legoboy3998

For the on/off switch, I just remove one roof plate and press the button on the battery by hand, works fine for me. I have tweaked the wiring from that picture. Now it goes a extension wire from the battery to a stack behind the cab which contains the IR reciever wire and lights (so the lights are on when the battery is on). From the IR reciever there is an extension wire to another stack behind the cab which contains the two motor wires (I used the short PF extension wire with the old 9V end to connect the old 9V wire fot the second motor. I now am adding a sound module to the locomotive which provides primemover sound and horn and bell, it will be connected with a PF extension wire with the 9V end to the first stack of connectors comming from the battery so it is always powered. Ill post pictures once I get the connection soldered. Sal WFB, WI

I have a GP38 built very similar to the BNSF one with two of the 8666 motors on it one with the 9V wire (to reverse it) and theother with the PF wire. I dont have any troble with it locking up because with the added ladder and spacer brick to the outer end of the truck it sets it back enough to not catch on the stud undersides. I also added the PF battery box to that locomotive and used custom stickers to cover it. You can see pics on My Flickr

Try Micro-Mark or another model raiilroad or car supplier Sal WFB, WI

ok heres a different one. I want to wire a MRC on-board sound Module with transmitter into a LEGO locomotive I built. The locomotive is powered by a DC battery wired to a IR receiver. The output of the IR receiver runs to the motor. The LEGO system has 4 wires, 9v, 0v, C1, and C2. When the battery is on and the seed is at 0, the 9v to 0v carry power. When the motor is set to full foreward, C1 has power, in reverse C2 has power, in both motor positions the 9v to 0v also has power. So would I connect the red (track pickup) to the 9v, the black (track pickup) to the 0v, the orange (motor +) to C1 and Grey (motor -) to C2? The sound Module has a NMRA standard 8 pin plug. I want to wire the module so the bell and horn and prime mover sounds work? NMRA standard 8 pin plug: http://mrr.trains.com/~/media/import/images/d/8/7/mr_ce_5-02_wiringdcc_01.ashx?mw=900 MRC module info: http://www.modelrectifier.com/resources/trainsound/0001000-1001ins.pdf If there is any other specific info that would be helpful let me know and Ill try to answer any questions. Hopefully someone can help thanks. Sal WFB, WI

I dont know if this has been mentiond and I dont feel like looking through 6 pages. In LDD 4 on my dell laptop with windows 7, LDD was working great then I chedked the "outlines on bricks" option in the prefferences and when I opened LDD a few days later, NO bricks were visible (even in the palette). Very annoying until I read in the LDD$ released topic something about outlines and it dawned on me to try unchecking that option and it works fine now. Sal WFB, WI

I dont know if this has been mentiond and I dont feel like looking through 6 pages. In LDD 4 on my dell laptop with windows 7, LDD was working great then I chedked the "outlines on bricks" option in the prefferences and when I opened LDD a few days later, NO bricks were visible (even in the palette). Very annoying until I read in the LDD$ released topic something about outlines and it dawned on me to try unchecking that option and it works fine now. Sal WFB, WI

If you want to order it use PAB! LDD adds $10 to start plus most pieces are more expensive in LDD. With PAB you can probably get the cost down to about $30. Its a little time consuming but the cost savings is worth it. Use LDD manager it saves alot of the work. I found out about the huge price markup back when LDD had that price glitch when the updated the Pallette. I made a big stink but dont think many people paid much attention. anyway I will never order directly through LDD but I use it to design all my models and order them through PAB. Sal WFB, WI

if you dont mind black trucks you could simply use the black wheel holder. In regards to the decorative side pieces, you can go on the LEGO website and click on customer service and building instructions and find the new train sets and they have a design for trucks using those side pieces in the locomotive. Sal WFB, WI

