Kit Fisto

I`m afraid that swapping wheels will require some internal changes as well.At the moment rhe rear axle is one stud higher than the front one, so the bottom of the front wheel and the bottom of rear wheel are on the same line.But Xerion tyre is bigger than Unimog one, so the rear axle has to be 2 studs(I think so) higher, than the front one...That means either gearing after the differential(and there is so little space...) or complete rework of rear axle. I think that 3rd party tyres might be a solution

Can you make a side picture with both gold/not gold wheels?It can help to decide

I like the gearbox design and that colour combo.Very clean and finished look!

Thanks all again! As for Xerion tyres, I really like the set, so yes, I think I`m going to get it. But aren`t they too big for this scale?(wide&tall).I think they are something like PP`s, aren`t they?

I liked the panel near the arch more, then curved slopes 1 x 2.They are something off...

Thanks a lot Yeah, these both models are "red family"

Beautiful work on the design, lines are just perfect! I like how compact the front suspension setup is.

Thanks all! I`ve just tried it and I`m not sure if I like this solution or not It looks nice from the rear view, but I don`t like the side one.Thanks for the tip, anyway) Wow, I didn`t even know that rigid hoses have to be put on flex axles.I only own some from 42008 set, but they are too long.Are they supposed to be cut to size when used with flex axles(like pneumatic tubes), or you just need the get proper length one?

Thanks all! 9398 wheels look absolutely out of style, I tried them.As for motorcycle - no, I don`t have any and as I`m a bit limited in time I can`t order them via BL (our post`s waaaaay to slow).So let`s call it a compromise...

The model is finished! Feautures: - positive caster angle steerng (With Finger of God steering - to steer the model you have to turn 24-T gear in the back of the model) - 2-speed gearbox - working fake-engine (3 cylinders, like the real one) -rear PTO Photos are made by Shurik_13 ( https://www.flickr.com/photos/28476480@N04 ) Some photos: 1 by DB_Kit Fisto, on Flickr 2 by DB_Kit Fisto, on Flickr 3 by DB_Kit Fisto, on Flickr 4 by DB_Kit Fisto, on Flickr 5 by DB_Kit Fisto, on Flickr Full album:

Done Update: I`ve finalized rear axle design, now the gearbox works as it should. The hood is finished too, now all that left to do is rear exterior. Btw, what do you guys thing about dark red wheel part in the engine?It apperars in red colour only in one set and I`m not sure if I have to spend 10$ on it or left it as it is...

Update: Rear axle still to be reworked, but I`ve started working on design. Apparently all the first photos disappeared... What do you guys think about side design?

As you may know, the history of Porsche brand has started with tractors and one of them is this beauty: And here is my WIP so far: Feautures:positive Caster angle, 3 pistons fake engine, 2-speed gearbox.(Rear axle will be reworked, atm I don`t quite like it.Gearbox mb switched for linear one instead of driving ring) But before finishing it I have to finish my exams, so next update will be somewhere in the first week of July...Or mb earlier, who knows

Started to build the tractor the first day I saw the rules

I'm not sure that "all studed" exterior is what the contest about.From the comments on rebrick: "REBRICKADMIN hi @YOP1172 You can use a mix of system bricks and LEGO Technic parts, but keep in mind that "Overall LEGO Technic look and feel of the model" is one of the judging criteria, so your model might score lower on this point during judging." So, by entering a contest with all studed exterior you basically fail th "technic look" criteria. Correct me if I'm wrong...

I second this question :)

Didn't know about it, can you please give me a link? Atm the model is at Lego exhibition in Moscow, so it's highly possible :)

I second the question for the instructions!It's awesome.

Like it a lot! The red roof rocks

Well, I tried servo when I was building me previous Kamaz truck (which had 100% yours front axle) and I remember it has some problems - direct drive from servo to 3L beam (what was connected to flex axle) didn`t work well, so I suppose that the way you use servo is different :) Like 14/14 corner gearing etc

I`d just advice you not to go for tandem wheels...It won`t really hurt the model, yet will allow you to make driven axle.

Thanks a lot! I think it`s as long as it shoukd be(yeah, it`s really long ): Same proportion in my model.

I just couldn`t fit it in there:D Servo requires some gearing for which I had absolutely no space.In fact all the steering system is placed between two tanks. :classic:This is also a reason for a little "overkill" : m-motor would have worked just fine, but L-motor was much easier to attach.

I think that it`s possible to icrease the distance between axles using longer beams and 16t gears between 16t-sides of diffs. As for the width, the complete assembly with wheels is 14 studs wide.Is it really too wide for your Scania?

Very nice!As for the rear axles, my advice is to look at this axle by ZED, which can be motorized, has diffs and suspension(and perfect for your scale): You can see more in his BS-gallery : http://www.brickshel...i?f=341920&n=96