Fallenangel

Actually, a 1x1 is 8mm on a side, so it'd be about 94cm by 45cm wouldn't it?

That's sort of what I was getting it. If it cost $580 in the States, just how much would it be in, say, New Zealand...

Because you've often misspelled things with 'er' as opposed to 'or', e. g. Terminator, Executor, LuxorV. Didn't that guy die? It's funny, whenever somebody mentions Expanded Universe I always think of the '90s stuff (Thrawn, Dark Empire, X-wing, etc.) more than anything else, even though the older books (e. g. Han and Lando Trilogies) are more established. The Force Unleashed never really struck me as Expanded Universe, just more a video game spinoff which isn't necessarily canon (like Battlefront), unlike KOTOR or Dark Forces.

I'm confused... where is it? By a 'Separatist Dreadnought you are referring to a Providence carrier?

I'd rather have some more Prequel battlepacks as opposed to '08 series battlepacks (like we've been getting), but eh... I thought we already had the T-6? Or does an 'ambassadorial shuttle' refer to that Eta thing? $580?! That's more than 10179 cost! Would someone really pay so much for a set? This sounds more like it could be a good AFOL display rather than a LEGO set. I know we usually don't criticize others' ideas here, but $580 in my opinion is just... too much. Even with that many Jedi (and only five B2s?)

I can understand the stability issue, but I thought leaving that angle out would change the shape of the rear significantly. It does taper in towards the back, and leaving that section straight will change the look and the amount of greeble you'll be able to include. So I guess it's more or a shape issue than a proportion issue - but in any case, the aesthetics will be drastically altered. EDIT: Is cavegod right? I'm not sure...

Gunner, this is truly fantastic! A great example of what can be done in the midi-scale. The use of the core from 8099 was an excellent choice (something several people stressed while dicussing Blackknight112’s rendition), and the fact that you’ve done all this in LDD is even more impressive! I think my favorite part of this would have to be the bridge tower area, because you’ve captured that area really accurately, which of course looks quite nice. The inclusion of all eight turbolaser batteries is another nice detail, as well as the boosters which look great. Moving on to areas that I think could be improved... Like 8099, this model appears to have a noticeable gap in the front of the nose. I don’t know whether you could actually seal the gap while retaining the core, but at the very least you could put some bricks in there so it wouldn’t look so empty. Judging from this picture, I think the hangar bay (and maybe just the whole ship in general) is a tad fat. Again, I think this could be due to the use of the 8099 core. It does appear that you’ve done some work in making the core thinner, but maybe just a bit more. Speaking of the top view, it looks like you’ve got some angles to fix. It’s definitely too thin in that area, as well as too rectangular, which kills the overall shape. You can also see that the red stripe down the middle could be shortened slightly. Like 8099 it looks like this has some random dark grey here and there. Now there does appear to be some dark spots on the Venator’s hull, but I think your placement of the spots could be better. As for the approaching ship, that looks an awful lot like a Providence carrier... KielDaMan, I think that the bridge is supposed to be gray. I don’t know where that CGI model came from, but it’s certainly not from the film.

Very interesting, siseon – you’ve done a very nice job of replicating many of the best points of Larry Lars’ T-47 – with some adjustments, I can see. Though I don’t see anything wrong with borrowing others’ ideas so long as the original builders are acknowledged – heaven knows how much I borrowed off of Brucey-wan’s X-wing. (It’s not copying, it’s research! ) The scale looks pretty good, and the red highlights are very nice. There are some points I think could be improved on Larry Lars’ rendition, and I think taking these suggestions into account could also make this more of your own MOC than a copy of someone else’s. (That’s another thing I did.) So, here goes... A significant issue is the guns. I’m sure Brickdoctor mentioned in the presentation of his T-47 that most people make the guns too thin, and beefed up his guns with Technic pins accordingly. I, too, think that the guns on your model appear too skeletal, giving the model a somewhat awkward appearance – they need to be beefed up more. There are also a few alignment issues you’re going to want to keep in mind while doing this – certain parts of the guns have to line up with certain features of the vehicle or else it’ll look disjointed like the LEGO set. Another point is the cockpit. The T-47’s cockpit should angle upwards towards the rear. On the contrary, it appears as if your model actually has a downward slope in that area, which throws off the overall shape. Plates with handlebars and clips should do the trick. Furthermore, there is a one-stud area that is flat, when there is clearly no such area on the real model – it should be a straight cockpit-wing transition. This will make that area of your model look cleaner. There’s some random cheese slopes around the gunner’s cockpit – I would suggest removing those, as they add unnecessary angles to the model and thus make it appear more messy. I do wish the front could be made a bit cleaner, but as Brickdoctor has told me that really is the best solution for the nose at this scale, so I’ll leave that be. Part of the power couplings (not the inner gun housings, as brickartist called them) should be parallel to the harpoon deck in the rear – the structures are essentially a flatter version of the repulsor drive units. The 45 slope brick you’ve placed there doesn’t quite do the trick. Actually, I think the same could be said for the 33 slope bricks you’ve used for the outer edges of the repulsor drive units – the angle is wrong and it makes that area look too wide (causing the laser cannons to be displaced outward as well). That area needs to be much more compact. There’s a seemingly random bit of greebling around the pilot’s cockpit – what’s up with that? It looks messy. The T-47 is actually pretty lacking in surface greebling. Your harpoon deck is too flat – it needs some small plateaus around the harpoon and a sloping area leading to the gunner’s cockpit as seen here. Including that will hopefully make it a bit less bland in that area. The grilles look good, but you’ve overlooked an important detail – the plug for the T-47’s tow cable, as seen in this picture. (It’s the gap in the center of the grilles near the bottom.) Whatever do you mean? You know, I left a page of suggestions on Brickdoctor's model as well (when he posted it here on Eurobricks) - you may want to take a look at that. EDIT: I think I know why it looked kinda strange - the laser cannons are positioned parallel to each other when they should angle inwards. Having them straight makes them appear as if they flare outwards (since they're not bent in) which honestly looks pretty weird.

