Barduck

My latest MOC and second diesel engine, a H-20-44 in Union Pacific colors. I started designing this baby when I saw a model of it on a modelrailway site (brasstrains) and found it to be quite challenging to design and build. Powered by a singel PF-train engine which gets power from a rechargable 9V battery (some cutting and soldering of LEGO wires needed ). Only when I had it 90% build I found out I wassn't the first to build it, someone else has it too and we have almost the same design though I think mine is 2 studs longer and his had a 9V train engine. UP H-20-44 by Barduck12, on Flickr Enjoy!!

some progress pictures while waiting on the next batch of parts to arrive: progress picture by Barduck12, on Flickr

Seen this on your Flickr some time ago, really love it. I'd be seriously tempted to buy the instructions for this one if you ever decide to put them for sale on your bricklink

Started ordering parts and building with what I allready had in stock and found the first "mistake", forgot to forsee room for the PF cable connections of the front motors. Allready adapted it by increasing her length with 1 stud, this shouldn't be noticable once she's build.

added a video of her running at a steamtrain event not far from where I live: https://www.flickr.com/photos/91060327@N07/14106760215/

I'm not quite following what you want/need. You can always PM me in German too, I can read it but can't reply in German (never learned to write it, but reading it isn'nt hard)

she won't be build for several months though, first I'm getting the rods for 1 drivetrain in order to test everything properly and do ajustments if needed, then it's testing if she'll run in the set up I've done. After that it's redesigning the front and looking for solutions to add the bigger hoses on her belly. If all that works out I can build her. My goal is to have her done in time for Brick Mania Antwerp and that's in November so I have plenty of time to tweak her. You'll notice that she's much sleaker than the first one I made and still she'll have a lot of power. Where the first one was powered with 2 XL motors, this one will have 4 L ones, all in the boiler. Even with this design the tender has room for 2 PF recievers and 2 PF batteries

More than a year ago I made this: It was my very first MOC coming out of my dark ages. Now, I'm working on her return. The last few months I've learned alot from looking at other people's trains, making a copy off Jayhurst Bigboy and Tony Sava's Allegheny. I was still pretty pleased with my early version of this triplex but I knew deep down that I'd need to rebuild her sooner or later to get her better. Seeing Cale's beautifull challenger and the solution for the sloped window at the front of the cabin put me to work on her, it was just the solution I needed to pull her off. Now, it's time to reveal the Design renders, Zephyr1934 was the first to see them as I was informing about which rods I'd actually need. There's still some changes that need to be done, like the front platform and some tubes underneath but overall she's done as far as I want her to be virtual so I've starting sorting the parts (destroyed the old version to harvest parts) and making the list of what I still need to order. The design pictures: virginian triplex by Barduck12, on Flickr

I've linked that, I'm not from the USA though but little old Belgium. Anyhow, it's the Virginian that had 56" drivers, which you asked about. The Erie triplex had 63" drivers (around 1.60m?). And no, those men on the picture aren't gnomes, if you look closely you'll notice they are standing lower then the drivers. Also, people in the 1920's weren't as tall as today, where 1.80m these days is rather usual, if you had that length back then you were a giant among men. People back then where around 1.70m OT now though: really nice one again LT12V. You've given me an idea too for the front of my latest project, I was getting stuck there. Maybe it's time to reveal her now that I've started ordering parts to start building

she runs fine at home, no problems with normal LEGO turn and switches and because she has 2 PF train engines pulls 10 cars.

did not keep track off expenses since I allready had quite a lot of the bricks I needed in stock.

Finally finished: UP EMD SD-60 by Barduck12, on Flickr more pictures on my Flickr account

since you're from the states I'd suggest taking a look here: http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=OSCALE I selected O-scale because it's probably closest to LEGO-scale, you can offcourse browse thru the HO-scale ones too but my guess is those will be slightly small

thx alot for those, just when I'll be needing them to start finalizing the design of my project, you know which one

will you be adding the little valve gear rods aswell in LDRaw files? You know, the 2L2holes and 3L3holes

for those interested, or wanting to use different color combinations without the hassle of having to rebuild it in LDRaw in the colors of their choice here's the link to the file for MLCad I just added: https://app.box.com/s/9vf5yat26wh41gejn6hv I've started ordering parts, hope to have her build and let her testrun sometime next month

64 studs, magnet to magnet

In union Pacfic colors EMD SD-60 Diesel Union Pacific1 by Barduck12, on Flickr Now to start ordering parts. Here's the link to the PDF file: https://app.box.com/...3wjzn30gzln7lax The link to the parts list: https://app.box.com/...nxow24djl7ewegj

I'd have to say 3-way switches. So basicly left and right switch put together. You see them in modelrailway, so why not in LEGO? Something like this: http://www.peco-uk.com/product.asp?strParents=3309,3322&CAT_ID=3327&P_ID=17402

my 8y old had build most of the train itself, I added the power functions. The amount of parts that need to be removed is low and very easy, there's instructions for it too so it's so easy even my kid could have done it if I'd let him. Power on/off switch is on the battery and only requires to remove the roof from the train containing the battery, that itself does again not require you to be a rocketscientist, the roof snaps of and on in the blink of an eye. No need for the rechargable battery either, allthough it is a better option to have. The battery can simply be pulled out to remove the aaa batteries inside to either replace or charge them. The batteryholder is sitting on top of tiles so no force needed to remove it from the train

Added the passenger coach and the one called "American Beauty" aswell now. Now to get everything in MLCad. Oh, and JopieK, I'll be needing stickers for those, hint hint. Check the link to the modeltrain compagny to get an idea on which ones. It's the 5451 and 5447 seat coaches, the 8225 mailcar, 5704 luggage car and the one nicknamed American Beauty

"luckely" I've not yet a layout made, the tables aren't even ready. It is in plans though. I've planned it so that the steamers will be running on the ouside track while the middle track will be for the standard LEGO trains I got. On that outside track there'll be only 3 switches, 2 to get to and off the turntable and one to get to the fiddle yard.

added a new picture to the set, mailcar with 2 axle trucks, details on roof and underneath done. Trucks still in black as some parts don't exist in in the darker gray, only in light

rebuilded the mailcar to 60 studs to get this: still needs details underneath and on the roof added and change trucks to 2 axles (only the luggage car has 3 axle trucks). I think it's looking much better in 60 stus than in 50. In the set in top post you can also see the comparison, 50 vs 60 studs

I'm trying to design me some passenger/luggage/mailcars to put behind the Challenger or Bigboy based on the pictures of models I found here: http://www.brasstrai...-CNW-11-Car-Set Designing in 7-wide, I tried at 44 studs long first but scratch that real fast as it didn'nt look good. I currently designed them at 50 studs long: which looks better allready but still to short. Specially the mailcar looks all wrong, can't squeeze everything featured on the model in it. So I'll need to lengthen them again, but question is, how long. 60 studs or even 70 studs. Problem is, when does it get to long to still be able to run on normal LEGO tracks (curves and switches)