Boxerlego

Good work! I've seen flex coupling used for the motors that power washer machines. My question is where is the input shaft at here, is it the blue gear.

Try using a ribbed hose connected with a friction-less pin to the rotating platform.

Check this out I made this awhile back. I used 555 timer to control the speed of rotation.

He is an Idea to branch out on see if you can incorporate the servo with the valve design.

Wow! You have a good collection of custom parts growing. Keep up the great work!

Sounds Great! The motor that I used with the 9398 crawler has a 5 pole armature which it has good amount of torque behind it. Tho, the motor max rpm is around 8000 at 12volts. The rpm on the wheels was around 400 with a decent amount of acceleration to reach the top speed with the crawler but the thermal fuse inside the V2 receiver would cause speed hiccups on the motor around 5 minutes of use. It just depends if the motor can surpass the Buggy motor with standard Lego gearing.

Yea it turned out faster than the original 9398, But the lack of torque made it stall on the smallest of hills.

Its the right video. The drill motor video part starts around at 4:07. I tried to make the video link begin at that time frame. Let me tell you a story. Awhile back I put two custom motors on the 9398 crawler to see how the v2 receiver handles them. It worked fine, just like if it was powered by the L motor, but because of the planetary gear train is not there on the custom motor, the gear ratio is no where near the L motor design. With the number of limitations going on with the setup I was surprised at the speed that was achieved. Edit: With JB weld.

There is going to be wear and tear due to using a drill motor. But you in order to minimize that wear your going haft to contain that power flow because the motor will expose all the weak areas in your build. But first there are some problems that must be solved before tying to use the drill motor. When I first started testing my drill motor, I quickly found out that the motor needs way more power from the PF battery box and PF receiver than it will handle. So I decided it would be best to power it from an DC adapter. Here is a quick of this test run.

Yes I've notice both versions. I cant replicate that ball socket distance of 5 studs on a wheel hub designed nor can I replicate that ball socket distance of 6 studs either, The ball socket distance that is achieved with this wheel hub setup here is 7 studs and is just too big to fit inside the unimog's wheel rim, a wheel hub with a 5 studs ball socket distance on a wheel hub would fits well inside the unimog's wheel rim. Why don't you use the Unimog wheel rim size as your base for your wheel hub design? I understand you can reinforce the arm for some hub designs but that completely disregards the process of building with the ball joints overall. The ball is 10 mm big in diameter and the distance across a brick is 8mm. That means 2mm of travel must be distributed evenly across the ball socket connection and that requires some force. I do understand the parts design and the forces involved and using it properly. The mechanical behaviors behind the ball socket plus a axle hole stack on top appeared just to demanding on each other optimal structural form. I was speculative on the Idea of having a ball socket with a axle hole. I had no experimental proof whether the connection was going to work or break and because of this I focused my thoughts on the mechanical behaviors about both the ball socket and axle hole and I deduced it was going to break simple as that. Thanks for confirming my thoughts on the ball socket with axle hole connection. I've already expressed some of my thoughts here on wheel hubs But I would like to see if the CV ball joints could really handle the power of a XL motor or even better, I know the U joint can.

The forces that is going to be put into this wheel hub will rip apart that axle connection when you think about. He is wanting to reduces the thickness of the axle hole for a ball socket. Designs matter, If you want to have a ball socket to have the optimal hold over the ball joint, do you think that over time having a axle that is able to go in and out that axle hole is not going to spread that hole out weakening the ball socket connection as well. I made a ball socket wheel hub.

That Is awesome! Find out everything you can about the motor. Having that technical data sheet will help in figuring out how much the expected power output of the motor is and how well the Lego Ir receiver can handle the motors load. I am very interested here and what you plan to do with the motor. Will the motor have a fixed gear on its shaft?

The ball socket on a wheel hub needs to remain as a ball socket. By having both a ball socket hole and a axle hole in one design, has thinned out that axle hole inside the socket and that make the axle hole a weak friction connection with the other wheel hub designs out there. This is here for comparison

This looks like a great find because the motor looks like it fits perfectly inside a 3 stud length. The motor sounds very fast in the video. Did you buy this motor off the web or did you salvage it out of something? I prefer buying the motors over salvaging them. The big problem with salvaging motors out of old power drills and printers and other stuff is going out and getting another one also there is the risk of the motor being worn down enough where it is on the verge of breaking.

Nice work. This is how it starts. Do you have any technical data on the motor?

My opinion is based on the current state with 3D printers are viewed as a prototyping place to develop. Sure there is a big difference in appearance and structure when it comes down to 3D printed parts and the LEGO parts. I would like to see a 3D printer that is able to work with a custom color filament where you can insert a custom color scheme that you can choose from a computer and inject that inside the 3D printed part where ever you want. I think the injection molding techniques are vastly superior to 3D printing when it comes to mass production.

ATTENTION!!! Here is your chance to win a 3D printer. Click here and GO to lasersaber youtube page and type "Enter me in the SeeMeCNC 3D Printer GiveAway" in the comments for a chance to win. Shipping must be paid by the winner. To figure out how much shipping is, go to the *snip* and put the Orion Delta 3D Printer in your cart to get the figure for how much the shipping and handling will cost. *snip*

It is all about proportion and the worm gear proportions is x:1. Having a x:1 ratio means the every revolution of the worm gear/drive shaft is turning exactly one gear tooth so inorder to turn a 24 tooth gear around one time would take 24 revolutions of the worm gear/drive shaft.

WOW!!! Looks awesome.

I would like to see more ideas that could be implemented here. I think the universal wheel hub is great idea to start with. It's probably the best way to work out all the unseen problems that are ahead. Though to be fair, the wheel hub will probably be specialized part with a limited outside application. To incorporate every suspension setup in one simple design would need to incorporate a building guide to show all what you can do and how to build it the right way and that is why I think another approach on the ball joints is needed here, not only to ensure a consistent quality of performance from design to design, it will also further improve upon the form and function here.

Thanks! I added some more tracks to it. I will put up some more picture of this later.

The only big issue I see with this is the ball joints and I have several bionicle ball joints and some are very loose and some are very tight. What is your preferences on ball joints here. I think a redesign on the ball joints is needed to ensure a consistent quality of performance here. I like the CV joint. I got that part and I thought about using that part too.

Thanks Gee, But I not going to use a differential. I'm going to use two motors to power the tracks. One motor for each track side. I did some several comparison test with the Regular XL motor against the upgraded XL motor. Both motors are able to power the tracks well at a 1:1 gear ratio but the when there is a overdrive ratio you can certainly see the difference in speed performance between the two motors.

Thanks, I see what your saying. It does make a great tracked vehicle if I were to put some wheels on the front. Then I would be able to have a form of steering for this.

Simple fast fun tank power by one Upgraded XL motor.