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Showing results for tags '7 studs wide'.
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In 1948 the Whitcomb Locomotive Company of Rochelle, Illinois built this 65-ton industrial switcher, model 65-DE-17-A for American Steel Foundries - specifically the Granite City Works (of Granite City, Illinois) as their locomotive number 8. The diesel has a B-B wheel classification, cost $49,775 when new, and was built with two Hercules, 4 cycle, 6 cylinder diesel engines that each produced 240 horsepower, for a total of 480 HP. (These were later replaced with 200 HP Cummins engines, giving it 400 HP.) The loco has a top speed of 41 MPH and was donated in 1980 to the Museum of Transportation in St. Louis by American Steel Foundries. My unpowered LEGO version is 7 studs wide with both the front and back ends being identical. Is this the front, or is it the rear? Nobody knows for sure! Thoughts? -
This 2-10-4 'Texas' type steam locomotive MOC I have made has two older ancestor LEGO models that were both 2-8-4 'Berkshire' types by other builders. Parts / techniques / ideas from these two models were mashed together to design my own loco. For the first ancestor loco, we have to go back to 2012, when I bought @SavaTheAggie's 8-stud wide 2-8-4 Polar Express loco instructions. I then spent the next three years heavily modifying the model I made from them, eventually ending up enlarged into a 2-10-4 'Texas' type. This revised loco also had a very similar color scheme to my new loco, with an all-black look with red box on the tender. This original 'Texas' type loco was destroyed long ago for parts. You can buy the original loco instructions by Sava here. For the second engine, we move forward to 2021, when I bought some Rebrickable instructions by @Plastic_Goth for a 7-stud wide 'Berkshire', from which I took the boiler and cab areas and made the rest of the loco myself using principles and ideas gleamed from the first loco 9 years prior. this design was modified and used several times in 4-8-2, 4-8-4, 2-8-4, and more wheel arrangements over the years. You can buy the instructions by Plastic_Goth here. Now in 2025, I have designed a 2-10-4 based on a stretched Plastic_Goth boiler with the paint scheme of my modified 8-wide version of the Sava Railways engine and my own loco running gear + tender. I think I did a really good job mashing these ideas together and making it into my own MOC. The engine rolls beautifully without any major issues except one: when being pushed backwards the engine can collide with the tender. Grabbing the loco itself and pushing the tender back (instead of dragging the loco behind the tender by holding that) bangs the cab roof into the top of the tender. It's my design's fault, and I can't seem to sort the issue out, unless If making the cab roof shorter in length. (which I don't think looks good and won't be doing.) The rear of the loco. Apologies for the one tile not being pushed down all the way - it has since been fixed. The cab of the loco, with firebox and gauges. The engine is 7 studs wide from this point back through the tender, while the boiler is 6 wide, not including the overhang for the walkways. Thoughts?
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This 7-stud wide diesel is modeled after the General Electric (GE) 44 ton switcher locomotive made between 1940 and 1956. The little diesel is bi-directional, and doesn't have much to differentiate between the "front" or "rear" expect for the air horn on one end in real life. My LEGO model lacks these, so it is totally symmetrical. You may be asking yourself: 'Why 44 tons, what's so special about that number?' I give you the answer from the Wikipedia article on this loco type: "This locomotive's specific 44-short ton weight was directly related to one of the efficiencies the new diesel locomotives offered compared to their steam counterparts: reduced labor intensity. In the late 1930s, the steam to diesel transition was in its infancy in North America, and railroad unions were trying to protect the locomotive fireman jobs that were redundant with diesel units. One measure taken to this end was the 1937 so-called '90,000 Pound Rule' : a stipulation that locomotives weighing 90,000 pounds (41,000 kg) – 45 short tons – or more required a fireman in addition to an engineer on common carrier railroads. (Industrial and military railroads had no such stipulation.) The 44-ton locomotive was born to skirt this requirement. The 45-ton rule was eventually repealed in 1963." Side view of the loco showcasing the symmetry of the model. In-universe, This diesel is painted as Brick Railway Systems loco 97 in a throwback black / red paint scheme to celebrate the railroad's 130th anniversary in 2024. (In reality, it's my fictional railroad I made up when I was a fourth grader, which is having it's 20th anniversary this year, so I've been feeling a bit nostalgic recently.) Thoughts?
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So after looking at my 2-6-2 steam loco a bit harder late last month, I decided the tender for that loco was too small by two studs length-wise. Thus, in order to make it more proportionate in relation between engine and tender, I made a longer tender for that loco (which is already uploaded to EB in it's final form in this thread) and added the old tender to this brand-new 0-4-0 yard goat. This oil-fired switcher shares a piston design with my MOC of Lady from Thomas and the Magic Railroad. The rear of the loco. Credit where it's due, the cab design and some of the tender were inspired by @SavaTheAggie's 2-6-2 design from over a decade ago. Inside the 7 wide cab. This tiny loco might also be my last Brick Railway Systems engine as the letters / numbers on my engines are getting WAY too expensive, and my stash of them is practically empty. I'll still build other stuff, (probably freight cars, which I don't have a lot of) but I have too many locos as it is, so this might be the end of that. It's kinda funny though, as my locomotive collection started with a 0-4-0 twenty years ago, and it just might end with this same wheel arrangement! Thoughts?
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Here's another small creation I spend some time on the past few weeks. A small American truck: I had a few wishes before I made this model. - Had to be 7 studs wide. - Had to use these tires, because they are the only tire size I know of that have good looking "truck (double) wheels" for the rear axles and good looking single tires for the front wheels. - Small fake engine - Maximum steering range possible - Steering controlled from the 5th wheel (why will become obvious later) - Openable doors and interior I got this in the model, though some are not the most pretty. Especially the wheelarches at the front are a bit big. First of all, making the wheel arch a full stud lower would touch the wheels. Lowering it half a stud is something I didn't even really look into, because I am getting pretty tired of the "half stud issue" that plagues pretty much all my models The rear part of the wheelarch is that far behind the wheel due to the steering mechanism. There is space to move it 1 stud closer to the front wheel, but I wouldn't know how to fix it in place while still keeping room for the steering rack. Considering I have alot of "old Technic" parts I used some vintage steering solutions for this model combined with modern parts. On the other hand though I do kind of like this wheelarch, because it reminds me of the wheelarches of old cars I could have settled for a smaller steering angle, but I didn't want to. I also had to keep the steering solution low due to the fake L4 engine above it A known concept for a small engine that I crammed in here. The hood is open for 2 reasons: I like to see stuff moving and because the hood would otherwise be too high for the model. I tried to mimic a curved top on the hood by have it go from 2 to 3 studs. I did have a desire to make a openable hood, but I couldn't figure out a way to make that structurally sound. Openable doors and an interior. The chairs are actually linked to the red triangular half liftarms on the outside keeping them (and the chairs) at that angle. The belly shot, which also provides another look at the steering That 8T gear is actually connected to a 16T idler gear on the steering axle to transfer it to another 8T gear going to the L4 engine. The truck is only driven from the 2 left rear wheels, since I can't fit a diff in this scale I figured this was the next best thing to still keep a nice steering angle. As you can see the outer ring of the small turntable, the "5th wheel", is connected to a black bevel gear which controls the steering. The reason for the axle in the centre of the small turntable is for the trailer. The trailer is a loaded with liftarms, that's partially because I only had 2x 3x11 panels from my 42029 and because of the white line on the truck which I continued on the trailer. The white line on the truck was actually an afterthought. The truck was completely red before, but that looked rather dull imo so messing around with some lines I decided this pattern on the truck was a nice break from all the red. This isn't just a trailer. This is a trailer that gives the truck RC possibilties. This was another wish I had for the model. I wanted to build a truck that was a non PF model on its own, yet had the option of being remote controlled with a trailer. The small turntable was an obvious choice for me because with that the truck on its own looks like it has a pretty decent looking 5th wheel which also allows to be used as a control to steer the vehicle. It also allowed me to have 2 functions (drive and steer) crammed into one spot on the model. I didn't want to see universal joints at the rear of the trailer going to the truck for steering, because that has been done and I don't like the look of that, so it had to go through the 5th wheel. The black bevel gear at the front of the trailer is to secure the steering of the 8T gear. Of course the trailer turns as well, but since steering is done with a M motor you're basically "re-adjusting" steering every step of the turn. The length of the trailer is based on what "felt right". This meant that I had plenty of space in the trailer for all the stuff. I got pretty lazy and just used some universal joints to link the motors I also made a very small video of the model (battery of phone ran out ) I couldn't make a video of the model going in reverse. It does some gear grinding then. Something I can't seem to really fix, because Lego decided to make a square hole in the small turntable instead of a round one, which I could have used to secure that drive axle on the 2.5 stud high rear chassis some more. Considering I don't like driving it in reverse anyway (I am not a master of turning with a trailer ), I am just going to leave it.
