HenrikLego

I measured the distance the magnet needed to have to another magnet on a regular weighted train wagon and the mini LA had just enough stroke for the magnetic separation. I just noticed how baard has connected the magnet to the LA. Better than my solution. Think I'm gonna copy that approach!

This train is just great! Congratulations with a wonderful moc!

After a long time I've finally managed to finish this building. When the main building was completed the side building was build. Today the Church City Mission has offices here. One side of the side building also serves as the entrance to the parking garage under the main building.

Great work Baard! As you may have seen on Brikkelauget.no I'm also planning to use the mini PF-actuator as well, but haven't gotten around to it yet. Your mechanism seem to work like a charm! Your diesel engine looks wonderful! So much power functions in such a tiny engine. It's also great to see your older mocs again! I love that bridge and that church!

Many thanks for all of your nice comments and suggestions. I'll update with more images when I have the time to build some more! The previous version took more space and I didn't have space to place it in my layout. It also got very complicated to build it in modules. So I split up some of the modules and reused them into this new version.

Thanks again! JopieK: I've seen your turntable and it has been very inspiring to see your work. zephyr1934: I've been fiddling around with that idea in my head as well. It could work. It could also be an option to use a 9v micromotor to save space. I need to test this! Here is a picture underneath the turntable:

Thanks for all your comments. Hopefully I will get some more work done on this during the next weeks! No, I have not found a way to stop it so it aligns perfect to the tracks. I anyone has a good idea on how to do this within my design I would be very thankful. The motorization is quite simple. Just a M-motor connected to technic wheels (geared down a lot). I can take a photo of the underside of the turntable tonight to show you how it works.

The last months I've been working on a new project. A turntable and a shed. The turntable is powered by a PF-M motor. All the PF is inside the turntable itself. Here are some images of the process, I'll post more images when I'm further in the process. Here is a video showing the first functional test of the turntable:

Amazing snot-technique on the front part of the train and a wonderful little station! A great inspiration! It's good to be reminded that not everything need to be big to look good!

Thank you very much. The mosaic was made with Photobricks for Mac so I need to send a big thank you to the Photobricks Team. The cinema paid for the parts and will use the mosaic in the promotion of both the Hobbit movie and for the new Lego movie!

The first weekend in November each year the cinemas in Norway arrange an event called "The Great Cinema Day". This day is packed with movies and tickets with 50% discount. My local cinema in Fredrikstad asked me earlier this year if we in the Norwegian LUG Brikkelauget wanted to participate. We started to think and ended up with the idea of a Lego mosaic with a movie theme. After a while this ended up with a 14x7 baseplate mosaic from the first Hobbit movie. Instructions was made for each baseplate along with sorted parts. The event was held on Saturday and was a big success! Here's an image of the completed mosaic, and I have created a Flickr-set with more pictures for those interested.

Like this?

Again, many thanks for all the wonderful comments, and all the great ideas for improvements. Here is a short video that shows the decoupler-mechanism in action: I agree with all of you who comment on the details on the side of the locomotive. I will try to add some details here, however there are some places I'll have a big problem with it, because the tiles also need to cover the receiver and battery box, and to keep the engine as small as possible, I have to use long tiles so the engine room does not get to wide. Hi, thanks for your wonderful decoupler-design. I'm not sure of the name, but I'm using the latest version you have posted in your thread. I have some problems with the design however. My heavy train does not get the speed necessary to decouple from the rolling stock. I need to find another solution that don't require the speed that your design require. It does work great with few carriages. Like 1 or 2 light carriages. Hi, I'll see if I'll find some footage of that. You do have a good point, because the bogie does go a bit outside it's place with the pivot point that far back. The pivot point of course is where it is because of the linear actuator. I have some ideas for an update to get the pivot point some plates forward. Hi, your remote decoupler was a great inspiration for me when building my locomotive. I believe the technique I use is quite similar to yours, but I had to do certain parts a bit different due to the bogie. Thank you. I'll try to get some pictures of the inside of the hut sometimes this week!

Thanks for all your wonderful, nice comments! Do you have any suggestions on what pieces I could use that can make the surface a little less plain? I have been thinking about it, but haven't found any good things to add. There are two kinds of decouplers here. One on the engine itself and one in the hut. The one in the hut is best described in the thread I linked to by CamelBoy68. The decoupler in the engine is used with standard lego-couplers, and the carriages is detached by running the linear actuator inwards. I'll show it in a video in a few days. Thanks! I think they are quite common sight in most of Europe, in variations not unlike the ones here in Norway. The engine itself is a T44 model made by the swedish company NOHAB (Nydqvist & Holm AB) and is more common in Sweden than in Norway. We only had one of these in Norway, with the yellow/red colour scheme.

