Madoca 1977

Eurobricks Citizen
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About Madoca 1977

  • Birthday 09/22/77

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    Japan
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  1. Will you post the video or picture of underside view? I do want to know how to lock differentials.
  2. I am not sure if I could explain correctly... See the picture below and check the video 1:40~1:46. 8T gear is just for making tiny space. When diff locked, red changeover part is positioned almost vertically, but not exactly vertical because of the space made by a tooth of 8T gear. Which means red driving ring is not fully pushed against DBG 16T clutch gear. That means DBG 16T clutch gear is not pushed against outer liftarm. So, 8T gear could be replaced with any other parts of same diameter.
  3. Thanks! Actually Unimog tire is close to the right size on this scale. I know it looks like "lifted" because fenders are too far from tires. But I left that space on purpose for better suspension travel. Bigger tire makes the space shorter like the real model. I think that is why oversized tires (last photo) looks rather similar to real Jeep.
  4. Thank you, everyone! Maybe I made a mistake. Obviously bigger tires look better. Fortunately the drivetrain was capable of crawling with 107mm tires. So It would be possible using same chassis, big tires, and different body.
  5. Bad news: I decided to modify front part of the chassis for newer wheel hub. So I need to restart taking pictures of building process. Good news: Instead of instructions, I shared another 4x4 MOC. Sorry for late.......
  6. Hello! My latest MOC is a re-creation of unusual Jeep model. Jeep Mighty FC Concept -Weight: 2125g -2 XL motors for propulsion -Servo motor for steering -M motor for 2 speed gearbox -M motor for locking rear differential -M motor for winch -3 LEDs for front and rear lights -2 SBricks powered by one rechargeable battery box -Portal axles -Openable doors and tailgate -Shallow bed with fold-down sides -Detachable roof -Alternative tube doors The chassis is not realistic, but has decent offroad capability as heavy Lego model. My goal was to make a sturdy and powerful crawler having propulsion motors and gearbox on the center of its chassis. Which means the drivetrain contains two universal joints - weakest points - for transmitting the torque to front and rear live axles. To save U-joints from damaging, I adopted two stage reductions after differential on both axles. The gearbox is similar one to my previous FJ40 Crawler. I doubled the pair of 8T/24T gear for higher durability. High gear is three times faster than low gear. You may wonder why rear ball joint is connected lower than front. That is for avoiding body roll caused by high torque of hard-coupled XL motors. Seeing from the gearbox, the rear output rotates in opposite direction to the front one. So the front and rear axle are equally forced to rotate in opposite direction to each other. Thus the center chassis with heavy body does not easily roll left or right even when climbing steep incline. (...at least on paper. I admit the complete body is a little bit too heavy to prove the theory above.) Steering angle is good, but turning radius is not so good. Because of the lack of center differential, it cannot handle different rotating speed of front and rear axle in tight turning. On slippy surface, like in the video, it can be steered without any problem. Rear differential can be locked instantaneously. The role of 8T gear on top of red changeover part is to make a tiny gap between 16T clutch gear and driving ring in locked position. Thanks to the gap, 16T gear is not pushed against outer structure. That helps to decreasing the friction. Front winch is powered by M motor geared 9:1. I used two pairs of 8T/24T gear instead of worm gear. It is smoother and surprisingly powerful. The hook can be manually pulled out by switching the lever under right seat. The body looks a bit squarish comparing to the real Mighty FC. Maybe I could replicate trapezoidal shape of its cabin. But I thought angled pillars and roll cage would be wobbly. So I decided to build simple yet sturdy. Instead of realistic appearance, I managed to realize easily detachable roof and doors. Although the whole MOC is built for using Unimog tires, Claas tires also fit well. But the maximum articulation of axles would be smaller because bigger tires possibly touch the chassis and fenders. It would be necessary to limit suspension travel or slightly modify the chassis. I hope you will like it! I will make building instruction. But I have to finish the instruction of Pickup first.
