freakwave

I really second that! My son played with the F1 cars today and thinking over I would like to build a Red Bull Formula 1 car... but...no dark blue Technic parts no car.

mmh! on the set 7326 http://www.flickr.com/photos/54191445@N03/5015596251/ did I see a 2 x 4 Tan Tile? nice!

Looks like an European Ariane 4, I like it, nice one with nice red truss pieces. fW

The biggest issue of 3D printing is resolution. You might be able to make a decend square, but curved surfaces will always have a grainy look. Well, it is a great tool for prototyping to get a piece to play with and make a proof of concept. But to get smooth surfaces we are used from our bircks it takes more, a proper mold and the right machinery to mass produce bricks. To mass produce with your own 3D printer is a very distant illusion right now. It would definately be more expensive than 10 cents a piece if you look into a special 1 x 2 plate or similar. Even, I think it was Brickarms, does their prototypes now with the 3D Printer, but final production is with a mold as it gives higher quality and those molds are made locally around the corner and not in the production site of the world, China. I bet my two cents that even within the next 5 years one would not be able to make a smooth part with a 3D printer that would not be distingushable from a "real" molded brick/piece. Also the strenght will not be the same if you look how the 3D printing works. fW

I hope they will add a bit of the Prince of Persia goodies into these sets. Camels, the arches, the colors... Looking forward to that. fW

You forgot to add a disclaimer for the US here not to lift the gooey with your bare hands... This is something I would never do to my parts (or anybody elses) I have even issues to throw away broken parts...even those ones that come in abundance... I would be close to gluing broken parts together, but nothing like this. fW

Thank you for this tribute to this wonderful theme. I have to agree with you, PoP is a real classy theme. Colorwise and partwise it opens a whole new world to build in! I was lucky that I was in the US when they came out and TrU had their first promos. So my suitcase was full with mostly two of each set, except the ostrich race. Which I am getting now again to stock up on parts. I am sad that this was only very shortlived and we do not see a second wave. However I think this was Lego's intention from the beginning. It is a great inspiration hopefully for a lot of MOCs to come fW

Great Trike! I like the cornering it does! One thought: Isn't it crunching gears when you do the wheelie? Doesn't the differential cry a bit when you revers the XL Motor? fW

Hi Here's the actual problem, you have stated it by yourself: This needs to be the same! If you look at your picture the middle red lines which go through the pivot points of the "6.5 L steering arms" also need to go through the center of the "half-pins with towball", which is clearly not the case. Changing this will align your tires. I know this will pose a challenge to fix the 4L gear rack, but that's the point of Lego, be creative, you can achieve that! Do not move it up or down, you will get a different geometry for the pivot points (if you make it with suspension) of the "6.5 L steering arms" and the "6L links" this will move the wheels exactly the same unwanted way you have it no. The "half-pin with towball" needs to be vertically in the same position as the towball of the "steering gear"! This is the case in all the instructions that use it (and that I possess 8466, 8157) keep on freakWave

If you look at the construction that Conchas posted at Technicbricks you can see that the rod has a thread of metal whereas the thread on the fix past, respectively the base is made of plastic. What I can imagine is when the model is on display and the LA is in a position that it needs to take some load, the (plastic) thread is under stress and might transform a bit over (a longer) time . This would lead to a position where the LA will not move that smooth anymore. On the other hand as you write there are no seals, so dust particles, sand etc, might end up inside and clog the thread. This in turn would also work against a smooth operation. I need to agree that a little bit of lube will help. However I did not test this by myself. I do have close to 10 of them with me and two of them in a MOC that might push them to the limit (once it is finished) as they will need to push around 2-3 kg vertically fW

That's definately one great idea! A Technic Astronaut, and even with a lot of details with all the tubes and dispalys... and added PF. I like this very much!

You've got mail...

I guess somebody at LEGO did a copy and paste from the 8256. It has also the lawnmower in the description and looks more suitable to be converted :-)

As my wife is just watching a documentation on the Danish Court and the Danish Crownprince, I wonder if they (little crownprinces/ses) get at least one of each production set That would really be a treat!