Many thanks for all the nice comments! The real one has a slight height difference on the front part. Here is an image of the engine:

Here is my version of NSB Di7 (all pictures are clickable for full size): This engine is build 7 wide to fit the PF-battery box, reciever without using stickers. The engine room is 4 wide with tiles on the outside to cover the battery box and the reciever. The train uses a regular PF train engine (on the rear bogie). This is connected to the same channel as the PF-lights in front. In the front part of the engine there is also a PF M-motor that goes down on the front bogie where I have placed an linear actuator to couple wagons on and off. Here are some more pictures: Norwegian freight carriages: I have also built some freight carriages based on old carriages from NSB. L4: Small carriage that was used to transport wood coal. G4: One of the most common freight carriages in Norway after WWII. H3: Cooling wagon for transportation of fresh food. T3: For lumber Decoupler huts: I have made some small huts to store an M-motor for remote operation of the decoupler-design by CamelBoy68. I've also built a buffer that I'll place on the end of my parking area for freight carriages. I'll finish off with an image of the train together with all the carriages:

I have made my own version of your uncoupler, but I have found a problem. When you have long trains with heavy wagons, my train can't reach the necessary speed to detach from the wagons behind the uncoupler. Any solutions to this would be great.

13. Emma - 1 18. Priovit70 - 1 21. Kristel - 1 22. sonicstarlight - 1 33. vecchiasignoraceppo - 1

Many wonderful entries here. 5. Duh-Nuh - madLEGOman - 1 point 15. Chicken Moonbase - vecchiasignoraceppo - 1 point 40. Dinosaur extinction? - Cecilie - 3 points

Many thanks for all the constructive and nice comments! We moved in to our new offices in the building yesterday. The atmosphere inside this building is just amazing. A wonderful place to work! I know that the model is slightly different from the house itself with the niches, but I couldn't find another way to make the windows look like the original without doing compromises that I think is more vital (like keeping the feel of wooded walls with plates and not making the model to big). The building itself is quite simplistic and I wanted the model to be as simplistic as possible as well. Thank you very much! I've worked quite some time with the photos to make them as clean and sharp as possible. Glad you liked the offsets, it was actually one of the positive comments from the architect as well. Fonix also mentioned this tip some posts above you, and I think it sounds like a good idea. I think I'll test that as soon as I have the parts for it. This was the only negative comment from the architect so I'll definitively want to do something about it. I'm sorry about this, I have resized the images and changed the first post. The images are now links to the full-size image instead.

Thank you. I showed the house to the architects today and they were very enthusiastic about the model. They wondered if I would make some more models of some of they're other projects so maybe I'll post some more architecture-models here in the near future. They had one comment about the railings at the terrace. It should be transparent instead of tan so that the "line" that starts at the ground and goes around the whole building would be completed at the end of the terrace. So I'm looking for some solution to that as transparent corner panel don't exist. Anyone with any ideas?

Thanks! I'm waiting for the architect to come in to the office, but he has liked it on Facebook, so I don't think it will be a total disaster to show it to him.

In January 2013 the House of Literature opens in Fredrikstad (Norway) and Earthtree Media (where I work) will be moving in to new offices on the first floor. Griff Architecture, that we share offices with today (before we move in to these new offices), has drawn this house that lies at the river promenade in Fredrikstad. Here are some pictures of the house taken yesterday: I thought the architecture-style on this house was very nice and wanted to make my own model of the house, and here it is!

I tested two Horizon Express today with a single motor. I also did as you said: Removed the technic axle wheels and added RC Train wheels. I think it manages quite okay in sharp bends with just one motor. I tried with two motors as well (in the same engine) and the result was better. Both at top speed and in the bends, but for now I'm using it with a single engine. Here is a video that shows my test run: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOz8F6hKitw

I have 2x Horizon Express set. I therefore need to make 1 extra jakob bogie and to add a little bit on the orange tiles between the wheels on two of the carriages. I have taken out the part inside the locomotive to fit the PF-equipment (as shown in the instructions). Here is the list of the parts I needed in addition to the spare parts that was left over: Here is an image of my modification, and link to the LDD-file: