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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

I now tested everything again and built a small testing rig, to make sure that it's nothing wrong with my RC Box. But same as before, the servo still only turns all the way to the left or to the right, no proportional steering possible. I used an 2S lipo to make sure that I'm not overvolting my servo.

Hello,

When Lego-Servo is working with Lego-IR-Rempte, then PWM of the IR-Remote should be OK

In an Youtube-Video (Time-Stamp 0:45) you can find Measured this PWM.
There are 3,5 sections of 250us resulting in a PWM-Period of 875us that is about 1,14kHz

When you System is using higher Frequency, then the Servo has Problems getting the right %-Value


Jo

Edited by BrickTronic
Posted
9 hours ago, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

 Buwizz does not output an PWM Signal, it outputs proportional voltage.

5 hours ago, BrickTronic said:

There are 3,5 sections of 250us resulting in a PWM-Period of 875us that is about 1,14kHz

When you System is using higher Frequency, then the Servo has Problems getting the right %-Value

These are interesting findings, good to know. So I guess the problem could be that the ESC uses a different PWM frequency than the servo needs. But alternatively it can be tricked by using proportional voltage.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hello technic friends,

I have some interesting new information about the RC Box. After I tested some different electronic speed controllers, I was able to get proportional servo control to work properly. So There will be an improved or fully working Version of the 10 Ch RC Box very soon, As well as the versions with different channel amounts.

 

  • 8 months later...
Posted (edited)

Hello Guys,

after 6 months without a single post, I want to share with you the progress I made on the RC Box. I now have 10+2 channels in the same box size as before. 10 normal Power functions ports (2 with finally working servo support) and 4 dual channels. Additionally there are two PWM channels which can be used to hook up non power functions components such as Geekservos, lighting modules (WIP) and Brushless motors (WIP) bringing the maximum motor count to twelve.

I made a new video which shows everything:

Best Regards 

Adrian

Edited by MisterCreators Custom MOCs
Posted

Really awesome progress and I can see that it is really well build thing! I would love to try it out, but as you are planning further improvements, I guess we need to wait patiently. :D

I want to ask some questions, If I may:
1. Is geek-servo not fully rotating +/- 90 degree in your case, or were you not fully rotating the knob during testing in your video?
2. I guess you will try to sell your product in the future. How are you planning to distribute it with people, for example that have different transmitters and/or receivers? Would it be all in one package (RC box with receiver plus transmitter that you recommend)?
3. Are you considering building RC box with battery inside, so everything will be in one place (of course it will cover bigger space, something like 7x9x4 stud - similar to Lego Powered UP hub)?

Once again, great work and keep us posted! :)

Posted
11 hours ago, Krxlion said:

2. I guess you will try to sell your product in the future. How are you planning to distribute it with people, for example that have different transmitters and/or receivers? Would it be all in one package (RC box with receiver plus transmitter that you recommend)?
3. Are you considering building RC box with battery inside, so everything will be in one place (of course it will cover bigger space, something like 7x9x4 stud - similar to Lego Powered UP hub)?

If you sell with battery included, you will need to have a charger with balancer as well.. As not everyone has a LiPo charger.

And have good disclaimers to prevent wrong use of the battery's, to prevent claims if they catch fire or whatever. LiPo's are fun, but dangerous. Certainly if they will be external (unprotected) and someone uses it in a fast racing car and crashes it. Some Lego part piercing a cell is insta melted Lego + ... 

I guess best option would be just the RX module, and have a TX+RX in one set but no battery included. Unless the LiPo's are hardcase, then the risk is significant lower to pierce it, but still a charger+balancer is needed.

 

@OP:

Very nice RX module you have made with a lot of cool tricks so use fewer top ports. Love the 54th attempt :D

Posted

Hello Guys,

thank you very much for the positive Feedback :)

16 hours ago, Krxlion said:

 I would love to try it out, but as you are planning further improvements, I guess we need to wait patiently. :D

Originally I planned to send out the first few test samples last year, but due to some tiny errors and assembling difficulties it had to delay that and only finished one Box for the video. I have to make some tiny adjustments and reorder the PCBs until I'm ready to sell the Handmade batches. But I really hope, that it won't take long. I'm going to be really busy in January, but I'm confident that I can start selling afterward. If you are really interested, just e-mail me at info@mistercreator.de.

The planned things like lighting Modules and Brushless Modules are independent of the Box and can be added separately if needed.

16 hours ago, Krxlion said:

1. Is geek-servo not fully rotating +/- 90 degree in your case, or were you not fully rotating the knob during testing in your video?

