Boxerlego

I am going to point this out because I've been using the steering knuckle arm with ball joint for this 2 speed transmission and came up with a way to use the ball joint as a way to determine optimal gear mesh position with the adjacent gear.

I certainly have one or two 20t gear somewhere that actually slide down the axle when held vertical. Probably not the drive gear of choice but that is all I have when it comes to a sliding drive gear. I agree with Mbmc, I don't think steering knuckle arm with ball joint is good either because the ball joint will rotate inside the socket and will distribute itself unevenly on the gear and axle shaft.

Certainly. Not exactly. There is a 8t gear out that is without friction that would certainly work in this case. The bevel gear is probably suited best for this direct style of gear engagement demonstrated by Hrafn and Splat. Excellent video. Sure the transmission is a risky design to pull off and some problems are around it. Tho it does prove several points. One key point it proves is that call for more gears especially bevel gears. I love that it is a sequential gearbox design because one of the benefits of this design is that it does need to use a typical clutch.

Wow! That is incredible!! The pattern design on the rope looks awesome.

I've constructed an Axle setup that use this part here as a lock that prevents a key liftarm to be removed from the design because it has a that extra .5 length at the end of that axle that hang out. Then on top of that you use the differential gear to lock 20t gear with 5.5 axle with stop in place. If I had done what Lego Otaku has shown in the above post with the axle connectors preventing the other locking axles to be pushed out then most of the axle design would have been permanent build. By far it is the most intricate locking build that I have devised currently.

There are several ways to go at building a shifting mechanism for the transmission. A simple compact shifting mechanism would be awesome. I attempted to build a automatic 6 speed transmission with a direct dive motor that works of the drive motors rpm to make all the shift possible. The size of everything together was very large fit for any large scale design out there and feels difficult to go through all the gears on ground. Theoretically it is the best idea to me because the only thing that is electrically connected to the transmission is the driving motor.

I do something similar. I sorting my parts based on function and size. For instance I have two bags full of gears, one bag has the all large gears and differentials and the other bag has the smaller gears and transmission parts. I do the same thing with my axles too. However sorting Lego bricks from Technic bricks is a little more complicated here and one thing I don't do is sort my parts based on that fact if it is studded or not.

I believe a strong and reliable RC gear box design is out there. Something with both the necessary torque to go up hills and speed that will exceeded the range of the IR receiver in a second. Reverse will be carried out by the motor just by reversing the direction of rotation. There are several crucial aspect for the transmission you must consider first if you want to achieve great performance out it.

There is a power source in that machine in that video and It is called a spring and that stores energy.

Thanks! There is a bunch of stuff I want to talk about on this. Yes the PF speed remote would work better with the antenna to transmit to the PF receiver. It uses a RF transmitter and receiver making the wireless communication link between the two devices. The controller is simple to make. All you need is an antenna and the transmitter. Also I got some extra parts to run the all 4 channels down one antenna. I might start my own topic on this because it is a topic in it self besides the OP wants to completely remove the receiver and Truly put in place a Third-Party RC Unit. Which is still pretty cool.

Sorry for the Triple Bump But I finally got all the bugs Out and manage to make my own Lego Compatible RC circuit. Here is a test Go.

Here is something for you to think about. All I need Is this transmitter and proper antenna and I am done with this side of the mod.

Wow! That must of took some time to make. I would like to see the drive shaft and how the engine is connected. I even wondering if there is a real clutch installed on that.

The main question that is behind this third-party stuff is, How is it compatible with Lego? When it come to electrical circuits everything is compatible. I bought a bunch of electrical components to build a custom RC circuit... It cost me around 20$. I spare all the details and tell everyone this. You can either buy the cheap RC car and use that electrical system to power your model and mod of that. Or you can go buy the expensive RC car stuff and have fun with that. I have great success in using the 8879 speed control to control the power to the 18 Volt motor with the motor control circuit you can see below. Also the controller of choice for me is the 8879 speed controller and that is what I am going to keep on using. The picture of the 8879 controller shows it with the antenna on the table below, this is a Idea that I have been contemplating. The video I made here shows what I was able to do with the 18 volt motor and motor control circuit plus all that was able to hook up and work with the V1 IR receiver. Size is the most important factor and that underlying fact is you are building with Lego which can take any size shape as you want to construct it to.

Yes it is full of surprises, I just notice that the shims inner hole's edge has indeed cut a very thin grove around the nub on the differential and there is a very little thread of plastic showing this. It is so small that taking a picture of it doesn't do it justice. Maybe you can see it in this picture here. Edit: This picture is big 4000 x 2248 in size so you going to need to zoom out to see the whole picture. Here is the deep link to the picture. http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Boxerlego/Lego-parts/Differential-Spacer/metal_damage.jpg

Here is a comparison picture of my control differential and one that has been shimmed. Notice how the metal wear skips around the differential and reflects the gear pattern. This a sign of the applied driving gear force on the differential and that portion is being pressed against the metal shim. Truly there is no visible sign of there being any plastic material on the metal shim as there is with the lego differential. Maybe if the shim was put under a microscope then we could see some material.