  7. From the beginning, I have been mesmerized by this project. It was exciting to see the developments achieved by you with many builders involved. Every single element of entire model became perfectly realized as what studless (yet classic) Technic supercar should be. It looks the true successor of 8865 and 8880!
  8. Of course not. But they didn't care. I really dislike their so-called products. Annoyingly they've demotivated me again and again. What makes me sad is seeing dirty pictures on our beloved Lego community. So please, please don't post images.
  9. He is the star in Romero's new film: "Building of the Dead"
  10. Fantastic! It is interesting that it uses the same bowed panels on the roof as my hatchback and 42056 GT3 RS do. When I built Porsche set, I thought those panels were a little bit too rounder for the curved roof of 1:8 supercar. Then I found them fitting well in my smaller scale model. Now it also seems fitting on the roof of 1:10 race car.
  11. Thank you, builders! Your comments always give me the power to build next MOC! Building instructions of Hatchback is now available at Rebrickable. As for Pickup, putting three manual levers between seats was the alternative to motorizing those functions. The color scheme of Hatchback body was decided by possible combinations of panels in my parts inventory. Funny thing is, the rear orange curved panel was took from 42056 set. In a way this small car costed more than GT3 RS...
  12. Hello everybody! It has been a while since I posted a picture of two MOCs. In November 2016, I took those models and red Avtoros Shaman to Russia for participating in Lego event held in Moscow. It was an amazing trip. (You can see many pictures of the event on that topic.) When I drove two models in the event, I found that each one had some problems on their chassis. So I started to fix them after coming back to Japan. It took too many hours to finish despite of minor modifications. The reason was that I happened to come up with another 4x4 idea during the work. (I will take a month to finish it...) Anyway, I introduce two MOCs that helped me a lot to communicate with Russian builders. AWD Pickup "Dacoma" -Weight: 1090g -2x L motors for 4x4 driving with three differentials -Servo motor for steering -Two speed gearbox (manual) -Lockable center and rear differential (manual) -LED for headlights -Openable hood, doors with lock, tailgate The design was inspired by Toyota Tacoma. Also the strange name is an anagram of Madoca. It has independent suspension on front axle like many real pickup trucks do. I used hard shock absorbers on it because soft ones could not hold the weight even using two for each side. (There is the space left for extra shocks.) As a result, front suspension became a little bit too hard. The articulation of axles is mostly realized by softer rear suspension. The model was made to go over obstacles on tough trial course in the event. In some situation, locked rear differential helped it to avoid from getting stuck. But it really suffered from low ground clearance and small articulation. And the torque of geared down hard-coupled L motors damaged bevel gears in central diff. I concluded that it could be a decent off roader, but never be a crawler. I am making instructions. It will be available on Rebrickable. Hatchback Type R -Weight: 600g -L motor for propulsion -Servo motor for steering -LED for headlights -Front axle has positive caster angle -Openable hood and roof This small RWD Hatchback was made for speed racing of small cars. For propulsion, only one L motor was allowed to use by the regulation. The output is geared up 1:3 and meshed with old type differential gear. It is fun to drive on large and flat surface. I set front axle at positive caster angle for better straight line stability. But in real life, it did not work well. On the narrow race track, I could barely keep the model running straight. It had noticeable backlash on steering. Besides, controlling fast car via touch panel of smartphone was not easy. Although I fully enjoyed the race, my driving skill surely seemed shockingly bad to Russian builders! Building instructions available at Rebrickable!
  13. Much better than mine! Thank you for sharing a beautiful picture. It is great to know that rm8's original FJ40 had a potential for evolving its concept furthermore. I am happy to be a part of that process.
  14. Absolutely cool! It is always interesting to see a MOC developed from original concept by different builder. Thanks for sharing!
  15. It is awesome that you gave perfect McLaren smile to this beauty! That's what I could not do on my supercar... Probably I can imagine your headache because I also spent hours and hours for dihedral door opening mechanism.