HoMa

Hi Steve, looks like a really straight forward method to to get metal rails. Can you also upload some pics showing the comparrison between standard ME rails and the modification? And what kind of metal is this? Is there an online resource to get this kind of metal? Greets, Holger

Over at brickset a new version of the LDraw "All In One Installer" (AIOI) was anounced: http://brickset.com/...1-now-available On ldraw.org the full package is available: http://www.ldraw.org/article/104.html Before running this new AIOI I have some questions regarding my existing (and working) setup: I have downloaded and installed the latest parts update als complete package a few weeks ago (http://www.ldraw.org...test-parts.html) ... would the new AIOI overwrite this? I have downloaded various unofficial parts over the past months ... I want to keep them and does the new AIOI overwrite this? I run MLcad 3.4 ... 3.5 is out now. What are the differences/improvements? I run LPub 4.0.0.11 ... This seems not to be supported any more and the newer LPub3D 1.2.3.443.2 is part of the AIOI. If I run the new installer, will my old LPub will still be available in parallel to the new LPub3D? These are my major questions. I would be happy about clear answers and experiences of others upgrading a running LDraw setup. Thanks in advance, HoMa P.S. And a big big thank you to all the volunteer workers who helped out to update the LDraw world!

Thanks for showing your latest model. I was not aware that the started streamlined, non-steam trains back in the 1930s in the US. Good to see that you also had a good challenge with a streamlined nose using all the curved slopes and 1/2 plate offsets. You captured the front very well! Especially when the prototype does not have much details (which a modern streamlined train does not have in comparison to a steam engine or freight train) it is very good to see little details like 1/2 plate offset door etc. Great work, now rebuild it in rare LEGO metalic silver (http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?v=1&pg=1&colorPart=67&catType=P) ;-)

Steve, good to read about the action you took concerning metal track. It seems that there are still enough train folks out there who will run trains the "9 Volt Way". But somewhere here on eurobricks was a tutorial how to use the motor from the PF train motor in a 9 Volt train motor housing. This might becomes important when the old 9 Volt motors are used more often on various metal radii (and long switches). Maybe contact Michael Gale (http://l-gauge.org/wiki/index.php?title=L-Gauge:About) for further cooperation, especially track geometry for switches ... but step by step ... I really would love to see metal track for both my 9 Volt and PF trains. All the best, Holger

On request at social.sbrick.com there is a public Profile "Horizon Express" back in the public list of profiles for screen ratio 16:9. All controls should work except the "coast" button. SBrick staff anounced new controls for custom profiles for November 2015 ... will see

Thanks for your review, Benn! I got mine SBrick around XMas last year from the kickstarter campaign and after some first troubles I was able to run some trains with it. See my little review at: http://www.holgermatthes.de/bricks/en/sbrick.php Also check out this little video: Unfortunatelly the predefined GUI for the Horizon Express was gone after an update of the firmware. And the profile market just offers Technic related GUIs, none Train related GUIs at the moment. Haven't played much with the current options, maybe I should?! Holger

Hi Philo, many thanks for your quick and helpful answer. I will try your suggested new values for black and black edges. Kind regards HoMa

Hi all, I want to create printable instructions of some MOCs. The printing agency told me that black bricks are hard to identify on the proofs they made. Especially if a lot of black bricks are used, e.g. in a steam engine. The little white/gray edges are not very well visible. It there any option to modifiy the color black so it will be processed after MLCading instead of black in – let's say – black 95% (a very dark gray). Is there any .ini file which defines the colors? The only other alternative I know is use a different color in MLCad while builing the virtual modell. But then it becomes hard to differ between dark gray as substitute for black and real dark gray. Thanks in advance for your help! HoMa

Thank you for sharing these videos! And congratulations for this great layout. The long curves are great, especiallly the bridge section. You were using normal 9V train motors and 20V as input to the track using a custom speed regulator? How many power inputs from the regulator to the track were used? Holger

Duq, thanks for these virtual elements – downloaded! What's next? All ME curved rail elements?

... depends on the length of your body and the radius you use. Using larger radii by ME you will have more options. But still, the radii from ME are very narrow in comparission to real live train radii ...

Hi Scott, as far as I heart, ME will also make track which comes in "ready to play" units like we know it from LEGO. And I am with you, the perfect world would offer 9V like track in various radii, length and switches as addition to the existing LEGO track system. Unfortunatelly this is part of the dream world. Dreams Custom tracks with the look and feel of 9V tracks, suitable for PF and 9V trains Various radii Various length Switches (should fit in the R56, R72, R88 and R104 pattern) ... Michael Gale has some really cool ideas on his flicker album: Facts Making custom track and rails is very expensive. Producing mixed plastic and metal custom track is even more expensive (I assume). The target group of LEGO train hobbyists is not soo big which makes it a safe deal to invest tons of money in the manufacturing of various custom tracks. ME acually is offering additions to the train system, ok, it does look more like old 4,5/12 V track and it does not support 9V trains (because of no metal). ME set the standards for larger radii to R56, R72, R88 and R104. Any other custom track/switch should go along with this standard or add even larger radii ini steps of 16 studs (R120, R136, ...) If some other custom manufacturer wants to become successful, he should offer something which ME does not offer. Holger

Hi all, I want to exclude a part (sticker in this case) only from the BOM, not from the Part List at the current step. Therefore I have added: 0 !LPUB BOM BEGIN IGN 1 71 -99 -61.6 3 0 -1 0 0 0 -1 1 0 0 s_80013-20.dat 0 !LPUB BOM END At the end of my test.ldr The BOM is applied: 0 STEP 0 !LPUB INSERT PAGE 0 !LPUB INSERT BOM I can redraw my instructions on and on, the s_80012-20.dat (sticker) is still visible in the BOM. I use LPub 4.0.0.11 Are there any known bugs concerning the "LPUB BOM BEGIN IGN" command? Thanks, Holger

Thanks for your help! I think a figured out a solution I am satisfied with. Here is, what got: PF receiver with folded cable and connector as *.dat http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/matthes/Virtual-Stuff/0001.dat PF lights with folded cables, connector, middle box, lights as *.ldr http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/matthes/Virtual-Stuff/0002.ldr Complete little *.ldr with some steps where the complete PF component is inserted first and in a later step the lights are inserted in the 1x1 Technic bricks http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/matthes/Virtual-Stuff/pf_test.ldr I have used both the Ignore and the Substitue LPub commands. The 0001.dat and 0002.ldr are saved with the C:\Users\Public\Documents\LDraw\Unofficial\Parts folder. I am not sure, if this "state of the art" to do so? 0 +++ These parts are NOT shown in the parts list +++ 0 !LPUB PLI BEGIN IGN 1 72 -80 -41 20 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 58124c01.dat 1 0 -20 -25 -20 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 62501c01.dat 0 !LPUB PLI END 0 0 +++ In the parts list 0002.ldr is shown instead of the 58124c01.dat and 62501c01.dat +++ 0 !LPUB PLI BEGIN SUB 0002.ldr 0 !LPUB PART BEGIN IGN 1 72 -80 -41 20 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 58124c01.dat 1 0 -20 -25 -20 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 62501c01.dat 0 !LPUB PART END 0 !LPUB PLI END This is what it looks like now:

Hi all, I have a question about PF components in LPub. The following illustration is what I want to get: The list of parts per step should show the PF component as we know them in real. The green box shows what I want to see in the LPub "list of parts". The assembly should show the PF component and the connector in it's correct position within the model (I have not included the LSynth-cable) Same with the PF lights, they are added in #2, but attaching the lights is done in step #23 and the lights should not be visible in the instruction up to #23.. How can I (1) display a part/*.ldr (I got *.ldr's for my PF components) only in the "list of parts" but not in the "assembly"? and (2) showing elements only in the assembly and not in the "list of parts"? (OK this part is easy, I know the ignore function for elements in the list of parts). Ghosting in MLCad didn't ended up in a good result. Any ideas someone? Thanks in advance Holger

Great to see your Horizon Express on R104! Questions: How is this train powered? How is it controlled? Using a smartphone and an app like SBrick? Do you have some more pics of the red arched bridge? Holger