I see that green one and I see that the math works... it was just that yellow one and its distance is a hypothetical gap. What if we took some of the yellow and red gear sets and see if some teeth could be added or subtracted to the gear so it can mesh with the other. For example the 14t gear and the 36t gear, just take off two teeth from the 36t gear for a 34t gear and now the new gear set is 14t to 34t and that can fit within the 3 studs distance

4: 5 16: 3 14: 2

I will say this. Magnet strength increase as you get closer and closer to the magnet. If you want the magnets magnetic force at its maximum field strength it will need to be right next to the magnet. If the magnet is not moving then as while your moving away from the magnet the magnetic force is going down hill drastically. Which is the better force push or pull. Do you think this guy as strong as he is able pull the train do you think he can push the train from behind?? Think about it your trying to use a stationary magnet to push against a magnet train.Edit: His hands are pulling his legs are pushing and body is at an angle. Every step he takes must be made on a wooden rail road tie. Never is there a point of weakness. It takes the entire strength of every part of his body to do that. Same can be said for a magnet.

Before I say what I found out. I want to clarify why I made this thread. This thread was created to be informational and show the material factor that is involved when it comes to shimming up the differential. It is very possible for the idea Phoxtane suggested to happen when the shim material is more durable then LEGO. Now everyone knows its fact that metal will cut in to LEGO and this is the standard realm of thought, but the fact is that for metal to be able cut into LEGO their must be a sufficiently sharp edge on the metal object to make the cut. Now understand the metal shim has no sharp edges and the shims flat metal surface is pressed against the flat Lego surfaces. When two flat surface are rubbing against each other both objects tend to wear each other down and basically to figure out which material is wearing down faster then the other is based around the hardness of the material. Now for a quote from Wikipedia about ABS Plastic/LEGO "The most Important mechanical properties of ABS are impact resistance and toughness." In the picture above we can see the shinning sign of metal wear that is on the differential and is evidence that the metal shim is losing material. Hear this, currently the metal shim is next to this part . When I first started using the shim against the differential it was a somewhat tight fit in that part making the differential not so easy to rotate, so I did not build with that frame style and had to rely upon the style of building seen in the example picture. Now the shim has developed the proper thickness and the differential is now able to rotate with less resistance in that frame then it did the first time. If the shim was made of ABS plastic then it would be consider a Lego on Lego surface and the rate of wear would be dependent on the quality/grade of plastic. Think about this. What if the differential did not need a shim and the gear border was thick enough to provide a solid support with the 20t bevel gear, what would happen?

@Hrafn Amazing what math and Lego can do, but have a look at this. When you did the math around the 28t and the 20t gear to receive an answer that is 3L spacing. Now here is a spread sheet that is 10 years old showing the spacing and quality of the potential gear mesh, Note: that this spread includes the 28t gear meshing with others gear but not the 32t. The mesh quality between the 28t to the 20t gear defining color is yellow. @DrJB Exactly, I want to elaborate a little more on the comparison statement between the new 3L to old 4L differential. We can see that new differential's ring gear has become a half plate bevel gear and the nubs on the ends old differential has been sized down off the design allowing it to fit with in smaller dimensions of studdless design. Overall we can see that the first ever differential gear teeth count has remained exactly the same as the transition from studded to studdless happen along with a significance change in design towards the drive gear.

Look at this Phoxtane, Axles have corners,edges you will need to use that edge to your advantage so you can distinguish the difference between axles and pins. Lego has the perfect set of parts for this, here is a picture of one . The edges of the axle fits perfectly inside the rail. Edit: It would even be possible to distinguish between parts like these two parts here. And this axle here And also this one too .

Size is an issue for gears above 20T. Just look at the new 3L differential and compared that to the old 4L differential where size was seen an issue when it came to building. It is all about proportions. Would the 28/32t gear be like the 4L differential and require a even style of building to mesh with other gears.

Look at this first. In this corner is the Lego differential and in the other there is a galvanized zinc steel washer. What do you think will happen between the two when the washer is use to shim the differential gear against the bevel gear (example picture)? Which one will WIN? Do you think the stone cold steel washer will destroy the Lego differential or will it be the other way around? Regardless of what is consider Official building techniques. This is about real applied science and not some preconception.

There is no problem with the way that grey axle and its angle. That is what the u joint is designed for. The U joint are even phased correctly.