legoboy3998

What about exporting to LEGO PAB? I usually design in LDD and then order through PAB because the price is lower that in LDD and its easier than going through Bricklink. In the past I would have to breakdown each model and make a list of all the parts and colors and then go and add them piece by piece on PAB. LDD Manager as is takes the step of breaking down each model and hand creating the list out, but it would be sweet if you could export to PAB and it would add all the parts to your bag for ordering. Im sure this would require cooperation with LEGO and Im sure they wouldnt be real happy to help because it would basically replace the upload feature of LDD in turn costing them money. Just a thought. Sal WFB, WI

To all interested, I have just completed adding a pair of Kadee Knuckle couplers to a pair of trucks. I will be taking them down to Brickworld tomorrow and post pictures tomorrow night. They are an almost direct replacement for the train buffer piece. Sal WFB, WI

Another better option for weighing rail cars might be lead or similar weights available at hobby shops for exactly that purpose. Sal WFB, WI

Regarding the 8x8 grid plate, I just bought the TS3 garbage compactor escape, (not a TS fan but it has a lot of nice parts), and it attaches several 8x8 grid plates atop the 2x2 truss like columns. Granted 3 of the 4 studs on the column are connected to the under side of studs on the grid plate but one is connected to a whole in the grid. Just thought Id point it out. Sal WFB, WI

Mike and Mark: I know I have seen motors with dual output shafts with varying voltages. try local hobby shops and the internet, modelers use similar motors for model trains and cars. Sal WFB, WI

What about just using a magnetic uncoupler like the ones used to uncouple theKadee couplers. those model railroad couplers are often referred to as "magnetic knuckle couplers" and use a special uncoupler which can be mounted between rails or under the track. I dont know the exact mechanics of how this stuff works exactly but it might do the job without using non LEGO couplers. The only issue with the Kadee couplers is how to connect them to the cars. Sal WFB, WI

It does appear in the little shop to be selling the old 9V speed regulator and the new big bulldozer. A place for your Lego truck to deliver? Sal WFB, WI

Thanks for the comments. There is an IR receiver in the cab and PF lights in the Nosethey can be seen in the zoomed in pic of nose. I wanted to put them above the cab between the number boards that's where they are on the prototype but I couldn't figure out a good way to do it. Sal WFB, WI

I built this MP15 using LDD and ordered the parts though PAB. I finally got around to finding a suitable sticker material From a local hobby shop to create the custom stickers. 1501 has a PF rechargeable battery and a single train motors. You can see all the pics, as well as pics of my GP38's and photo setup on My Flickr. Comments always welcome. Sal WFB, WI

I built these two GP38s using LDD and ordered the parts though PAB. I finally got around to finding a suitable sticker material From a local hobby shop to create the custom stickers. Only 3801 has a PF rechargeable battery and two train motors. You can see all the pics, as well as pics of my MP15 and photo setup on My Flickr. Comments always welcome. Sal WFB, WI

In regards to the Lego truck (3221), the doors on the trailer are prototypical. on real semi trailers that have doors on the sides, the side doors are not the full height of the trailer. this is mostly the case on food service delivery trucks I believe. Sal WFB, WI

Looking at the book cover more closely, the front looks to be a dark bley piece with a inverted slope on the bottom going up to a 4 stud with sloped sides to 6 studs, I would guess there is a hole behind the trans clear pieces to allow for PF lights. the rest, yes looks brick built and not one solid piece. looks nice. Sal WFB, WI

Nice tractor dealer LT. I would make more attachments, they take up less room than tractors, plus, once the farmer has the tractor all he buys is attachments not more tractors. you also should make a tractor with a loader bucket on it and some attachments for said loader bucket arms, or maybe a skid steer type loader. Love seeing your MOCs Sal WFB, WI