First pictures, movies and impressions ... Today I did my first tests on ME Models Plastic Rails in all 4 radii. I just set up 5 loops on the carpet including R104, R88, R72, R56 and R40 which is the LEGO standard curve. I did not balast the track. First of all, here some pictures: More pictures on http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=552359 (when moderated) and And check out some videos at youtube https://www.youtube.com/user/HoMasWorldOfBricks ---- First of all I am very happy that the gap between R40 LEGO curves and large curves made out of straights (http://www.holgermatthes.de/bricks/en/smooth-curves.php) now is filled with new options. If everything is set up, it works! Due to the fact that the ME rails do not come as single track element it takes a while to set up everything. Each section has some fixed points for the connectors and right in the middle there is a little elevation. At all other positions it it up to you, where you put you sleepers/ties. Each bag has enough 2x8 plates to set up a similar 2 studs gap to the next plate as we know it from the LEGO standard track. Each bag of curved track which you can purchase at www.me-models.com contains enough rails, connectors and 2x8 plates for a half loop (180°). Due to the different radii you will find different amount ouf section which are required to set up a 180° half loop: R104 – 16 sections – 4 2x8 plates per section R88 – 16 sections – 3 2x8 plates per section (the middle elevation underneath the rails can be used to adjust the centre plate) R72 – 8 sections – 5 2x8 plates per section (the middle elevation underneath the rails can be used to adjust the centre plate) R56 – 8 sections – 4 2x8 plates per section As mentioned before by some other user, the clutch power for the connectors of the R56 rails is not perfect. While connecting everything the rails seems to pop of the connetors and plates very easily. Setting it all up on the carpet could be come a night mare if you are not patient. While running the trains, no connection failed, which is good. Even without ballasting and just on the carpet. The other radii didn't have these problems, the just work fine, both setting up and running trains on them. Again be careful when moving a bunch of sections from the table down to the floor. The ABS seems to be smoother then LEGO ABS and accedently I droped some sections ... which needs a full rebuild. One little negative thing I have to mention is the quality of packing. I read other post complaining about missing rails. Lucky me, I haven't had a missing rail, I got one R72- Outer extra. But the amount of connetors and plates was not always correct. I the end it turned out that the bags for all 4 radii and each a full loop (8 bags in total) had a few connectors and one plate as left overs. ME, please make sure that peoble ordering just one or two bags get enough rails, connetors and plates. Or add two connetors and plates as extra in each bad. Connection with older metal rails I got from ME Models (from 2011) and standard LEGO 9V track pieces (I just used straight pieces only) works fine. Running trains works fine, as you can see in my videos at youtube https://www.youtube.com/user/HoMasWorldOfBricks A standard 6-wide train powered with one PF train motors can run at high speed all the time in all curves. I also tested some steamers which uses either Emerald Night LEGO spoked wheels or BigBenBricks train wheels. Power Function powered BigBenBrick wheels on smooth ME rails does not make a lot of grip and my BR 23 (with XL BBB wheels and a XL Power Function motor, http://www.holgermatthes.de/bricks/en/br23.php) could only pull a three heavy cars. I can assume that this configuration will not work if the trains wants to go uphill. My ICE 3 is still powered by 4 9V motors, so I had no option to run it on ME rails. But I wanted to see, how it looks like on the R104. See yourself on the picture above ... Now I need to convert my ICE 3 into PF (maybe using the SBrick for remote control) or I have to wait till ME Models makes all radii also in metal. Wouldn't this be nice? Both for the visual effect (rails are metal in real live ;-) and also to use the old 9V system with ME rails. But I am not complaining ... Rather then metal track I would love to see ME models making swithes/points which uses either the R104, R88, R72 and R56 radii for the outgoing track. Mike and Eric, thanks again making all this possible! Holger

One bag is a half loop / 180 degrees. You will get per bag: R104 16 sections, 4 2x8 plates per section R88 16 sections, 3 2x8 plates per section R72 8 sections, 5 2x8 plates per section R56 8 sections, 4 2x8 plates per section (R40 8 sections ... this is the LEGO Standard)

Got my delivery today after picking it up from customs. Looks all great, time for tests, pictures and reviews will come hopefully next weekend... Someone else in Europe/outside the US allready got his/her ME plastic curves already? Thanks Mike and Eric making this drwam come true! HoMa

Hi Udo, thanks for sharing your pictures and videos of your trains! I really prefer your MOCs rather then the LEGO train sets which all of us have. Did I get it right, you are using metal track and old 12V trafo to power all kind of trains? One trafo per circle? So you can run old 9V motors and modified PF motors which get their power from custom pic-ups as shown in some of your steamer pics? What kind of axles do you use for the large train wheels? Seems like some extra metal inside the axle holes of the red triangles holding the large train wheels. Keep on with your LEGO trains! HoMa

Maybe me-models.com can find an European Bricklink Shop which sells ME stuff? I now from many fellow German AFOLs that they try to avoid ordering bricks and other stuff from the US or other parts of the world outside the EU because of extea costs for customs and VAT. If ME wants to be succesful outside the US they really should think about alternative ways of distributing their products. HoMa

I did placed orders for both R56 metal (via kickstarter) and all radii in plastic via the www.me-models.com website. Now I am waiting for shipping to my home in Germany. As soon as I got the stuff, I will test and write some reviews like I did when the straight metal track came out ages ago: http://www.holgermatthes.de/bricks/en/me-metal-rails.php Can't wait to get the new curves... Unfortunatelly haven't heard much since I placed my order. HoMa

Concering the old 10183 Hobby Train, brickshelf still offers some helpful stuff: lxf files of all 30 models: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=247235 Building instrcutions for all 30 models as png: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=328898 Building instructions for all 30 models as pdf: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=306136 I do not use LEGO Digital Designer and rarely the real bricks these days. Who else from the 10183 team is still around? After all these years, is our NDA outdated so we can share pics of other models which did not make it into the list of the top 30 models? Who still got pictures/renders? Holger

Hi James, great idea to continue the "Hobby Train" idea! Good luck with your ideas project. I put a note on my website and the German 1000steine board: http://www.holgermat...ks/en/index.php http://www.1000stein...322322#id322322 (requires a 1000steine user to view this post) Holger

A while ago, I was able to get some of the straight ME-metal tracks. And I did wrote a short test-case: http://www.holgermatthes.de/bricks/en/me-metal-rails.php I've also supported the Kickstarter ME project! Good luck, HoMa