roamingstop

Looks like he ripped off most of the Railbricks instruction archive as well - as other's work across the web.

From memory On the BBB medium wheels the holes are orientated to be 1.45 away - there was a post years ago. The idea is that it matches where where the 'stud' would be on the corner of a 2x2 plate assuming the axle is at the centre. It matches the offset of the technic pulleys. From memory this is so it matches really old wheel designs; but I might be wrong.

Ive posted some 12V train accessories up onto ebay if anyone is interested. Im also happy to offer Eurobrick discounts of about 15% if you win the final items. 7858 Automatic 12V Switch - Right (no cable) 7859 Automatic 12V Switch - Left (no cable) 7858 Automatic 12V Switch - Right (no cable) 7857 12V Train crossover (new) 7863 Remote Control for 12V Switch (with cable) 7860 Signals (Red / Green) Only 7866 Remote Controlled Level Crossing - Electronic bits only Im happy to arrange shipping around Europe / World as cheap as possible.

Well I tried something similar to Front's suggestion - and used nearly boiling water... (probably about 80C for a few minutes) but it worked successfully. Thanks for the tips!

That switch solution looks very elegant. I alway liked Space2090 solution for the japenese trains (cant fin the link) but this seems easier to build

No obvious cracks in the rubber - they are all pretty good condition.

Im wondering if some people could provide a little help... I have two old models: 351 and 360 Brick Yard and Quarry sets; the conveyor belts and rubber are all in excellent condition for their age... but they have suffered from being static for too long. What does that mean?... Well assume the belt has stayed in a fixed position for a long time and become slightly preshaped. When the handle of the conveyor belt is rotated, the belt moves with it until the belt has traveled approximately 180 degrees; at which point the handle slips. If you manually assist the belt slightly the handle can 'get a grip' again and the belt will continue moving until the next 'bump'. Does anyone know how to adjust the belt so that it remains in a good friction all the time? Does it make sense to clean the rubber belt in hot water (not too hot) to help soften it / the bumps; or should it be left well alone for its age? Any hints and tips would be gratefully appreciated; as I have a plan to make the model into a slightly fun toy for some children I know. Thanks Roamingstudio

Now onto some older 9V Rolling Stock Collection of wagons from set 4564 and 4563 (Set A) Collection of wagons from set 4564 and 4563 (Set B) 4525 Road N Rail Repair 4544 Car Loading Ramp 4512 Locomotive with 9V motor and front lamp 9V Starter Set with switches; motor and new 9V transformer And some mint, unopened boxes (clearing out) 7249 XXL City Crane, New Unopened MINT 7739 Coast Guard Patrol Boat and Tower, New Unopened. 8214 Racers Galladro Police Car, New Unopened 8264 Technic Tipper Truck, New Unopened

Thanks for all the helpful answers; unfortunately chest infection stopped me getting out this week - but I hope to complete the project in the coming weeks based upon your comments.

02: HerrJJ Market - 2 votes 13: Emma - Farm - 2 votes 27: Neiks - School 1 vote

Have a good look at Space2310's locomotives using the small scale (Indy jones track) and his associated switch mechanisms. He does use RC wheels and also has a secure way to drive them (a nice design). However the scale for these really small locomotives will look wrong when compared to Lego standard. One solution could be to decide to build a custom track (using Garden Gauge for example) for the 'normal' gauge (8-10 wide); L gauge for Trams and such (6 wide) and IJ Gauge for smaller railroads (4 wide). [WIP] Cape gauge wye switch by Space2310, on Flickr PF truck by Space2310, on Flickr

Thanks for the tips. We have an RC model shop in town which is very well known so i will see what they have. The threads (wheels n motor axle) all look to be in great condition and move smoothly. Just motor windings and commutators. As to how they overheat - i guess pulling too much load / blocked wheels and high voltages allowing the current to runaway and heat the motors n plastic. A solution will be found!

This set up looks really grand - and i'm honored that there will even be a little owner of the museum. I'm always glad to help out fellow builders and hope the final system brings lots of joy for your family and friends. My only concern is whether there will be enough space for more older Blue Era rolling stock and wagons! Or will this be the end of the collection?

