Bricktrix

Hi Lazarus, The 9v controllers are stepping i.e. 1 step gives 1v, next gives 2v, etc. There is no in-between with these steps, like 1.2v, 1.3v, 1.5v, etc. The 12v controller is continuous so you do get 1.1v, 1.2v, 1.3v, upwards. However, during our recent experiments with DCC, we found that the standard 12v dc output of these controllers is actually giving out at max around 16.5v, so be careful with them.

Hi all. Thought I'd put this up here, as whilst its a bit of an update on these models, http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=82560 its a different topic considering the operation and tech thats been involved. So after many many weeks of experimentation, trial and a lot of error, we finally have both locos fully operational using DCC soundchips and control. The idea was to implement the DCC soundchips into the LEGO locos, but then use LEGO DC controllers to opperate them. In principal, that does give some of the basic sound functions, but the logistics and problems involved during this experiment has resulted to using full blown DCC Controllers. It just made sense to go that route given the options available in comparrison to loosing many features if using standard DC control, plus the route I will be taking with other LEGO engines in the future having more with soundchips, will make my whole display easier to opperate. We had a lot of initial problems with gaining smooth slow running operation, but persistance has prevailed and now either alone or both of these engines together (in consist) have very smooth low speed operation and are capable of pulling a heavy rake through curves at the lowest speed settings, through to the heighest, so I'm very happy :) We have managed to sync the engine sounds to the speed of the motors, although a little more fine tuning should get them even better, the same with the braking sounds, so below are a couple of test videos to show how they opperate. We still also need to wire all the lights in and sort them out correctly. For those who wish to know the techy bits, the soundchips are Loksound V4's and they are being controlled by an NCE Powercab with 5 amp supply system. Highest track draw has been upto 1.9 amps under full load with 2 locos in consist, using many of the function features which all add to the draw. I'm pretty sure the blue Pullman will be next on the list, although as thats another diesel, I may try a steam one next in something like my Castle class. The goal is to get these all perfected for this years STEAM show in October. Carl

Thank you all, much appreciated comments L@go, yeah been busy, but more for work than these. These have all just accumulated in being finished all together as I had to for next weeks show! Commander wolf, yup not a massive fan of them either, but I dont mind them and have accepted them as they serve their purpose morso than the standard 9v motor shroud in grey. Zephyr, yes they have lol and when they do it usually makes me try and put more in! Hrw, I sure will be putting videos of them up running. We've also been testing a way of getting sound chips to work in them today, using a system pretty much as rebelego has used. So, these will hopefully be running with sound in both (The O-gauge pair at Pete Watermans sound fantastic running together) so I'm very much looking forwards to when this happens and again will get videos up. Tbroyd, will you be at the show as a vistor or displaying?....do I know you and not associate your user name with who you are?

"The Twins" Now finished and will be on running display at the Bucks Railway Centre show 25-27th this month. Managed to get 3 working front LED lights on 10000. Both have 9v motors in...again a bit of "smoke an mirrors" with them as they have a dummy 3rd rim above the track. The pics dont really show it but I managed to get hold of some metalic brushed aluminium vinyl for the numbers and lettering, which looks very nice IRL and true to proto. 3mm tube is LEGO metalic silver, again the pics dont show it well. I've also tried to include the subtle differences between the engines ;) These are the first 7 wide full size diesels I have done (they were sort of a test to see if I can re-visit the class 37 and 40) and also now the longest at 2 or 4 studs (cant remember) longer than the Pullman DMU units. Link to Flickr set:

Thank you all I already have some coaches that will be sat behind it: Although I do plan on making the correct Dean Clerestories for it as soon as I get chance. Its correct, this shouldnt be broad-gauge, and yes they are un-modified standard BBB flangless med drivers. L@go, I look forward to meeting you CommanderWolf: How do you mean the driver not being functional? It rotates with the other wheels by being chain driven from the set behind them.

Thank you all Yes the wheel spacing is too close, but I set myself a challenge to build something around the PFstuff I already had, this is the result. My previous BR blue one has the more correct wheel spacing and I'll probably end up doing another PF version at some point using a med PF motor which will also allow for correct spacing. Benn, do you produce coloured rods? i.e. would it be possible to fabricate a red version of the old 12v rods, or a custom job with connections that would fit the cams pictured?