Thanks for the ideas. After a little trial and error in LDD I think Ive come up with a good fender and grill design. Using one bracket to hold the grill and one to hold the bumper allowed me the get the bumper and headlight at the correct height for the fender to sit on top of it and get the grill to lime up with the hood. This results in a small gab between the grill and bumper but that is ok there is a gab there on the real truck. The back of the fender is built using a 2x2 corner plate and 1x1 technic brick to achieve the halv stud offset. There is a piece of cheese in front of the air cleaner. The 1x2 bracket by the drive axles will be cut and inserted behind the headlight and bumper to hold the headlight in place, it is just floating at the moment. I can post more detailed images or a file for those interested. comments always welcome. Sal WFB, WI

Build your models in LDD, group a bunch together, and then use Ldd Manager to get the list of parts and order them through Pick A Brick. Its a little time consuming and you dont get the DBM box but you save on the $10 per model LDD cost plus 99% of the pieces are cheaper though PAB. I will NEVER by direct through LDD, and I save a considerable amount of money. ON 2 rail cars I made the average savings was $20 per car I bought 3 of each thats a savings of $180. Sal WFB, WI

Yeah thats pretty much what I want to do. Itd be awesome if you could experiment with it, itd be nice to know if it works before I go spend $300+ for the NXT parts. Ill work on the wiring part later this winter when I have more free time. Sal WFB, WI

Yeah I attached the LDD file for those who wanted to try building it they could work of the model itself. Im not big on the fender part LEGO uses hence my problem. Sal WFB, WI

Thanks lightningtiger, Looking at it I do agree about the roof, as for the fuel tank, Im working of many pics (the one I posted showed tehe front driver side best,) and many have the fuel tank under the sleeper part and just small steps (like the ones at the rear of the cab), mounted up by the door for the driver to climb into the driving seat. As for the part you mentioned, I tried it and it looks to large and dwarfs the tire, my main trouble area is the front of the fender where the horizontal plate "meats" the vertical plate with the headlight on it. because of the SNOT the headlight part only lines up horizontally with the fender, I really would like to get the headlight/bumper a half plate lower. I cant figure how to do that and keep it even with the front of the hood. I probably should have mentioned that before but Im really open to any new designs. Thanks again for the input, Sal WFB, WI

Im trying to build (in LDD) a Freightliner classic xl type semi tractor I have the overall design but Im stuck on the front bumper/grill and the fenders. If anyone has any ideas that would be great. Ive attached the LDD file. Thanks in advance, Sal Wfb, WI white sleeper.zip

No its ok its a complicated thing I want to do. Ill see if I can explain it better. 1) I read in the LEGO PF IR receiver protocol pdf from LEGO that the IR receiver was capable of a "single pin mode" which allows you to control the pins (9v 0v c1 and c2) individually. 2) The sound of the engine shouldnt be a problem it would just be connected in the same way the train motor is so as the motor voltage increases and decreases the sound level would do the same (to simulate acceleration and deceleration). 3) The horn and bell are the sticky issues. If one can be connected to say c1 and the other to c2 allowing you to activate them individually when you want, say when you approach a station you could ring the bell or a grade crossing you could blow the horn. 4) The hope is to use only one IR receiver because I cant fit more than one in a loco and id like to only use one channel per train. 5) Yeah not having any NXT stuff and only wanting to use it for this one thing it would be a waste if it didnt work so Im kind of hopin to find someone with the knowledge and experience with PF and NXT to know if what im saying might be possible or if it isnt due to what ever. Hopefully it is a little more clearer now. I dont know if anyone will really be able to help anyway. I went to a local hobby shop today and talked to them and I may not even be able to connect the sound module to the LEGO components in a manner which would allow the control I want. (I would use a PF extension wire and cut it and connect the wires to the module as needed.) It doesnt help that im trying to use to incompatible systems. Sal WFB, WI

Thorsten, would this remote allow using the single pin mode of the PF IR receiver? What I want to do is add a sound decoder that would act like a decoder in a DCC type Model train. Where the engine sound would increase/decrease with the speed of the motor. As well as having a horn and bell that would be activated by a push button and stay on as long as pressed. Ive heard the NXT intelligent brick (#9841) will allow using this mode but that would be super expensive. I want everything to be individually controlled and I dont think possible with the current remotes. SAL WFB, WI