Just looking at the Brickset! website and noticed in their 2010 City list of products: "8404 City Public Transport City - USA Toys R Us 'Fan choice' 2010 (Not yet released) " Considering Brickset has a policy of for reporting confirmed info and not speculation, I would think this means it is fairly well confirmed that, at least in the USA, there will be a "City Public Transport" as the TRU Exclusive 8404 Sal WFB, WI

Lightningtiger, for controlling signals you may want to take a look at this. they offer signal circuits for various signals including, grade crossings, that can be controlled using photocells and infrared to activate when a train enters/leaves the controlled section. I believe you could use switches if you wanted to tell the train where to go (CTC) verse the train telling where it is (BLOCK SIGNALS). Hope this helps. Sal WFB, WI

Mrblue, Ill have to take a look at that program that would take alot of time out of ordering LDD model through PAB. I will still work on creating a master list of all the parts in LDD and PAB and their prices/differences. Thanks for the info. Sal WFB, WI

Dan-147, most people dont , everyone made a big stink last April when they updated LDD and the prices jumped thats when I noticed the difference and I went "screw this ill take the time and order through PAB". I tried making a stink about the difference here and on T-n-T but not many AFOLs took notice it seemed. I contacted LEGO and they claimed the difference was for Packaging charges. I talked a lot about it on T-n-T. Sal WFB, WI

To deal with loop tracks ("reversing loops" as traditional model railroaders call them) traditionally there is a electrical break at the switch (this can just be a plastic between two pieces of track) However you will need to tell the locomotive somehow that forward is now backward and vice versa. Its not simply turning the train around like is possible with the PF trains because the motor is powered by the battery. DCC systems require reversing modules (exactly what they do I dont know) a local hobby shop may be able to help explain whats involved with reversing loops or you can look up DCC reversing loops on the internet, model railroader magazine and their website modelrailroader.com may also be of interest. Sal WFB, WI

Dan-147, The all tan car (the second version) is $113.43 USD and 86.59 EURO though LDD however it is cheaper if you buy all the bricks though PAB because most bricks are cheaper through PAB plus LDD now adds $10.00 USD and 7.00 ERUO. you can get it even cheaper if you find out what bricks are cheaper through PAB and which are cheaper through LDD (because some are cheaper through LDD than PAB) and order that way (however now that they add $10.00 USD and 7.00 ERUO it defeats that point). Ive begun making a table of parts and prices for each PAB and LDD and which is cheaper for when I order. It takes longer but its much cheaper I recently bought 9 railcars and it only cost $289.24 USD thats with shipping and a few extra parts. the same 9 cars though ldd would have been $485.73 USD so the savings through PAB is decent For me it was like $20.00 USD per car so it well worth the extra time. Sal WFB, WI

very nice mrblue, I downloaded the instructions from LEGO and was planning on designing something similar. Im surprised its taken so long for someone to do so. Thanks for the files mrblue. Just one bit of advice for those looking to buy though LDD. LDD now adds a $10.00 USD charge off the bat for orders (youll notice it if you check price of just one part). and prices for pieces are GENERALY higher that thgough PAB (I raised this issue back when they updated LDD last April ish). I have been compiling a list of parts and prices for said parts though LDD and PAB I only have parts that I have recently been ordering to build some locos and cars if anyone is interested I can post the MS Excel file. Anyway just a little FYI for you all. Sal WFB, WI

very nice mrblue, I bought 4 of them when they were available from LEGO. Just one bit of advice for those looking to buy though LDD. LDD now adds a $10.00 USD charge off the bat for orders (youll notice it if you check price of just one part). and prices for pieces are GENERALY higher that thgough PAB (I raised this issue back when they updated LDD last April ish). I have been compiling a list of parts and prices for said parts though LDD and PAB I only have parts that I have recently been ordering to build some locos and cars if anyone is interested I can post the MS Excel file. Anyway just a little FYI for you all. Sal WFB, WI