Another just finished. Using a BBB large flanged driver, chain driven from the rear wheel set to allow the spokes to rotate within the outer 4mm rubber tubing to try and give the effect of a larger main driver. "Smoke and mirrors" but I'm happy with how its turned out :) Link to Flickr set and more details:

As models are now starting to get finished for a show in a few weeks time, thought I'd share them here. This is my first model using Power Functions. Its been made to allow quick easy access to everything needed and despite in theory the fact the rods "should" throw themselves off after a minute or so of running, they dont! No idea why but its been working fine. I suppose any real problems will arrise at its first public event, as Murphy's law states thats when they always happen! I'm still undecided about the rod colour, hence a rough red sticker is covering one until I make a final choice. Link to Flickr set and more details:

Interesting. I'm currently building a PF version of one of these also: I've used technic half pin/axles to hold the centre wheel in

Thank you all for the great comments :) After investing so much time and effort into something like this (and yes I got sick of rebuilding it so many times!), along with being unsure about the front end, its very nice to get feedback like this. For those of you asking to see it running, within the Flickr link I provided are a few videos, however, I have today added a couple more of the finished model running, again on my Flickr stream. (being snowed in has its perks at times!) The door handle parts (I would provide a link if Bricklink wasnt currently down at this moment in time)I can only describe as the classic space 1x2 modified plates, with a bar either side....the parts that were used on the front ends of all the classic space ships. Obviously I do this day in and day out for work, yet as a way to relax in my downtime (if I'm away from my partner), I do it more!...go figure! So, when I had the freetime and I just couldnt face going back to this build, as there was so much testing involved and choice making) I started another project, well 2 actually. This is certainly the year of the diesel for me, building the ones I've been wanting to for years, so the next pair of famous twins are within a few weeks of completion now once I get a few more parts ordered....there will be more ;)

Full pictures can be found here: Well, after around 4 months on and off this is just about finished bar ironing out some elctrical problems with the interior lights. I've been wanting to build this for years and the front end has always stopped me. I'd like to say I'm happy with this version,..."happy enough on the compromise" is what I will state! Its not exactly what I had in mind when I set out and is the gappiest front end I think I've ever produced, but parts vs colour has resulted in this compromise. It features working front and rear lamps, interior carriage lights and close couplings. I'll go more in depth on these when I get a bit more time as there are many "IFs and BUTS" with them, but they work on this as intended. Link to proto: http://www.ehattons....tockDetail.aspx

Yes PF is good for realistic opperation. Would I use it? NO. I have a huge investment in both 12v and 9v gear. Whilst I love the 12v for opperational diversity, it does look "un-cool" with the huge 3rd centre power rail. The control pannels can end up being absolutely huge if your using all the functions, and it really is a labour of love. If you've seen my old static layout, (i.e. housebound) it required cleaning every other day if being used regularly. Not only do the rubber tyres wear and "spread themselves" over the track which blackens it very quickly, but also the motor power pickups have 2 fundamental problems. 1. regular use wears them out to a point of not making contact with the power rail. 2. the "discharge" the connections cause, requires the power rail to be fully cleaned around the entire layout a minimum of once a week with meths or something similar, otherwise the build up results in no power, lack of power or intermittent power....the latter being the biggest problem if hauling long heavy rakes. Intermittent power causes the engines to stop and start, breaking the couplings, engines zoom off alone and end up in pieces off the next corner. I chose to use 9v for display, its a much nicer looking system, far less "labour" intensive and if your willing to do a few mods, can be made to operate exactly the same as the old 12v system, even using the add on switch, signal, etc controls if you so wish....infact this is exactly what I do with my display. PF, well it has many perks and many disadvantages. Personally I hate coming / wanting to use something, only to find I have to wait for the batteries to charge. Thats the main draw back to me. Yes it takes up a lot of room, this can be overcome if you start to get "trick" with certain things, or if you want to "mod" stuff, use custom batteries, etc then you could reduce it to almost nothing, but to me, its not worth putting that effort into because I dont want a battery system that can fail you in bright sunlight....I've seen it happen far too many times at shows and even had it happen on my layout when someone put one of their PF engines on and couldnt stop it due to the signal being blinded by sunlight. I have PF, I keep picking it up and saying to myself I'm going to incorporate it into my next build, (I even did with the one I'm currently building now) but then remember all the problems that I dislike about it and go back to 9v. Thats not to say that one day I wont use it, but it will go into something that would be built more for static display rather than running. That is another perk of it though, at least its compatible to run on whatever system you already have. Carl