Yep. On the other hand, this magnet set will let us AFOLs update our TIE pilot stock with the new helmet (it is the one from 8087, right? Chinese plastic or not, that helmet certainly looks better than the old black stormtrooper helmet). Which reminds me - despite minifigures being the main selling point this year, Vader is still neckless. Meanwhile, Sebulba and the Ewoks get completely new molds...

It's occurred to me that you might be doing this on purpose. Is it a trademark of some sort? From his expression, it looks like Mace doesn't want any Gamorrean bacon...

I see you haven't yet fixed that angle in the back... you're going to want to do so now before it screws up your proportions. As for the detail... it's truly amazing. The greebling looks spot-on and even the discoloration is in all the right places.

Well, it proves my point... EDIT: The discussion over the magnet set in the Rumors thread made me wonder - are the legs of the minifigures in the magnet sets the same as those in normal minifigures, design-wise? (Do they have the two pegs connecting into the minifigure torso, etc.)

Are you under 14, by any chance? Just, the style of your posts... In any case, allow me to explain that in general, members creating multiple threads for the same topic is discouraged because it clutters up the forum with useless posts. Imagine if every member did this - over time the forum would become quite disorganized! If you're not happy with what LEGO has given you, I would recommend starting from scratch. It saves you a lot of fiddling with the set and can lead to some pretty amazing stuff (more often than not, far superior to LEGO's sets). I will add that from what I've seen, the vast majority of the "MOCs" on MOCpages are either minimal mods to the sets, below LEGO's quality, or both. You're better off looking through AFOL-based sites (such as this one) or even checking out model kits for inspiration (which is what I like to do).

A couple of nice things about the Scimitar no one's pointed out yet... Hey, the nose does open up! Yes! Brickbuilt engines at last(though they're just stickers, but that's a quick fix). Landing gear is nice, but the bottom really looks unfinished. Anyone else reminded of this guy...? Well, we could get starship battlepacks in the future (MINI ships, of course) which could be... interesting. It would definitely be a way to get all the capital ships we haven't had (EF76, Gallofree, and Executor, to name a few) - but I suppose that's a discussion for another thread.

:laugh: * *(Fingah bang bang... bangbangbang...) Heh. What's funny is that the stormtrooper helmets' lenses were green, so everything really did look green from the inside - I think Mark Hamill mentioned it in the "Making of" book.

Frolando22, I do believe you are referring to plates rather than studs – and in LEGO jargon the three you described are referred to as 1x1 tiles, “studs” (since they’re literally one stud in diameter) and 1x2 tiles, respectively. StoutFiles, while this mosaic is certainly far from awful,even for a LEGO mosaic, I can’t help but think it’s just too blocky. I mean, 118 studs by 56 studs – that’s nearly a meter wide. You could really do a lot with plates at that size. I’m not sure whether you are trying to maintain a “blocky” look (to show the non-AFOLs what they expect to see in the manner of the miniland models at LEGOland). Is it not customary to use wing plates and such in a LEGO mosaic? Because at this size, they really would help if accuracy is what you’re going for... and furthermore, if this is a non-LEGO gig you’re making the display for, surely the AFOL community would appreciate a more learned use of plates and less blockiness in appearance... (if you’re going for a strictly blocky LEGO mosaic feel, you can pretty much disregard the rest of this post.) Do you intend to utilize multiple (3-4) layers of plates or only a single layer? You mentioned trans-clear plates for the X-wing’s afterburner glow (for which magenta is a pretty close color, though I don’t know if they have that in LEGO) so I’m assuming at least two. That’s enough to use some corner and wing plates to better approximate the round shape of the Death Star in the style of 7778 (or even hinged plates, if you’re willing to have a non-uniform surface). For additional details, some inspection of the source material might help. And surely adding a dot of some sort in the middle to indicate the superlaser crater would be possible? Continuing discussion of the X-wings, jumper and rail plates could make the wings thinner than a single stud, and I know from this that the angle of the sides of the rear fuselage cross-section can be approximated at this size with 2x3 wing plates. 2x2 round plates could be used for the wingtip laser cannons and maybe 3x3s for the engine glow. Not sure why you’ve made the wings different colors (is it shadow? Because the wings look pretty much all the same color in that scene). The fuselage color could be white in this case because i would be more eye-catching (and X-wings are a dirty white, after all) and provide more contrast with the blackness of space.