Im wondering if some tech-heads could help with the repair / replacement of a 12V motor from a red train motor? When I received the motor the previous owner indicated that there was a 'clicking sound' from inside. Careful dis-assembly (following the 12V Motor thread) allowed me to get a first glimpse inside; and showed that there was clearly a problem with the commutator (?) Lego 12V Red Motor Repair by roamingstudio, on Flickr Careful removal of the motor showed that the commutator (?) had slipped off the motor; allowing the three metal pickup plates to become loose on the axis. The pickup plates are still connected to the transformer wires, but the soldering has fractured. There does not appear to be any burning through of the motor - just a mechanical failure. Lego 12V Red Motor Repair by roamingstudio, on Flickr Lego 12V Red Motor Repair by roamingstudio, on Flickr This is what a normal motor should look like... Lego 12V Motor Normal by roamingstudio, on Flickr The question is whether anyone thinks this is really repairable (I have a decent SMD soldering iron etc; and could try to fix it with time and patience) or should I try to find another 12V motor which could replace it (does anyone know of a suitable replacement; other than another defect 12V motor). If I have to give up on the motor - would it make sense to try and fit a modern PF motor inside the red chassis? Thanks for any thoughts and tips. Edit: Please note the original FlickR photos have annotations to show what I mean.

Hi Gratefulnat... I know a few people who could provide homes for the blue track - and yes international postage is horrendous (good old swisspost). For cleaning the white bricks I picked up some Vanish + Oxyclean from Coop or Migros - both work well during the long summer months but the haze around Zuri-Oberland slows the cleaning process... Im based near Schwerzenbach by the way. Roamingstudio

To answer the lighting questiy on - the 12V red and black 1x6 bricks and prisms are probably the best way to allow 1 PF light to power two 'headlights' whilst the second can act as a '3rd' light above. http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4170 and 2x http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4171 and

So I finally got around to sorting out some bricks - and have built a new version of the observation car and placed it on Ebay if anyone is interested.

Sorry Franny; I only saw your post now and all the items sold. However I will be doing a second round of more 9V track and a few more models in a week or two. European postage is typically 30CHF (weight under 2kg) or 45 CHF (weight above 2kg).

Duq: An interesting question about my aim; somehow the words 'having fun recreating old models' springs to mind. On a more serious side; im thinking of having a working museum piece (it wont be on track) which would show how trains used to be. I am also not sure if Henrik's record breaking blue track attempts will actually include these really old locomotives.... And it is the process of obtaining the older parts to make a modern solution. 7750 Would be a great model to have - but is not my priority at the moment - and the Thatcher Perkins is strangely colourful. Both can be easily obtained by Bricklink if you want to spend the $$... and all the models both have better modern equivalent (Emerald Night).

Im working on some project ideas and am looking for some of the older 2x2 light bricks. Since I will be removing the lighting element to install more modern LED's I would prefer broken and non working bricks; ideally with the integrated prism (either frosted or clear). Alternatively if someone knows of a good 3D printing process for trans-clear plastic I would also be interested. Please either PM me or reply; and we can come to some arrangement. Thanks Roamingstudio

A quick Bricklink search pulled up a couple of additional models in a similar vein - model 610 (blue instead of red) complete with instructions. In this variant it appears to be a 2-4-4 with non-flexible tender (lets rectify that) It would have been part of the USA / Canada Samsonite Range apparently The question is - for a more recent rendition (modern bricks n all) which colour is better - blue or red?

This looks really great and im glad it works. Eould TLG make something - perhaps in NXT series where education is involved. But for average child the risk of hurting fingers is too great. RC heli kits have higher age limits and different branding - but hey id love to be proven wrong I used to run control experiments for masters students using similar helicopter designs on a rotational arm. Eg like rhose made by Quanser Canada. But they always needed a cage to protect the students - more from failing components than finger insertion. Still im looking forward to a complete hover system!

I have random issue - iphone 3gs. Sometimes it will hop straight to the last page i read (13/15) which is great. Next time i visit the thread it will go straight to 1/15 and need 14x next This seems to be totally random but worse on topics ive tead on both mobile and pc versions Cookies perhaps?

The tipper wagons were also sold seperately as #125, the int europe coaches were #127. Some models came as part of sets or buy seperately. I dont remember the set number for thr loco plus wagons but bricklink will help The tipper wagons were also sold seperately as #125, the int europe coaches were #127. Some models came as part of sets or buy seperately. I dont remember the set number for thr loco plus wagons but bricklink will help

Or add negatuve bouyancy with a well hidden helium balloon within the enlarged mainframe