Thanks roamingstudio, would this plus the nxt intel. brick allow me to control the PF IR receiver using the "single pin mode" as described in the PF v1.2 protocol pdf put out by LEGO earlier this year, to control the c1 and c2 pins individually? And, if connected in parallel, would it allow a motor connected normally a device connected for use in the single pin mode to work on the same side of the IR receiver (that is to say the red side of channel 1 for example)? Sal WFB, WI

So im wondering if it is possible to control the PF IR receiver with the Mindstorms NXT controller? I want to connect a Model railroad type sound decoder into a PF controlled locomotive so that the sound of the motor reacts accordingly with the increase/decrease of speed of the locomotive, and push button activation of a horn and bell with the push of a button.(press a button and the bell dings till the button is pressed again) and (as long as another button is held the horn blows.) If this makes sense to anyone or anyone has any thoughts that would be great. Sal WFB, WI

So today while at work (cutting grass I do alot of thinking while cutting grass) I had an Idea, how about adding sound to LEGO Trains. do any of the PF techies know if there is built in logic in the IR receiver to for momentary activation (i.e. push button where as long as the button is pressed the sound plays) such would be useful for train horns and bells? if this is possibly this would allow using model railroading sound decoders powered buy the PF battery and IR receiver. so does anyone have any idea of the possibility of this working? Sal WFB, WI

Thats interesting about the clear bands on the new train wheels. I bought the new Cargo train set back during brick-world and it came with the gray bands as best as I can tell. They must have replaced the bands after the first production run. Hopefully they will put the PF train motor up on S@H soon. Sal WFB, WI

About the only thing PAB is missing is the decorative side piece for the train motors. Itd be nice if they sold straight tracks separately and the new train motor but that does not need to be in PAB. Sal WFB, WI

YES, and no, I used stickers on my GP38s and MP15 for logos and loco numbers and the big one to cover the PF battery box on my 6 wide American diesels. You can see pics on My Flickr, as well as pics of my Kadee Knuckle couplers on LEGO trains (more pics to come on those). Sal WFB, WI

SMALL philips head screw driver. The screws dont come all the way out, a few turns and they are loose enough for the top to come off. I have the cargo train and had no trouble with the battery box.

As stated the one modification I did is optional, if you dont want to cut the bearing element, the 2x2 coupling plate would stick out one stud, (only being attached to the rest of the truck by one set of studs). I preferred it being one stud closer, therefore I made the modification. Other than that there are NO necessary modifications to add the Kadee knuckle couplers its just a "bolt on". Sal WFB, WI

As promised I just posted pictures of my Kadee knuckle couplers mounted to LEGO trains on My Flickr. I used: 1 pair of Kadee #806 Knuckle couplers with short draft gear box about $4.00 US A 5 pack of #2-56 bolts 1/2 inch long, you only need 2, (1 per coupler) about $2.00 US A 16 pack of #2-56 washers, I used 12, (6 per coupler see pictures) about $3.30 US 2 2x2 coupling plates about $.17 US a piece 2 slightly larger washers to cover the hole in the 2x2 coupling plates (I dont have a size or price for those, I found some that I already had) A 12 pack of $2-56 nuts (you only need 2, 1 per coupler) about $3.30 US The bolt fits the hole in the coupler draft gear box meant for mounting perfectly. 5 of the 6 #2-56 washers are used to fill the hole in the 2x2 coupling plate, the larger washer goes on top of the coupling plate with the 6th #2-56 washer atop that. This is needed because the #2-56 washers slide though the hole in the 2x2 coupling plate. As they say a pic is worth a thousand words, so have a look at the pics on My Flickr I will post more and maybe a vid of it in action when I have a chance (probably this winter). Sal WFB, WI