Yes, the Servo did not rotate full 90 degrees, but I think this is only a setting in the transmitter regarding the servo signal and this should be fixed easily. I will take a look at that problem later

16 hours ago, Krxlion said:

2. I guess you will try to sell your product in the future. How are you planning to distribute it with people, for example that have different transmitters and/or receivers? Would it be all in one package (RC box with receiver plus transmitter that you recommend)?

I will sell the Box if possible, but I won't sell the transmitter or batteries with it. For the transmitter it should be your choice to pick, but for now the Box only supports AFHDS3 remotes, which will stick you to the Paladin. But even there the "cheap" one starts at €250 while the high end one is priced at €1000 so you have to decide for yourself. Otherwise, you can buy a AFHDS3 expansion module and stick it in the expansion slot of an opentx remote or another remote you might already have. 
For the battery, you have to make sure that it fits your model, so I won't sell a generic battery which most people wouldn't use because it doesn't fit. Also, there would be the problems that @Mr Jos already mentioned.

16 hours ago, Krxlion said:

3. Are you considering building RC box with battery inside, so everything will be in one place (of course it will cover bigger space, something like 7x9x4 stud - similar to Lego Powered UP hub)?

No, for now there is no RC Box planned which already houses the battery. Maybe I will think about this in the future.

3 hours ago, Aurorasaurus said:

@MisterCreators Custom MOCs This looks very promising, I would change is using an xt60 plug rather than a T plug, but that's really just personal preference. Also, I think (if its easy to do) simply having PWM ports is a better option than using an adapter.

The good thing is, that the Box is (nearly) fully modular, so makeing another powermodule which houses XT plugs will not be a big deal (but not sure if a XT60 will fit the dimensions, maybe it would be a XT90 then).

Having the PWM ports as they are, will not be an option for now because the ports on the RC Box provide 5V as well as 12V and some of my planned modules will require one or the other. So having an normal PWM Port which only supplies 5V BEC is not possible. It maybe makes the Box a bit more complicated because you need an extra adapter, but it also makes the Box a lot more versatile.

best regards
Adrian

Posted
4 hours ago, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

The good thing is, that the Box is (nearly) fully modular, so makeing another powermodule which houses XT plugs will not be a big deal (but not sure if a XT60 will fit the dimensions, maybe it would be a XT90 then).

I believe you meant XT30 (smaller version of XT60). I have recently tried them out, and they can hold 15A constant and 30A peak, but further studies on some Youtoube videos confirmed that they can hold even 60A for example for 10 seconds (but I don't see any Lego/Buwizz motors combo pulling that much :D).

Posted
47 minutes ago, Krxlion said:

I believe you meant XT30 (smaller version of XT60). I have recently tried them out, and they can hold 15A constant and 30A peak, but further studies on some Youtoube videos confirmed that they can hold even 60A for example for 10 seconds (but I don't see any Lego/Buwizz motors combo pulling that much :D).

oh yes, I meant the smaller version of course. The power module can deliver 75A continuously. I'm pretty sure that this is enough, but all motor controllers combined can theoretically deliver 64A peak when all ports are under full load.

  • 8 months later...
Posted (edited)

Hello everyone, 

it's been a long time since the last update on my RC Box, so I want to share the newest progress with you.

I worked on the RC Box Ultimate until May and tested it at an exhibition in our area. In doing so, I discovered serious problems, which I spent several weeks trying to find and fix. I realized that this would not be possible without a complete redesign of the box. So I took some of the suggestions on board and first focused on the smaller version, which I redesigned from scratch, changing everything and making it better.
Which then led to the RC Box Mini:

20250824_224532-1.jpg

The RC Box Mini measures 5x4x3 studs (LxWxH) and has 4 PF and 4 servo channels, i.e. 8 in total. It has inverted studs on the bottom so that it can be attached to a plate, and 3 pin holes on each end, which are (unfortunately) only 0.5 studs deep, so half and third pins can be used there. The bottom also provides access to the bind button and the receiver's status LEDs. An AFHDS3 receiver with telemetry or an AFHDS2A receiver without telemetry can be used. The AFHDS2A protocol is also supported by the multi-protocol or the more affordable Flysky radio, for example. The battery connection (XT30 plug), PF ports, and servo ports are located on the top. There is no longer a switch - as soon as a battery is connected, the box is on.

The 4 PF ports can each handle 10 A peak and can also operate original LEGO servos (so they are not dual ports). Geekservos or other equipment like light Modules (still in planning) can be connected directly via the 4 servo ports. The 4 ports share 4 A between them.

