zephyr1934

Wow! She looks great. A fantastic combination of classic Lego and just the right amount of aftermarket parts and stickers (grin). Personally, I don't think the height is much of an issue, but, one thought to try and make it look shorter, could you move the door up one plate?

You might want contact Lego customer service either by phone or by email. If the set is new enough, they will likely replace it for free. Otherwise, they will likely be willing to sell you a replacement part.

Great realization. For the cab did you peruse the decorated windscreens? e.g., or

That is massive, with lots of neat building techniques (and a few classic ones too, I like the old style turntable)

If you are comfortable with a soldering iron, you might want to get one of the old electric plates, e.g., 4757 and use that as your main connection point. They came in 1x2, 2x4, and 2x8. You could easily cut a 2x4 in half or use a 1x2 for your connecter. Then again, if you have a 9v motor that you want to use for PF, you'd probably be better off selling or trading it.

Looks good and I some of the changes you made to the EN is a nice improvement, e.g., using the grilled cheese as steps. The cars seem like a good hybrid between the EN coach and the PE. I've not seen the movie, but I would think the observation car should be full length and perhaps make the mail car the first car behind the engine (but I am thinking like a real train, not necessarily true to the story).

Hi Steamtrain72, while it doesn't hurt to ask, keep in mind that many builders do not have LDD or instruction files that they can share. Others might have them but are selling the instructions (e.g., Sava rails). That said, you can find instructions for one of the classic lego steam engines, Ben Beneke's BR 23-001-L, here in the railbricks instructions.

Hello hello hello John and Midelburgo, look forward to hearing more from you on the forums.

Sure, here it is on the PennLug layout at Brickworld (I love those wide radius curves) and you can read more about it in RailBricks 10. Oh, and only the front engine is powered at the moment.

The eye of a good editor can make all the difference in the world. And half the fun of this hobby is reverse engineering the brilliant tricks that others have done. Still, if you recall where you saw the originals, post links to them. It is always neat to see how things are added or subtracted in the evolutionary process of reinterpretation. (oh, and BTW, they are both good cars, always good to see some attention paid to the train cars)

Wow, that last link was a neat little read

Hum... might be easier if you could show a picture of what you have in mind for shape and then say something like, "just like this, but I'd want the blue piece to be transparent". On a side note, I've used the train windshield to hide an IR receiver, it works, but it becomes hard to control when the train is not coming at you. Not a deal if you want to set the train running but a potential hassle if you want to use it for switching.

Nice solution! And no, Lego doesn't use feedback, they just assume you are a child running a light train on a small loop and don't need to worry about such things. I have a couple of really heavy PF passenger trains that have to go too fast on the straights to make it all the way through the corners. It becomes a very tricky balancing act to keep the trains on the track AND going around the entire loop. With 9v it is even more challenging since a large loop (say 12 baseplates per side) will have significant resistance in the track joints.

Great little build packed with way too much detail.

Yet another fine Brit locomotive

very nice!

Cool! How does the pickup do over switches? As for frying PF motors, that not a big deal, it is the insane price of the 9v motors with the metal wheels that I'd be cautious off.

another great build!

Yet another fantastic steamer crammed with way too much detail, great build!

excellent! (though now you need to build a proper interchange to go with it)

@zephyr, dat would indeed be a good idea, using the PF motor and having some alternative pickup system. Not sure why one would want to use DCC than though. One could also make a radio controlled system using the same techniques.

Wow, stellar work, great job getting all of those difficult curves in there.

You mean this part ? That exists in black. I bet with a little playing around you could make the blue buildable too (might need to snot the door windows if you want it dark blue or replace that part with another color, the rest does not look bad though)

Just a quick update, the pdfs have finally posted. You can now download much more user friendly versions of the instructions from the RailBricks Instructions pages. Meanwhile, I've gone and pulled my back, so I'll be moving slow for a while. As such, I've "closed" my bricklink store. The bypass is posted on the door, and as long as you do not mind a little extra delay you can still come in and shop for rods (for now I've pulled down most of the sets though).

Great build and if this is only your first attempt at snot I can't wait to see your second stab at it.