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That actually looks pretty solid! Do you have an LXF? 
I think i could use something similar like that and perhaps modify it. 

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No lxf file, unfortunately, and no other readily available individual pics (I may have some on my hard drive somewhere, though - I'll look for them). If you check out the WIP folder - please don't laugh at my pathetic design failures! - pics 13, 14, 20 and 21 should help figure out the design.

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Posted (edited)

I can't figure out a stronger way to build the front steering axle so i've used this:

CE2KnAtl.png

Problem with it is those ball joint pieces popping off from the connector bit. I wonder if i could get away with changing those ball cup arms into 3 long beams and adding those connector bits. 
I wonder how i could get the middle part connected to those connectors to sturdy it up. 

 

EDIT:
Hmm i think adding a 5 long beam to those ball cup ends should sturdy it enough so the studs don't pop loose. 

Edited by Mechbuilds

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Q3KA3PTl.png

This is my front axle design.

Just need to figure out how to brace the turn tables + servo so it's sturdy enough and also figure out a way to mount the springs. 
I think i could get away with just one spring per side with a beam that lets the spring lengthen when the other side is compressed.

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If you put servo one stud lower, can you connect it to upper holes on turntable and use dogbones to connect turntable to axle

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Posted (edited)

Front axle done:

s1AbO4Ll.png
Lowering the servo by one stud would be impossible. It's already against the H frame. 

Edited by Mechbuilds

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I see... Perhaps you can use dogbones (with this part ) to connect upper turntable holes with 5 x 11 frame...

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Posted (edited)
10 minutes ago, I_Igor said:

I see... Perhaps you can use dogbones (with this part ) to connect upper turntable holes with 5 x 11 frame...

Well it's not too late to convert this into a regular axle by using the ball cup fork part and just connect the front end with springs. 
s-l300.jpg
With double yellow springs, it could be stiff enough to handle the weight. 
I can give you the LDD if you want to take a crack at it. 

LINK: Super awesome pendular heavy duty axle only for winners.

I'd personally like the normal axle more than a pendular one but i'm terrible at making axles. 



EDIT:
The issues with the current setup is: 
- Issue with the servo wire touching the chassis
- Not great ground clearance with the larger turn table at the back
- Axle is very long and tall


If a normal axle can be made the pros would be:
-better ground clearance
-Shorter axle if servo can be mounted in the chassis instead. 
-Shorter nose due to no turntable at the front. 
-Better suspension, up and down and left and right. 

That's why i'm not satisfied with the current setup but it does work. It's just not that great. 

Edited by Mechbuilds

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Posted (edited)

How about something like this? You can replace the planetary hubs with portal axles but then you'll have to redesign it to fit the same trackwidth. As for the 9.5L shocks, you can replace them with regular ones and position them further up - or just make some custom shocks with springs from your local DIY.

Edited by suffocation

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13 hours ago, suffocation said:

How about something like this? You can replace the planetary hubs with portal axles but then you'll have to redesign it to fit the same trackwidth. As for the 9.5L shocks, you can replace them with regular ones and position them further up - or just make some custom shocks with springs from your local DIY.

this one is better :thumbup:

( @Mechbuilds can integrate portal hubs with it )

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It will be tough because of the steering geometry. The gear rack part moves inside by half a stud when the steer is at full lock. This will interfere with the drive gear. I will need to figure out a solid way to do it. 
I think i could get away with making the axle higher if it's shorter. Perhaps even add a second gearbox in the axle itself. 

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Here is the simple elegant way of attaching the ball cup part higher so i can mount the axle better:

lZyXlc4l.png

Short and stubby! But the next issue is the servo. 
I can't winden the axle from this. Also i can't put the servo any lower or it will interfere with the diff. 

Any ideas how to rework the steering? 

And it's not just putting a beam and shorter gear rack on because the whole gear rack will move half a stud inward when turning. 
So it would interfere with the 3 long beam that's there for structural integrity. 

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I'm working on a truck. 

Here is my current state:

VOzGsSyl.jpg

TzFlVXTl.jpg

FhYzP3Cl.jpg


To do:

-Front axle
-Rear axle(s) (i really want to make a second rear axle you can drop down.)
-Mount buwizz somewhere.
-Finish cabin.
-Build rails for cargo solutions. 


Thoughts?

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Current project: 

Hearse with a madmax twist. 

Ekch3atl.jpg

It has a spice of the graverobber hearse for the windshield but then i'm using the buildstyle of the charger 42111 for the bodywork.. I just need to get the side panels right and somekind of chassis. 
Still haven't decided if i want to go with two XL motors and just go for speed to drift this thing, or should i go with one XL motor and just put a gearbox and torque it up, lift the rear end and have somewhat offroad-capability. 


Any tips are welcome. Trying to learn how to make bodywork. 
I'll probably change the bonnet design but the windshield, rollcage and roof is pretty much how i want it to be. 

Edited by Mechbuilds

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I've been using the chargers bodywork to get started.. 

AyJLAB3l.jpg
5DngcQOl.jpg

I'll probably ditch the frame underneath and make a different chassis. 
Still thinking should i use smaller headlights that are sinken inside the bodywork or this style that the headlights are protruding out like in the image.. 

Well this is my current progress after a lot of brainstorming.. 

I think i kinda wanna go with the madmax style hearse that can drift. 

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Heaps of progress made:

v9FG7cxl.jpg
vngNU6Cl.jpg
AYHY3eRl.jpg
N4PWfo6l.jpg


The rear end looks good finally. 
Now i need to finish up the front end. 
Then completely gut the frame under the bodywork and build an RC chassis. 

I wonder if i should bother making a hood for the front end or do it 42111 style where you have the engine in the open. 

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3i5UNo5l.jpg
751JlBkl.jpg

The hearse continues. 
I'm quite happy how the front grille turned out.. Now i need to make a bumper for this. 



At first i was trying to make this a drifting hearse. But then i acquired some buggy motors and drag slicks and wondered if i should go make this a drag hearse instead. 
After fitting the double buggy motor axle under this bodywork, it was kind of sluggish to start accelerating but decently fast once you got going.. 

Then i started to think about making this a crawler herase.. Kind of like this.
It could also be made with tank tracks. But i think the crawler would be the best choice to go with. 


Currently it has these features:
-Roll cage
-Forward opening hood
-Sideways opening trunk. 
-Openable doors
-All doors have a stud that locks them. The hood has a hood pin that you pull out. 

I'm aiming for these features to come:
-Full interior
-Coffin at the back
-4x4 crawling axles. 
-Fake engine
-Front bumper with winch possibly. (Winch could be mounted in the front mask which would be pretty cool.)



Anybody following this thread? I haven't got this close making an actual good moc before. 

Edited by Mechbuilds

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8fC4XYul.jpg

Something big... Something powerful. 

The suspension is so smooth and nice. But i dislike the axles. Might redesign them.. 
If i make them 2 studs narrower, the claas tyre will collide with the chassis. 
I wonder if rough terrain crane tyres would fit better for this moc.. 

Edited by Mechbuilds

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Looking good so far.

Couple of thoughts:

Not sure about an IL8 engine,

Show us some more of those axles, what don't you like? Maybe have a look in lpepower's up Unimog suspension video for inspiration? Hard to tell what's going on, so if it would be relevant.

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