All of this is now possible because, for the first time, I didn't use off-the-shelf components for this box, but developed everything myself except for the receivers. So I have my own motor controllers with my own software and new PCBs. All of my own circuits are now designed so that they can be scaled as required and then installed in a new RC Box Ultimate if necessary.

I have now built a few more of these boxes and will soon be stress testing them at the Modell Hobby Spiel trade fair in Leipzig (Germany).

20250914_103352.jpg

For the first time, there is now also one that has the AFHDS2A receiver installed. Yesterday, I was able to successfully test that it also works in practice (I used a Jumper T18 pro with EdgeTX), as everything had been purely theoretical up to that point. One of the boxes still has an old board (which will be replaced) and I still have to print a case for one of them, then I'll be ready for the exhibitions.

The next version will include a few other features. For example, you will be able to activate a brake function separately for all PF channels using a switch inside. There will also be a slave port to which you can connect a slimmed-down slave box, giving you 8 PF and 8 servo channels.

A detailed video will be available soon.

If everything works well after the exhibitions and there is interest, I would then take pre-orders. The price will be around €100.

Edited by MisterCreators Custom MOCs
Posted

Interesting to see all this progress! The form factor looks really nice, and the functionality is promising!

Are the PF ports reversible? Or are you just counting on the transmitter to be able to do that?

Are the PF ports controlled separately from the servo ports, or are the signals duplicated to them? Can this be controlled with a pistol controller that only has 4 channels?

You say that AFHDS3 and AFHDS2A receivers can be used. So is the receiver not contain inside? Though later you say that there's one box that has the receiver inside.. So what's the plan with that? I have a FlySky FS GT5 transmitter (pistol), which has 6 channels and uses AFHDS2A. Can that be used?

You say that you developed your own PCB with software, that's really interesting. So does that have a custom microcontroller and motor controllers? Is the receiver separate, and connected to the main PCB?

Is it possible to get a peek inside the box? :)

Posted (edited)

Hi, 

11 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

Are the PF ports reversible? Or are you just counting on the transmitter to be able to do that?

the PF ports are not physically reversible as this won't work with the size of this box, furthermore it would destroy LEGO Servos as soon as they are plugged in the wrong way around. So I rely on the fact that most decent remotes should be able to reverse the ports on the transmitter end.

11 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

Are the PF ports controlled separately from the servo ports, or are the signals duplicated to them?

Yes the PF Ports are separately controlled, so you have 8 independent Channels you can use.

11 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

Can this be controlled with a pistol controller that only has 4 channels?

That should be no problem if the controller is an AFHDS2A controller, but you will not be able to use the 4 Servo ports since they are CH 5-8 and this is not configurable.

 

11 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

You say that AFHDS3 and AFHDS2A receivers can be used. So is the receiver not contain inside?

I probably expressed that incorrectly, the receiver is contained in the RC Box, but the binding button can be accessed from the bottom. When I'm going to sell these (small batch production) you will be able to choose which version you get. So you can choose to get the AFHDS3 version, then you will get the RC Box which is configured for the AFHDS3 protocol (that means, that the AFHDS3 reiceiver is installed in the Box, as well as the telemetry).

For now the AFHDS2A Version will not support telemetry, but I'm currently working on that.

11 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

I have a FlySky FS GT5 transmitter (pistol), which has 6 channels and uses AFHDS2A. Can that be used?

Yes, this can be used, but you won't be able to use the full potential of the 8 channels. So you will lose the Servo channel 7 & 8, 

 

11 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

So does that have a custom microcontroller and motor controllers?

I don't know if I get the question right. I designed the Motor controllers myself, but the Motor Controller itself consists of normal off the shelf parts (capacitors, microcontrollers, resistors...)

11 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

Is the receiver separate, and connected to the main PCB?

Yes, the receiver is the separate, but soldered to the main pcb. So it is not possible to change the receiver (thats why you get the option to choose between the two different protocols).

11 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

Is it possible to get a peek inside the box? :)

Maybe in the next few days, since I'm currently not at home.

 

By the Fact that you are using a pistol remote I would guess, that you are mostly building cars and fast models (I checked on your YouTube :)). Keep in mind, that the Buggy motors don't really like 3S (the RC Box can do 2s as well as 3s). I did notice, that the Buwizz motors don't have a problem with 3s, while all other Buggy Motors just tend to thermal shut down every few minutes. For that use case, the separate brake function of the RC Box also might come in handy, since you can enable the brake function for the driving motor(s).