No, it’s definitely too fat, looking at the overhead and side views. You can tell from this picture that the “clamshell” structures on either side (sporting the laser cannons and escape pods) should be thinner than the head, and from this picture that they are considerably narrower. Admittedly it’s not as bad on your model as it was on, say, 7665 Republic Cruiser, but it’s still there. Making the slope behind the head consistent instead of combining a 33 slope with a 2x4 would also improve the look (but don’t use curved bricks: they will ruin the look of the ship!). It’s not so much that the docking rings are too wide than that those engines really are too small. The length you’ve added in Universe mode looks considerably better, but it’s just got to be wider. (In this picture you can also see what I meant by the outermost engines – they really do kind of stick out from the inner engines and aren’t so much part of the engine “block” in the rear. Also, part of the engines should be blocky - I wouldn't use the 4x4 cones. I’ve also noticed that the laser cannons on the “clamshell” structures are ridiculously oversized; in my opinion minifigure levers would be much closer to the actual size and would also allow the guns to pivot (which is a plus). The section with the fins tapering in toward the docking ring doesn’t look right; I know it’s LDD, but surely there must be some way to arrange them so that they angle in towards that section? Kudos on including the main reactor which LEGO omitted on both 10019 and 10198. As a matter of fact, I have to praise the elongated look you've given the ship - it just looks so much better (and is much more accurate) than LEGO's contorted 10019. However, I would remove the grey corner bricks in front of the engine block – as you can see in the pictures I’ve linked to, it should really be quite flat there. This is indeed a good rendition of one of my favorite ships from the Original Trilogy, and if you follow the suggestions I've given I think it could look even better.

So could someone tell me how and why they were frozen? And does this mean Anakin is back to his old whiny self again (since carbon freezing induces changes of character as seen in Han's behavior in Jedi) and Ahsoka's finally about to turn to the dark side? Temporary blindness... more retcons...

Okay, I haven't seen the episode, but I read this... What the megabloks? They froze Obi-wan Kenobi in carbonite?

You can delay the damage with the tips mentioned above, but it's inevitable and one of the reasons I think minifigures are somewhat overrated (e. g. they're not all that durable). I wouldn't handle my minifigures so much if I wanted to preserve their joints (and I don't). In general my policy with minifigures is:

This is pretty good, considering the limitations of LDD. My main complaint is that it's too fat around the middle. And why does everyone make the docking rings stick out so much? Hmm... Not so much bigger as longer, I think, though I'm not sure. Also, you may want to emphasize the displacement of the outermost engines a bit more - they should be attached slightly differently from the inner engines. At present, the engines look too uniform.

Well, as long as he uses 7140... Yeah, that's where we come in... Actually, I stopped building around minifigures in my MOCs, as have several others (e. g. Brucey-wan and Pepa Quin build in stud-to-foot scale, and Gareth and Reto build exclusively UCS). In the case of the former, they stick in minifigures because they happen to fit and are about the right scale - they don't significantly impact the quality of the MOC (much like brickartist's recent BARC). And in most cases the results do look better. I partially feel the same way, but (and I can't believe I'm saying this) I'm going to have to go with Clone O'Patra on this one - while I don't particularly like the designs of the stock sets, I can overlook that aspect because of the scale of the diorama as a whole. Besides, only nitpicky AFOLs would notice inaccuracies in the sets in a diorama of this size (or care, really). Still, I do wish he had used 10179 as opposed to 4504, because then his Echo Base would have been even bigger...

But those wings are supposed to sag, in the fashion of the N-1 or the Eta-2 - in fact, part of the reason I display the set on a stand is to allow them to sag a bit.

According to Shop@Home, no. But we have a separate thread for this (I think it was called 'Star Wars Sets Anyone?').

Yeah, the 'several fighters have broken off from the main group' scene... Ah, they run away as soon as he turns his back...