Fred, your theory is very tempting, in that, if you can get the RC motor to pickup track power, your whole system could be relatively commercially available at the present time. I also agree that using "O gauge track" would be nice, hand laying is common in traditional model railroading, the only sticky part is witches but with a little effort and patients it would be possible. have you thought about the metal brushes from slot-cars? there should be enough room in the RC motor to connect them and you could probably mount them between the front and rear axles. most hobby shops, I would think carry them, the shop I go to has a large selection of slot-car stuff. Since most traditional model railroad systems are 12V putting resistors in the circuit between the transformer and the track would limit the power to the track automatically. I like the possibilities of the new PF system, (I dont have a lot of 9V stuff, Im just starting out,) however the battery pack is the sticking point. I have a loco designed like the BNSF GP38 LEGO produced 6 wide with the rechargeable battery in it, the only downside is I need to make decals to cover up the battery box. to recharge the battery all I need to do is remove one 4 x 6 plate from the roof and plug it in. Ill post before and after pics once i make and install decals. Sal WFB, WI

I was just looking at the Brickset site and noticed the April calender for U.S. Lego stores. I clicked on the post to see what was up and noticed... "...Oh, and a TRU insider in the US says that set 8404 'Fan Choice' has been given the name 'LEGO City Public Transport' on their computer system. So it could be interesting..." So it has been confirmed in the U.S. also, (The other day I wend to a local TRU store in Southeastern Wisconsin and they could give me no information about 8404. They said if it is not supposed to come out till august they wont know anything till a few weeks before hand). Anyway Im glad to here its confirmed and cant wait to see some pics. I avoided doing this but thought what the heck... a while back right as all the "truck stop" talk was starting and Lightningtiger said his source stated 8404 had octan signage I said it could be advertisement in a public transport set such as the signs on the bus in city corner. ...yeah I know I just felt like tooting my own horn... Anyway Im real excited to see what we get in 8404 public transport even though I did vote for the truck stop. And hey here in Wisconsin were getting highspeed rail so some commuter rail type thing would be ok for my futrue layout. Sal WFB, WI

Hi all, I have a GP38 locomotive with all the PF parts installed with one PF Train Motor on it, I want to add a second PF Train Motor to it. The problem is since the wires come down from the center of the chassis the motors "face" opposite directions, when you turn the speed dial up both motors turn but they contradict each other (one motor spins "forward" the other "backward") the engine gose nowhere. My question is: Dose anyone know how to get both PF Train Motors to run the same direction when they face opposite ways? I thought flpping the gears around would work but you need to grind the cover but something is still hitting stopping the motor when the cover is secured to the motor houseing. My next thought was to switch around the metal contacts that pop through the motor housing. I got the contacts out but cant get them back in maybe ill try that again later. I know the simple solution would be cut and resolder the lead wires but I dont have soldering tools and am not good at it (last resort). Anyone have any suggestions? And Yes I do have the PF Train Motor opend its easy to do 6 star head screws. The one I opend had a number on the motor its kindof worn but looks like "BD5OP" and there is a large "R" above it. Another FYI I recently recieved 9 railcars I orderd from PAB and my one engine with one motor pulled them around an oval I made on my dinning table with no problems so 1 PF Train Motor is not bad for pulling cars. I can take pictures if that would help. Thanks for any help, Sal WFB, WI

In regards to the dummy bogie, the wheels for the new train motor (with o-rings) and the wheels that accept cross axels are the same, and I believe come with o-rings alreadin installed. Therefore, the reason for the o-rings on the dummy bogie wheels is simply because the wheels come from Lego with the o-rings on them. In regards to the decorative side frames, I hope the train sets come with 4 that would make them much more worth buying. and I hope Lego includes the sideframes with the new train motors too. On that note anyone know anything about there being an alltogether new train motor for these sets? I had heard it was possibly new, and based on the prelim. pics on the boxes, the motors appear to come with a wire, possibly wired direct oth the motor like the M and XL motors?