers/hands will be totally degreased , so it is better to wear some (cheap) gloves.

Best,
Thorsten