I've made the ones you initially pictured, although never appear to have taken any pictures of them, but they can be seen here: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=3705219

I'll step in and answer this as I was the main model designer for this game. However, please try to understand that as I am under NDA's and due to trade secrets, there are only so many things that I can say. In answer to the main question, no TLG do not design for us. Whenever possible we will use official TLG theme sets to obviously promote them in game. When its not possible (i.e. they have not made a model that we need) then its my (and teams) job to design and build them to suit the game requirements. This can involve also "modifying" official sets to further meet specs that we need in game that the original model does not have. Everything we design or re-design has to be approved by TLG. The giant Joker Robot is build-able and does work in articulation etc. Its a model I'm quite proud of and we hope to one day build it all for real. * Due to the size of it, deadlines and our "real brick collection" only certain parts of it were built for real, just to demonstrate to animators how things should work, prove to myself that certain connections and offsets did work in brick after building them digitally, etc, etc. However, whilst it is build-able, its probably not possible to build in the correct colours. We are allowed to colour change any parts to any colour within TLG's colour range, the theory behind this being if TLG were to make our models as sets, then they would also colour change parts that are not yet available in colours that we have used from their pallete. * Hence, if we were to build this in brick in game colours, it would require a trip to Billund and their spray booth for certain elements ;) Correct on the size of it, possibly even slightly higher, it is huge! As for Harlequins motorbike and the pumpkin car from HP, I still have them built and now on a display shelf at work :)

Heres a couple of links to one picture and one vid (excuse the quality) of the typical long trains I like to run: Picture video

Well for what my experience with these is worth, I think the last production run of 9v motors by TLG were slightly dodgy on the thermal cut off time being shorter than the old batch of motors. I purchased some of the last new 9v motors from TLGs website some years ago and I've had exactly the problems you have described with every one of them.....whereas, if I swap those "new" motors out for older ones, the problems disapear. I've tried many things to rectify these problems but nothing other than doubling up amounts of motors and power controllers works, or just switching the "new" motors out for the older production run motors. However, with saying that (and this throws a spanner in the works for my theory) at the show we did in Manchester a few weeks ago, Megan Rothrock had exactly the same problems with one of her motors. The motor was powering a model that should have been able to run all day without fail. She was able to rectify the problem by placing 2x2 plates onto every track connection (securing them all together) and also by flattening out the track as it was displayed on cloth, causing the track to raise in places. I will stress that neither one of these methods worked alone, (i.e. she first tried just securing it all with the 2x2's which didnt work) and it was only a combination of both methods which appeared to solve the problem. I'm still slightly dubious if these were actually the rectifications needed to get the motor to work as intended, but they certainly appeared to.........it may have just been a motor that she had not used often, and started to "wear in" through the course of time after these mods were done? To try and put things more into perspective, my display is built onto wooden boards. The tracks are cleaned with model railway abrasive cleaners and each track connection is soldered to the next by wire under the boards to ensure conductivity. Each board is also joined to the next by "plug in" wires, something that was essential for transportation and disassembly. So in theory, the running track and circuit is as strong as Megans, yet I still get the problems you describe when running the newest motors I have, yet I have no problems if using the older motors, hence backing my theory up about the thermal cut off being shorter in the last batch of motors TLG produced.

Thank you all very much for your comments I've uploaded a poor quality video of it running at the show, with a short rake of GWR carriages behind it.

