aqaz

Really good MOC... Very realistic... If you don't open the bonnet. How long did it take you to build it?

You're welcome.....

Bigger rugged tyres, longer stronger LA's, big shockers (say 8 long x 2 wide, a bit like 48912), perhaps longer stronger beams, some heavy duty gear wheels,..... dual or triple channel receiver with 6 outputs, high capacity rechargeable LiPo (half the size and twice the power of 59510),..... What's not to like? (Other than costing about 500 Euros)

Eric Leppen: Clearly you missed the syntax, this was a direct answer to 1974 who wrote: I do not agree with you that it would not be interesting. That is your opinion, clearly, not everyone thinks alike.

On one hand, I really like sets that just have all that is needed for the functions yet are very realistic, e.g. 8294 excavator; cheap, and you get the parts to re-use in MOC's. However, On the other hand, I agree entirely with 'The Ghost Racer', A dumper in this scale would be superb..... Surely, these would be the wheels that all you 4x4 off-roader MOCers dream of at night, with 170mm tyres. 1974: Surely, electric drive at each wheel is eminently 'doable' with technic parts, indeed, I can't think of anything more suited to PF.

Really good MOC... I can't see if you used this part, 2904.... (If not, maybe you could.)

Really?

Error 404: The two 1x1 parts I made from this did not exist.... You were correct about the other 'cutting up' that I said did not count, rather than wait for bricklink I cut something I had plenty of into two of something I needed that day and did not have. TwentyLeggedHen: It was for kingpins in my Magnums steering. Boxerlego: I agree with your comment about cost, I also do not see any problem in modifying simple parts to fit a need, like 3L thin liftarms. The Ghost Racer: Thank you, I am happy that my opinion is agreed with.

DLuders; thank you.... By the way, I agree entirely with your earlier post in this thread.

Since we have chosen to work with lego, concessions must be made. It is not possible to work in any exact scale because you must round up or down to the nearest stud, similarly, it is not possible for TLG to make new convincing representations of particular machines without inventing new parts. If then you want to build something that TLG does not yet make it is possible that you will require something that does not yet exist. There are some things that TLG simply do not make that in my opinion can not be omitted from a model, consequently, I make and include them. Windscreens, mirror glass, stickers, etc. These are vital for realism and are enhancements to the lego, complementary parts even. I have cut one of these to make two of these, but I expect that this does not count as a modification. I have also cut this in half to make this footstep, because that is the only way when scale dictates that 3l is required. I agree with Nazgarot; 'I don't care if others like it or not', Sometimes I see posts on this forum that make me smile, from some who aspire to take the moral high ground, describing themselves as 'purists' ..... It (to them) is a terrible 'sin' if someone makes an 'illegal' part.... But, it is wonderful if TLG makes the same part because it is vital for looks or function.

Yes it's down here... Images missing from posts, links leading to error... Is there not anyone, moderators or whatever, from brickshelf who is also a member here that can let us know what is going on?

I'm sorry, I gave you the wrong link first time... this is the one it should have been: 6x6 artic I think you might find something that you do have the parts for.... (Of course, your idea is the what you should pursue... I am not trying to interfere.)

This is very impressive, I like it.... If you are stuck for inspiration for a body, look here, there are lots of ideas... (There is every wheel arrangement at this site)

It made me laugh.... I imagine a 99% purist has the visor open.... just a little bit. I don't think that I am alone in this particular opinion; There are some things that Lego simply do not make that enhance a good MOC. This thread seems to me to be in this category. For instance, again, personal opinion, I cannot tolerate the lack of realism of missing out windscreen or mirrors, Lego don't make them, so I make them... The MOC is none the less still an essentially Lego model... ("Purists" are happy to miss out cylinder heads!) So my interest here is to make the power supply a little more discrete but still compatible with PF components. Blakbird: Thank you for the link. Doc_Brown: Helipal is very interesting... Easy to envisage some set up with these batteries... But still at square one with making a Lego friendly holder and PF compatible adapter. I did some more experiments with a phone battery, it fit quite snugly on edge in a one stud gap. (this is a Samsung battery, it is 5 x 4 x 1 studs. 3.7v, 800mA.) So I imagine 3 would be required to run PF... But, how to link them in series to a PF output.

Blakbird: Could you give us a product number or illustration of the Li battery you are talking about, please. I was going to solder a PF connector onto a phone battery, it fit perfectly in a 2 plate high gap, but then realised that if I did I would be unable to charge it.

