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Showing results for tags 'Signal'.
Found 6 results
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Hi all! This is a small idea that I had quite recently as an item that could be found in a set that added playability to a Lego train set. It's less for show displays and more for a child's little Lego City oval of track in their room. There's no electricity, just a mechanism that'll hopefully make it feel like the operator is a signalman! It's not based on any particular signal box, but the signal is very clearly an old British design. The box is cut in half to reveal the interior of the box and to provide access to the lever of the mechanism: It's a very simple set-up, with the mechanism being the most complicated aspect to it. Here's a (VERY) quick diagram of the mechanism: I'd love to hear any comments or suggestions to improve this! I might put it forward to Lego Ideas in the near future, maybe with a little train to go with it! Many thanks, Isaac
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Ever thought that the price for the 'stop' rails was a little too high? I did, so I thought to modify a stock straight rail. As you can see from the picture below, I have made a good approximation in my first attempt. I used a Mk I rail, but you can see in the picture on the left there is a Mk II rail. Belatedly I found that these come with two plug contact points, so making them easier to convert:-)! Differences to note: The square plastic piece that sits in between the break in the rail. And the extra plastic directly underneath the plug socket to accommodate the hole. The rail was cut using a dremel, and the plug contact was formed by making small cuts and then folding with pliers. The hole was drilled with my dremel mounted horizontally on a piece of board in lathe like fashion. A piece of plastic was temporarily MEK'd to the top to minimize burring. The plastic pieces were measured and cut from a doner piece of track, and then welded in place with MEK mixed with a small amount of plastic shaving from the cutting. The end result is not bad. Next time I will seek out the Mk II's with plug holes, as these already have the two plug contacts formed! You could use this technique to replace your original stop rails that have gone rusty. Take care not to mix Mk I and Mk II rails as they are slightly different, the male connecting pin on a Mk II has plastic reinforcement. see pictures above. And make sure you use the plug holed variety, ogeL did make rails without connection points!
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Hello All, I've been busy again. I've managed to copy the inside circuit from a 12v signal 2 x 3 brick, onto strip board. I've got some thin 1.5mm black ABS plastic sheet lying around, so I'm probably going to butcher a black 2 x 3 brick at some point. In the mean time here are a few pics of the circuit: And working side by side: Thanks for watching! -
Hi, Please check out pictures of my Lego Bat Mobile (original movie) with working Bat Signal on my web site www.Legoavatar.com.au or visit Lego ideas and check out my projects under Legoavatar. The Bat Signal actually throws out the Signal in a dark room!!! Also see my other projects, Lego Avatar Mech, Scorpion, Sampson and Lego Football with Stadium...
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Hey Guys I found This MOC Someone Made under name of "camlegofun" who made a great simple Lighted signal! I was unable to get the picture but you can see his/her work at LEGOIdeas: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/71391 Maybe we can make this become a reality? Just thought it would be good to share it, Rail Co Update: He has updated the page explaining it better and even a V2 design.
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Good morning, Quick question . . . and I have looked through the forum for answers and come up empty handed thus far, there's lots of DIY stuff, but I'm working on a theory and I've found the parts that I think that I need on bricklink. I have a working theory and just want confirmation. If I have . . . . .the two rails with the missing triangle, a regular remote control like 7863 would I be able to control trains stop & go or no. I've never had a 7860 set, and I still mean to get one. But does the remote work the same way as others do?? Then you add the whole red light/green light thing and that only gives you the visual in terms of if the train can go or not? If I had one of these sets I'd just do all of this experimenting on my own. While I'm asking stupid questions. The 7864 set (the actual Transformer), if you assemble the whole technic top assembly and remove the dial, does that thing actually stay together well or does it disintegrate the second that you try to use it?? Third question. If you disassemble a PF cord at one end and plug it into a 12V track while it's already plugged into the 12V transformer and then bridge the positive and negative sides of the track, is it possible to create a time portal that will take me back to 1985?? Thanks in advance.
