roamingstop

The shunter is great... but I also like the low level design (green) although a dark red colour might look more in keeping. What interest me is how wheel the train car wheels run? Are they as easy to move / free as the 9V versions? It is a great way of implementing the low loader intermodal cars used for lorry transport here in Switzerland.

Good point. I have a couple of old 12V wheel sets from old container terminals; I can add some boat weights to up the load and friction.

Or if you go along the adapt cabling path... make your own long thin set. But this weekend I will set up a 4512 + load of carriages; and a new PF motor and see how long it lasts at speed 7 on a flat circle... with a new Duracell PP3. (I dont have rechargable ones).

Here is the original post about the PP3 -> PF adapter. It seems his store does not list them anymore; but basically the + and - pins are connected directly to the + - of the 9V -> PF cable; the two C1 / C2 lines are floating. Therefore it cannot power a motor directly - but it does power the IR receiver which in turn generates the PWM output for the C1 / C2 lines. The 9V battery box is a nicer looking solution.

I remember reading somewhere about the PP3 that if should give about 1 hour of continuous play under a single charge with a EN + 4 carriages. I have one at home and could set up an equivalent circuit at the weekend to check for you. It is a cheap option.

Here is a strange one - maybe posted before... Part 4083 Hanger and 44728 Angle plate merge... im pretty sure this is illegal.

If your train models are not going to be running 24/7 (or even 1 hour continuously) another solution is the 9V PP3 battery box, which is the smallest one of the lot, and is a similar size to the current PF battery boxes. However the PP3 wont last so long in terms to charge. . These boxes are not too expensive, but you still need the converter cable mentioned above. There is one guy selling custom PP3 -> PF adapter on Bricklink for around 10 USD. I have a few of these and whilst not pure Lego, they can fit inside a 3x3x6 stud space... typically making the walls 5 studs apart; and I was able to update some older 9V models in a minimal way.

What scale are they expecting the objects to be in? The brick built apples are far smaller than the minifig...

So what became of this concept - and why SnowMobiles?... perhaps cost and size?

Exactly. The trick is to somehow capture the essence of the 'original', and not necessarily a complete model... (although they can look fantastic). A 7 wide solution for enabling two rows of seats is somehow the best solution for models. Even the 6 wide base, expanded to 7 wide with side panels can work well. Some great inspiration.

Thanks... I like the 24 stud long ones as well. Someone on ebay is also selling something similar where the hose is mounted under the main wagon body. For my 'Fire Trains' I also implemented the hose underneath, and used some minifig chainsaw with wheel above to simulate the hose attachment point (bottom left of the picture below). It makes a 3 stud wide solution; which sits neatly between the hose and cupboard. However in real life most tankers have two hose outlets; one under each tank. Lego Fire & Rescue Train (Lösch- und Rettungszug) by roamingstudio, on Flickr The chainsaw piece is kept in place with two 1x1 plate with clip (vertical). There is actually sufficient space between the two chainsaws to have a 1x1 round brick mounted onto a 2x1 plate with single stud (spacer) placed between them, simulating the output pipe (not clear on my photos). I should remember to upload the LXF files oneday.

You mean like these http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=53064&st=0

Please search the forums; Kadee couplers are discussed a couple of times. http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=41262&hl=Kadee&st=0 http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=44129&st=0&p=774931&hl=Kadee&fromsearch=1entry774931 Including how to instructions http://www.flickr.com/photos/18414760@N02/sets/72157624311945374/

With pin with 1 stud With mini-fig spanner into the stud... Then this can hold the flexible pipes at a angle...

So all we need now are the Yellow and White variants...

So who will make the yellow and white versions?

Some ideas... (which designers would need to consider?)... a link into a site where printable instructions could be obtained for a nominal fee... (shared with designers) affiliate 'recommended BL' stores. Or special chrome pieces for the extra kick somewhere to get 'custom stickers' (gasp / horror) It would be great to see this extended to Model Team designs...

WIP: 6542 Container Ship and Sea Port

Great to see them all together.... but splash out on a set of Big Bens wheels... and go for the grey pair. It will make it look

Instructions Instructions 2 For a really nice stand approach; look at the UCS models; e.g. Boeing. Dreamliner 1/2 Dreamliner 2/2

Ive done a few powered 4 axle trucks with an M Motor... and had a model EE 3/3 pulling 4 EN cars or 3 4561 cars with some wheel slip. The XL in an Emerald night will pull 6 cars. I would use M for shunters... (its smaller, easier to integrate) and XL for larger models. On the split train base thread (search down the train index) you will see a discussion exactly around this; and various examples of XL motors in powered tenders for steam locomotives.

Use the stands from the new Star Wars Pod Racers...

Nah... someone just increased the speed of video playback. It is a nice smooth ride for the patient on the stretcher. Excellent MOC.... great play factor as well..

Or something a bit different... a Indiana Jones track scaled minature railway as part of a childrens theme park for the city line (one can dream)... Or even a 'mine / colliery'

Or the small shunter from http://www.peeron.com/inv/sets/4563-1 Of course, 12V tends to be more classic.