Thank you all very much for your comments I think there will be a complete 8 car rake of the GWR Toplights within the next few months, as there are so many nice variants of them to form a nice looking train. "roamingstudio" The "snot" tiles are really only on sections of the carriages that do not have seats in-between them, so they can be built in a variety of different ways / techniques. However, I have not yet put seats inside the toplight carriages, but I have placed minifigs alternate to each other at every other window which gives the impression of parallel seating and that worked well enough, although I preffer to leave the carriages empty for running at shows due to weight. I think parallel seats may be a problem with these though,.....not due to the tiles, but due to the way the 2x4 curved slopes that form the tumblehome shape of the sides are built. I tend to build these with a few plates inside them so the carriages dont"squeeze" inwards when you pick them up (I like them to be sturdy), but I'm sure built differently that parallel seating would be possible, especially if using the new brackets that are due out

A few of the builds I've managed to finish today for The LEGO Show this week in Manchester. These will form part of a heavy 8 carriage rake behind my Castle Class, all 7 studs wide as is most of my stock now. GWR working Royal Mail TPO Carriage Basically a re-make of this Video of it working GWR Toplight 3rd Brake Carriage GWR Toplight Brake Carriage Its going to be a busy week with trying to get stuff finished and doing the show. Hope to see some of you there

Would have loved to have built this using dark tan rather than reddish brown, but as so often the case, parts not available in the right colour, so reddish brown it is. The real proto of this is quite tiny in comparison to other 0-6-0's so it was quite important to me to get this visually smaller than other engines I have built. It does fit a minifig in the cab, just!.....hence the jumper plate in the cab floor for the drivers positioning. One of my smallest builds and possibly biggest nightmare for 1/4 and 1/2 plate offsets within the chassis and running boards. There's not one main strong section to this,(especially in the chassis frame as I was anal enough to put the split frames in) but several small strong sections that all pull together with each other making the finished build sturdy enough and a great runner. Obviously no power for it, which makes it usable with any LEGO train power format by being pushed or pulled by powered rolling stock from 4.5v through to PF. This will be on show (and running) along with all my other engines and rolling stock, hopefully together with my full running display / layout (looking 95% possible at this point in time) at The Lego Show in Manchester next week. Larger images

Lovely, great details and very nice models

Thank you all again for the comments Dave, praise indeed thank you mate. Its probably more like how much I refrain myself from the detail with these builds, I bit my lip on this one thinking this was too much and left off a great deal of other pipework. Frank, yes some heavy DIY-ing, hence the subtitle "maybe a step too far" I treat any form of LEGO antennas in the same way that a few official sets have treated 3mm tube, i.e. cut and bent. I dont recommend others do this as its against the ethos of LEGO being a re-usable building medium. But it started out as I had broken so many antennas by treading on them, etc in my youth and making use of the broken parts in my elder years, purely for my own taste, When I see a build go so far, I see how much better it would look if I changed 3mm tube to thinner dia pipes like the technic flex rods, etc, thus a devil was born. I cant do stuff like this with work builds, so I tend to take it out on my personal models plus I justify it to myself as I may get 3 or 4 different uses from 1 long antenna now. My next couple of models will be much more "legal", although I cant show one of them until later in the year

Kewl thank you Brickster Yeah it took a lot of work, as do all my builds If something doesnt take me long to finish, I personally think I've not put enough effort into it and I'll be able to do better if I invest more time. Plus building at work is always at double speed so its nice to be able to spend some slower time on my own stuff to relax when I get chance to at home. Frank, thank you and yes they are minifig hands holding the hand rail in place. The stem of the hand fits just nicely into the gap created by the stud recesses on the bottom of macaronis and 4x4 round bricks when they are all joined together

Thank you guys James, on the real one no its not, on my model yes it is The piston box movement allows for free-er running with the way I have the rods set up on that one. Its not actually correct, but I like the extra movement it gives whilst in motion (I think it makes it more interesting to watch)

...but I could, so whatever As this version is the predecessor to the 2-6-0 Standard 4MT, I wanted to get it built for them to double head together. "Just a few minor changes to my 4MT" I thought, but how wrong I was! Its basically been a complete rebuild from chassis upwards ....I think the only thing the same is the front pony truck and the basic boiler design. Major changes include higher and thinner running boards, new valve gear mechanism, different cab and underboard pipework plus a totally different tender, although on initial first glance the 2 engines appear almost identical. Link to original proto