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Duq

Eurobricks Counts
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Everything posted by Duq

  1. @michaelgale will PFx brick ever get a proper Android app like the one for iPhone? Or will I have to buy an old iPhone to get the most out of my bricks?
  2. Ah, you're a fixed too! I fix things - computers, household appliances, databases, motorbikes, spreadsheets... The day the warranty expired on my Vic20 I got the screwdriver and soldering iron out ;-) I assume you watch Adam Savage's Youtube channel?
  3. c) Remove rubber bands on one side of your engine. Won't completely cure the slowing down in corners but at zero cost it makes a big difference.
  4. Very nice! It's not easy to get the shape and angles of that windscreen right, and the windscreen determines the 'face' of an engine.
  5. Quartering is exactly the problem. For a play set like the Lone Ranger train they would get way too many frustrated kids with a train that keeps getting stuck.
  6. Not holding my breath... There won't be another Creator Expert - they won't want to compete with the Croc. City trains due in 2022 again. But you never know.
  7. Replying to an old topic with a different question is not really appreciated. Please start a new thread with your question.
  8. What do you call very slow? Crawling, or just slower than a train motor? If it's the latter - that's normal. Is it slow in a straight line or only around curves? If it has a problem in curves, remove friction bands on one side of the engine. If it's really crawling, test individual parts; are the motors spinning ok outside of the model? Do the wheels spin freely when the motors are removed?
  9. Step 1: Head over to the LEGO Train Ideas group on Flickr, you'll find lots of inspiration there: Step 2: Try. Forget what Yoda said, just try and give it a go. Step 3: Try again. Your first attempt will most likely fail so try again. Step 4: If you're still stuck, show us pictures of what you've tried so far, and I've no doubt people will be happy to help.
  10. That's a very nice Köf! I've added it to my gallery on Flickr where it's in good company ;-) https://www.flickr.com/photos/duq/galleries/72157635816592496/
  11. Had a look at the report of that incident. Looks like bad design and sloppy construction... Hope your model does not represent that ;-)
  12. That's nice but I don't have the skill or the time to build my own app...
  13. I'm still waiting for a decent Android app for the Fx brick...
  14. I feel the pain of the grey connector in the middle, with its pins only half-inserted into the yellow bricks...
  15. I had already admired them on Flickr. Really nice model! I recognise the black and red livery from various trips to Denmark but the classic one is more... classy? I'm not a fan of most modern railway liveries. I've never liked the DB 'verkehrsrot'. Pretty much every German loco looks better in whatever colour it was before that was introduced... Haven't been to Odense for a while. Let's see if I can convince Mrs. Duq to visit the museum next time we're in Denmark.
  16. I agree with @Toastie, that whole Technic construction inside looks seriously over-engineered. @zephyr1934's design is essentially a box. The panels put the bottom layer of plates at a distance from the tracks, so that if the track wants to sag it would have to stretch the bottom plate layer, which it can't. This is a box girder bridge: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Box_girder_bridge To make it even stronger the best weight to strength you'll get from any of the truss bridges that @jimmynick posted. They're all based on the engineering principle that a triangle doesn't deform. The box girder should be strong enough to hold any Lego train but for longer spans you probably want to turn to a truss bridge. I found this one: It's very simple but should be strong. I would make 2 changes: - Offset the connections of the track pieces and the top level Technic bricks (shift the track 8 studs either way). - Add a layer of 1x plates at the bottom. I think there's a studless beam inside there to hold the bottom row of Technic bricks together but I'd prefer plates.
  17. As others have said, it's got a nice classic train look! Why not show your MOC on brick.ie? Looks like you signed up a while ago... ;-)
  18. That's exactly where mine came from ;-)
  19. You mean this: It's called Wedge 2 x 1 with Stud Notch Right (Item No: 29119). You would think that it's part of the slope, curved family but no, this is Bricklink/ LDraw, there is no logic in part names. I also didn't like the tan axle pins - I replaced them with 3L axles with stop in brown with the stops in the middle - no worrying about the axles moving plus the front wheels can still rotate at different speeds.
  20. Cute. Maybe use roller skates for wheels?
  21. Great, that is so much easier to follow than all that black. Thanks!
  22. That's the Marklin model. On the real engine the two bogies are coupled in the centre of the locomotive with the centre cab module resting on the bogies. No pulling or pushing forces are transferred through the cab section. Rememer, even very wide Lego curves are still tight in the real world. If you go with 1:40 scale the widest 3rd part curves are R102 which translates to a radius of around 32 meter. That's subway territory. The Grande Curve (made of straights, see Holger Matthes' website) translates to 80 meter in the real world which is still half of the minimum radius for mainlines.
  23. I know what you mean. Years ago I decided not to go an learn Linux. I know it's great and safe and powerful but I've used Mickeysoft since.... around the time of Live Aid? Leisure Suit Larry in the Land of the Lounge Lizards from 5 1/4" floppies! I have however in the last few years mostly moved from Excel to Google Sheets. That can do so many handy things that Excel can't do. Documents are still in Word though. Anyone remember Word Perfect 5.1 with its html-like 'underwater' screen?
  24. Got a few of them in the Lego room as well, perfect for trains. Have some in the kitchen too, they're also a great size for mugs ;-)
  25. Beg to differ. I think it looks hideous.
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