Edited by MisterCreators Custom MOCs
Posted
18 minutes ago, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

the PF ports are not physically reversible as this won't work with the size of this box, furthermore it would destroy LEGO Servos as soon as they are plugged in the wrong way around. So I rely on the fact that most decent remotes should be able to reverse the ports on the transmitter end.

I think that's good enough.

18 minutes ago, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

I probably expressed that incorrectly, the receiver is contained in the RC Box, but the binding button can be accessed from the bottom. When I'm going to sell these (small batch production) you will be able to choose which version you get. So you can choose to get the AFHDS3 version, then you will get the RC Box which is configured for the AFHDS3 protocol (that means, that the AFHDS3 reiceiver is installed in the Box, as well as the telemetry).

For now the AFHDS2A Version will not support telemetry, but I'm currently working on that.

Okay, I understand, that sounds good.

18 minutes ago, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

I don't know if I get the question right. I designed the Motor controllers myself, but the Motor Controller itself consists of normal off the shelf parts (capacitors, microcontrollers, resistors...)

Yes, the receiver is the separate, but soldered to the main pcb. So it is not possible to change the receiver (thats why you get the option to choose between the two different protocols).

Yes, I was curious about things like these. I know that there are off-the shelf components even for basic motor controllers, like H-bridges used in Lego PF receivers. I just wondered if you used things like that or some microcontroller, or an entire programming board. What code did you need to write?

18 minutes ago, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

That should be no problem if the controller is an AFHDS2A controller, but you will not be able to use the 4 Servo ports since they are CH 5-8 and this is not configurable.

18 minutes ago, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

Yes, this can be used, but you won't be able to use the full potential of the 8 channels. So you will lose the Servo channel 7 & 8, 

But this is a bummer, it invalidates the whole concept for my use case. The servo ports are one of the most useful things for me when going with RC transmitters, as GeekServos are cheap, small, fast, precise and powerful, while Lego PF servos are rare, expensive, bulky and slow/imprecise. And on RC transmitters, steering is always channel 1, and channel 3 and 4 are two/three position switches also useful for gearboxes, for which servos are also best to be used. So with that I am loosing exactly what RC transmitters are best for. Sure, channel 5 and 6 could be used (continuously variable knobs), but those have less use cases for cars I guess.

Wouldn't it be possible to output all receiver channels to preserve the servo possibility for channels 1-4 as well? Since that does not need any extra circuitry for RC servos, they can be attached directly. That would broaden the utility of this little box by a large margin I think.

18 minutes ago, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

By the Fact that you are using a pistol remote I would guess, that you are mostly building cars and fast models (I checked on your YouTube :)). Keep in mind, that the Buggy motors don't really like 3S (the RC Box can do 2s as well as 3s). I did notice, that the Buwizz motors don't have a problem with 3s, while all other Buggy Motors just tend to thermal shut down every few minutes. For that use case, the separate brake function of the RC Box also might come in handy, since you can enable the brake function for the driving motor(s).

For me it's not so much about speed and power, but more about having good control, both in terms of speed control and steering control. This is why nowadays I am experimenting with brushless motors / ESCs, along with GeekServos. The reason I am asking all these questions is because I would also be interested in putting together something of an integrated solution for my use case, preferably from some existing components. For example I have small AFHDS2 capable 4-channel receiver, it would be good to integrate it onto one board with an ESC (maybe something AM32 based) to reduce wiring.

18 minutes ago, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

Maybe in the next few days, since I'm currently not at home.

Sure, no problem, thanks!

 

Also, one practical detail. I like the XT30 connection to the battery, but batteries often have a very short output cable. So with this solution, it would often require an extension cable between the box and the battery, depending on their placement in the model. Maybe it would be better to have that XT30 connector on a 10cm wire, coming out from the box, eliminating the need for an extension cable in most cases. That would also free up some area on the top of the box for additional channel outputs ;)

Posted
5 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

I just wondered if you used things like that or some microcontroller, or an entire programming board. What code did you need to write?

I used all these basic components (and H Bridges) to make the motor Controller. 
I wrote the code to decode the Signal from the Receiver as well as the code that runs the motor controllers and tells them when and how to accelerate/reverse

9 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

But this is a bummer, it invalidates the whole concept for my use case. The servo ports are one of the most useful things for me when going with RC transmitters, as GeekServos are cheap, small, fast, precise and powerful, while Lego PF servos are rare, expensive, bulky and slow/imprecise. And on RC transmitters, steering is always channel 1, and channel 3 and 4 are two/three position switches also useful for gearboxes, for which servos are also best to be used. So with that I am loosing exactly what RC transmitters are best for. Sure, channel 5 and 6 could be used (continuously variable knobs), but those have less use cases for cars I guess.