Great minds think alike.... ....'after all I hav lots to learn.' Haven't we all.... If you stop learning you may as well be dead.

lukeandahalf: Very impressive, you really have cracked this concept..... Did any of those 'angular' trucks get into your head, so that it is working in your subconscious for the bodywork? By the way, there is just about any wheel (& track) arrangement of off road vehicle at that site.... Lots of inspiration to be had.

You're right... I was very wrong with the 62.4 x 20 idea.... Way too small.... What if.... (Just being pedantic about proportion...) Thinking 1930's/40's/50's hot-rods.... You could get a decent looking result with Unimog wheels/tyres on the back and motor cycle wheel/tyres on the front.... Again, only my opinion, but if I was building this I would just try all I have till it 'looked right'... And for this I would probably be looking for something around 100mm OD for tyres. (Then again MC tyres have the wrong profile/tread... but they are 100mm.. Oh no!.... they are about 5mm bigger than the Unimog tyres..... These wheels still look hot-rod-ish standing on my table.) Of course, if money is no object and you are not one of those who must use only pristine Lego bits without any flexibility, there are lots of third party options available discussed at great length on this forum already. It is looking really good.... But, Really Good... So Far.

Your bonnet height is actually slightly low.... Just working off the picture, the proportions of the real grill are 8:5 and the grill height is about half the overall width... Your grill is about 8:6. Your lights are in the right place. BUT.... The tyres (&wheels) are what is wrong... They need to be just a bit more than half as wide and half as high again... centred about where the top of your 3x3 liftarms are. (Only my opinion) Dump the hubs and go with the 62.4x20 wheels and tyres, mounted 2 studs higher, then they will fit perfectly with what you have already done... The hotrod is potentially brilliant as it is so far... But not with those wheels.

Producing stickers is not that difficult if you have the correct resources.... But, of course, the resources are often the problem. How I do it: Samsung CLP300 laser printer, I have had this about 5 years, no dearer than a good inkjet and the toner lasts for a very long time. Laser Printer Sticker Film, from ebay, a seller called 'madabout'. I have; clear, white and silver. About £6 for 5 A4 sheets. High Definition Images. I went for 600dpi after some experimentation. It is easy to compile your stickers to print in MS Word because you have accurate measurements for the images on the toolbar. So you can make exact fits for lego tiles etc with custom images, I expect it would be easier if the stickers a copies of a lego set because these will already be the correct size. Print and cut out with a craft knife. If you look at the pictures: In this topic or at brickshelf you can judge for yourself, pay particular attention to the Renault badges and the instrument panel. I would guess that the whole lot cost no more than £5 to produce.... (And quite a lot of time... But... it was a fun challenge.)

Try this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/88544671@N07/9016101906/in/photostream you should find that it hugs any terrain, all wheels in contact, without any suspension while remaining level. Now try some equally simple arrangement with 3 pendular axles, see how level this stays This is what I meant. (Note to Mod: Picture found on web and copied, but it looks to be the same one in as in Sariels book, p205. If this is a copyright infringement, please remove it.)

Boxerlego, Hopey; You would not need 2, rh & lh.... Produce one 60o axle connector and for 'handedness', just turn it round.

Sorry to bring this up... Perhaps I am mistaken, but... As I view your photos it appears that you have 3 pendular axles. If this is indeed the case, your truck will not work, it will roll over at the slightest lateral incline. Only the front axle can be pendular in a 6x6 configuration, the rear axles must work either; independently, or, have suspension pivoting on each side between the axles. (It is called 'Walking beam suspension') Look at these: here, here and here Loads of good examples of 6x6 off road trucks at this website. Of course, if I am wrongly interpreting your pictures, ignore all the above. Another thought.... If you are still stuck for body ideas.... You may get inspired to try to build one of the trucks at that site..... Many of them are screaming out: 'Build me with Lego... I am angular and easy' (Maybe it is just me that can hear that.... )

Hello Benjamin, I was interested to see your trucks, this is my special interest. My goal is ultra realism, or as close as I can get, so I noticed something that will take seconds to alter.... Twin wheels have a gap in between, I see you joined your wheels with 3l connector pegs, you get the correct gap with the wheels at each end of the pegs rather than pushed tight together. Have a look at my Magnum here: here or Flickr So, I think your stuff is brilliant.... Can not wait to see how this Land Rover turns out... Good luck

Sorry, bit late with this... I agree with your conclusion, probably some contaminant in the ABS, just unfortunate it was at a stress point. I expect you already know... But under stress (beyond mechanical strength of cross section) it would be expected for ABS to deform rather than break (you would have noticed this), however, after prolonged undue stresses the material will fail. This would be highly unlikely in this application. I know.... I have bored you now.... I'll stop