I second that! LPub is right now the best choice in my opinion to produce high-quality instructions. It requires a little trial and error, so make a back-up of your file first! But once you master it, wou wil be very satisfied!

Thanks for your comments! The squid part is a really great part to let you imagination run! From alien lifeform to flowers and squashed aubergine .... freakWave

Hi, A bit off-topic as it is not actually a wheel you can put on a vehicle. However a wheel made out of many many parts! I have built a self supporting ferris wheel without a center hub as part of a moonbase module. The wheel construction has 43 segments and rotates quite well in its stand. It has a weight of around 2 kg but it only requires a PF-M to drive it. The diameter is more than 100 studs. Quite part intensive it has eaten up nearly all my long technic-pins It also rolls quite well on the floor...although traction would not be good... More at Brickshelf enjoy fW

Well, as it got late last night and moccing came to a stop, I thought that those Zurg and Stretch really do match :-)

I do have the complete and mint DSS of only two sets of the small sets, the DSS of the Grand Prix is pilferaged, the 4th set with the truck I do not own. Let me scan them today and upload it fW

As I got this set during a trip to the US it was only pushed around on the floor by my son who liked it actually very much. I was looking forward to put it finally on tracks and see it performing motorized. First catch, how to motorize? First thing I tried (till now) is the classic 9V motor. To fit it ito a cab is odd regarding the wheel distance. Putting it into the engine (front part) I did not do till now. So I decided to to run the motor as a seperate "tender"of the engine. I did not construct anything around the motor. Now here are the catches: 1.) The distance of the wheels in the waggons add a lot of friction in the curves making it pretty hard for the motor to pull it around and making the motor slip its wheels. 2.) The wheels of the engine need to be aligned carefully so that the wheels will (more or less well) spin freely. Then make and adaption to the mounting of the front part to change the blue axle-pin to a tan one as the tan one has less friction, this will make it easier for the engine to go around the corners. Still the motor is working very hard to get the train moving. The straights are fine (surprise!), but the corners are quite difficult. The train will considerably slow down due to the friction involved. An improvement would be to allow the axles of the waggons to move and adapt to the radius of the curve. That's the next thing to do :-) fW

Thanks for the comprehensive answer. Looks like there are indeed several versions of the same "Set-Number" circulating. I was hoping for the 8887 to be an autosensing (230 vs 120 VAC) device with even interchangeable connectors for the different power sockets like e.g. Palm did it. That's a bit of a disappointment as every cellular phone comes with a charger that's autosensing the voltage. At least that one could expect from 25 USD... So that's going to be returned to S@H... fW

I hope somebody came across this issue before. I have gotten the 8887 from S@H (US) and noticed that the construction of the device is country specific, i.e. there is an US and an European version which bear the same (LEGO) item number. I would have expected (may be too much) an interchangable adapter for the powersocket and a rating of 230/120 VAC. Now the adapter fits only US sockets, which is not the biggest issue, ...but the box and the print on the adapter read only 120 VAC. Now my question: - Are the internals of this thing really build in two versions, i.e. it can really only stand 120 VAC and not 230 VAC? - Did anybody of you already use a US adaptor in Europe...(without burning it) Thanks a lot. fW

Hi, I guess you confused Radius with Diameter. the inner diameter of a standard 9V circle is 72 studs. The outder diameter is 88 studs. Thus the Radius at the track center is 40 studs. fW

Now I'm infected with the bag building too! Actually the Toy-Story 3 sets are great to do so! Of the western Train the cars can be built in the bags with the exception of the couplers! Here's the first one! A pity the engine is in two bags It's difficult to nearly impossible if you stick to the instructions and to open polybags respectivly the PE bags which really streeeetch inside the bag is difficult! However I got Buzz together without damaging the outer bag. In case you wonder where is all the print from the bag has gone... well here it is... Looking forward to do it also with 7596! fW

Hello, Go to ldraw.org and get the newest parts updates! The cheeseslope is an official part: http://www.ldraw.org/library/official/parts/50746.dat fW