That seems to be a problem with the "basic" pistol remotes. With more advanced ones (even Pistol ones) you can choose which input it mapped to which channel. E.g. I got an Absima cr4t Ultimate (4ch pistol remote) which cost about 120 € where you can select which channel is mapped to the steering wheel, or even copy the signal to more channels. My other remotes that I use for scale models all support that channel mapping.

 

13 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

Wouldn't it be possible to output all receiver channels to preserve the servo possibility for channels 1-4 as well? Since that does not need any extra circuitry for RC servos, they can be attached directly. That would broaden the utility of this little box by a large margin I think.

I'm extremely limited by the space. So sadly it's not possible to add all the channels as servo channels.

Posted
1 hour ago, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

I used all these basic components (and H Bridges) to make the motor Controller. 
I wrote the code to decode the Signal from the Receiver as well as the code that runs the motor controllers and tells them when and how to accelerate/reverse

That's some impressive stuff!

1 hour ago, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

That seems to be a problem with the "basic" pistol remotes. With more advanced ones (even Pistol ones) you can choose which input it mapped to which channel. E.g. I got an Absima cr4t Ultimate (4ch pistol remote) which cost about 120 € where you can select which channel is mapped to the steering wheel, or even copy the signal to more channels. My other remotes that I use for scale models all support that channel mapping.

And I thought that my 120€ FlySky transmitter was a one of the better ones.. I didn't know other more advanced ones allow for channel remapping, but it makes a lot of sense actually. Indeed, that would make things easier on the receiver end.

1 hour ago, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

I'm extremely limited by the space. So sadly it's not possible to add all the channels as servo channels.

That's a pity, but I understand.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hello Everyone,

last weekend I was able to test my RC boxes on an Exhibition in our Area. I had one RC Box running continuously for almost three exhibition days and two others running sporadically without any major problems. Nevertheless, I sadly found another tiny problem that I'm currently still working on which caused the PF motors to have slightly more power in one direction, than the other. I'm pretty sure that I was able to identify the source of the problem and that I'm able to solve it. Currently, I'm waiting on new PCBs with an upgraded chip and even more functionality, these should also be able to solve the motor problem. If they work as intended, and I don't find any more problems, I will start to take pre-Orders for testing, hopefully in the next few weeks. But there will be another post about that when the time comes. 

So it remains exciting... Stay tuned for further updates.

Best regards,
Adrian

 

Posted
On 9/14/2025 at 6:36 PM, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

...
. So I have my own motor controllers with my own software and new PCBs. All of my own circuits are now designed so that they can be scaled as required ...

For the first time, there is now also one that has the AFHDS2A receiver installed. Yesterday, I was able to successfully test that it also works in practice (I used a Jumper T18 pro with EdgeTX), as everything had been purely theoretical up to that point. One of the boxes still has an old board (which will be replaced) and I still have to print a case for one of them, then I'll be ready for the exhibitions.

The next version will include a few other features. For example, you will be able to activate a brake function separately for all PF channels using a switch inside. There will also be a slave port to which you can connect a slimmed-down slave box, giving you 8 PF and 8 servo channels.

...


Hello,

sounds/looks interesting

what exactly is inside ? What Components did you use (uC H-Bridge, ...).

Can you share an Schematic Diagram / Wiring-Diagram ?
Pictures of Top- & Bottom- of the assembel PCB would also be nice ...


Where can I find information on AFHDS2A Protocol ? Is there done Frequency-Hopping (FFSH) and how is this done ?
How is binding done (establish the "connection" to synchronize FHSS) ?

On 1/4/2025 at 5:26 PM, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

...
I now have 10+2 channels in the same box size as before. 10 normal Power functions ports (2 with finally working servo support) and 4 dual channels. Additionally there are two PWM channels which can be used to hook up non power functions components such as Geekservos, lighting modules (WIP) and Brushless motors (WIP) bringing the maximum motor count to twelve.

I made a new video which shows everything:

...

What Pin is wired in what way ?
How does work 10A 12V PWM on same connector with 2A 5V PWM ? How are this Pins wired ?

Especially the wiring of your Adapters (for 2x5A/3A and 2A@5V/10A@12V) interests me.
what happen when put 2x5A/3A Adapter on 2A@5V/10A@12V Port and also when put 2A@5V/10A@12V Adapter to 2x5A/3A Port ?

Wiring-Diagram would be fine.


Jo

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