legoman666

What I find funny is that BrickJournal is still running ads for ME.

Looks good! I'm can't remember if Cale independently asked for Gulf Oil decals or if I suggested them to him.

I usually print on clear vinyl with white ink. Sometimes I'll die cut lettering/logos out of colored vinyl if its big enough. Send me a message on FB or via email to okbrickworks@gmail.com if youre interested.

Cale sent me the artwork for the next batch of decals and as I was going through them, I came across the Reading one and immediately started collecting the pieces. Looks slick in green!

I made a Hamburger too after seeing Ecmo's. Kind of pricey in brown. I just used whatever brown I already had, so it's kind of mottled.

A bit late to the game,

Right, I'm using home turned aluminum wheels. Track voltage is 24V. The super caps provide enough juice to last about 45 seconds. I developed this system a few years ago to keep my locomotives moving through 3rd party plastic track. As long as I have enough powered 9v straight track to keep the caps juiced up, my locomotives will keep going forever.

https://shop.lego.com/en-US/LEGO-Power-Functions-IR-Speed-Remote-Control-8879

I never made a build list, I built the first (MoPac) from scratch by staring at photos, then the other 5 are based off the first. The electronics are easier explained by a photo:

I like your trucks, but aren't those black pistols kind of pricey?

Cheeseburger

I've moved the throw to the other side on a handful of switches. It's a pain.

Huh? There are 3 3rd party motor controllers out there already.

Here's all of them together for the first time.

Very nice nose. I need to hook you up with some portholes.

I've never been able to get my eBay/Amazon 2mm rod to fit in the bearings. The real Lego axles are actually like 1.90mm. BrickTracks's Scott made Cale and I some that are the correct size, which are what's included with the BMR kits. If you ask him, he may sell them to you too.

Thanks. The caps are a very temporary electrical storage that allow my locomotives to travel over unpowered track sections. They charge in about 12-15 seconds and can power the locomotive for about a minute. As long as all of my straight track is powered, the locomotive can make it through my BrickTracks R120 and 4D Brix R148 ultimate crossovers without having to resort to batteries. Oh sorry, yes it's the XL. It can get quite loud :)

:) I don't use any software to plan my builds. I've never used LDD at all, and I've used stud.io to recreate one of my locomotives after I had already built it out of brick.

It's a pfx brick I spent about 115 nights in hotels last year. So while I have lots of free time in the evenings when I'm away from home, I of course don't have any access to my Lego! (Sitting in a hotel room right now in fact)

I think? I honestly didn't look too hard. All I know is that for some reason #8444 is always grouped with the other 6 in promo shots. Thanks all!

I've resorted to turning my own aluminum wheels so I can pick up track power and use L motors. For 9v track I just wait to get lucky on eBay. I do have a bunch of ME Models curved metal track though. I make hybrid systems that recharge super fast so I can still use cool stuff like BrickTracks r120 and 4d brix r148 crossovers. It's tough living the 9v dream.

Greetings. Back from a 5 month hiatus with a new locomotive. My previous 6 builds have been Union Pacific's Heritage SD70 units. There is this awesome photo of the whole group; in the photo is unit 8444. Frankly I don't know why its #8444 specifically, but I decided to build it so I could recreate the shot. Start from the ground up. My previous locomotives have had a tendency to eject the gears in the truck down on to the track when hauling a heavy load. This new truck design fixes that. All of this needs to fit inside. Oh boy. The rectangular blocks are placeholders. Testing the drive-train and transmission. I'm really bad at taking photos along the way. By this point its almost done, lol. I got an early copy of the PFX Brick to try out. The PFX Brick is a bluetooth/IR motor/sound/light controller that is very customizable. There is a PC/Mac program that is used to configure the thing, then it can be controlled either via Bluetooth or IR. Every button on the controller can be programmed to do whatever you want. My profile for this SD70 has ch1 left knob set to increase/decrease motor speed of both motors at the same time (even though they are on different channels on the PFX Brick). Ch1 right knob controls the horn and the bell. Ch1 left button slowly decelerates. Ch1 right button reverses direction. Left & right button at the same time is E-stop. Ch2, 3 & 4 all are programmed to do other things too, mostly different sounds. I printed my own decals on my Roland BN-20. (I take custom orders.) The rear grilles (the ladders) on the side are actually functional, there's a CC/CV regulator in there for the super cap bank that needs airflow. I'm particularly happy with the way the fins just behind the cab turned out. In real life there are only 3, but centering them in the 3 stud wide space was difficult. The cab windows are very tricky too, they're just wedged in there. They don't fall out if you turn it upside down, but they can rattle around. I made a short video to show some of the sound features. Unfortunately it's very difficult to drive and record at the same time.

I've found that the newer revision of the claw likes to pop off. The older ones will stay on forever. I think this is the old one: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=48729b#T=C I may have them backwards though.

Excellent review. Glad you like the decals, I print them for BMR. For a more forgiving application, you can float the decal on soapy water. They are completely waterproof; ink, adhesive, and vinyl. I also recommend cleaning the surface of the Lego with a lint free cloth and some alcohol.

There are some race car thingies where you smash a bellow and the air pushes a car forward. Maybe some come in black?