Carsten Svendsen

I have moved quite a few times recently and only just now got a proper work area with lots of room. I used to buy almost every Technic set every year, however, I've been slacking off quite a bit for the past few years - since 2013 to be exact, with only 3 purchases since then, because of my life (I was short on money from 2013 and moved to New Zealand 2016 and it's been a wild ride during the past few years). Anyway, here are some pictures of my collection if you would like to see what kind of accumulation can be acquired over 20 years (I got my first LEGO set in 1998 which was 8482 Cybermaster) Here on the left side of the table, we've got all of the essential liftarms and pins On the right hand side of the table, we've got all of the axles, you could ever want - except 3 and 5 with stop, I really need to get some more... In the back there are boxes of panels, technic bricks, flexy stuff, various pieces and other essentials. In front of that is my main parts assortment. Most drawers hold 2 spaces while the bottom three ones are fully occupied by one type. Next to that are my boxes with gears - gears for going around cornes in one, and gears for going in a straight line in the other. In the assortment boxes, I've got black and grey bricks and also various pieces. My main drawers here contain all of my straight liftarms as well as connectors and crossblocks. Here on the floor I've got some yellow pieces that I use once in a while, as well as a bucket of small wheels that I dig through more often than you would think. I've also got a few big LEGO set boxes filled with bigger wheels stashed away somewhere but I rarely need those which is why they're not under the table. The two boxes under the table contain non-essential LEGO pieces that comes in handy once in a while. Note worthy mentions are: Engine parts Bionicle parts Stickers and stickered parts wheel hubs colored bricks shovels other colors of LEGO like orange, blue and green Older style panels Spare pins and old grey parts That's basically it, I've got so much that I can build anything I want - at least that's what I tell my self. Realistically, I haven't even finished one MOC for like 10 years. But I try and that's the important part. Right now I'm building something that attaches to a tractor, and it's almost done. You won't see it however until I've build the tractor too.

The joint is fine, it might be a bit jerky though. Universal joints have a wide range of movement.

I added another two bionicle pieces as it looked rather funny otherwise. Also the outer two panels are only fixed on a rotating hinge. You would have to fix that down properly somehow I didn't have a red panel in 3x11 so a substitute was required. That panel only comes in 1 set and that was way back in 2014 As for the axle units, they are good, no issues here, steering and suspension works flawlessly.

It's not like I knew that yesterday when he just posted the bodywork today. Do you think I can see into the future?

The height of the body hasn't changed at all, I just replaced the 2x4 liftarms with a 9L + 4L liftarms.

Could someone also give me the physical dimensions of those wheels so that I can see if I can find some substitutes for them?

Funny you mention it, not too long ago I decided to sort out my chain links. Some I recently bought new from USA and they hold together like they're glued, almost impossible to get apart again, very sturdy. The other links I have are allright most of them, but some of them are very very weak. I found that all the links with the text LEGO on one side OR a big (C) on the same side were all very weak. I had quite a few of those and threw them in the rubbish. The good ones have a small (c) on the side, barely readable to old peoples eyes and should be much much stronger

I'll build this first thing in the morning Regarding illegal connections of 3l pins or 2l with stop, I am not condoning that practice at all. You are weakening the connection that could've been stronger by constructing it another way, and the pin it self will not extend fully inside the connected pieces. Yes it's very possible and it might hold just fine, but it just bothers me so much to even think that I'm going to do that. This here is going to hold even better and requires no illegal connections. There are always better options.

Even the old Cybermaster set is better than the boost crap. It can store one program, it's got 3 sensors and a massive amount of playabilty (I played with it for 3-4 years continously). Ah yes, those were the days...

Looks like you've got heaps though?

I genuinely thought that those where the wheel size we were using. After a thorough check on Bricklink, I see that the wheels that we need only came in a few sets, which I don't own any of. Of the hundreds of wheels that I own, I don't own the ones we specifically need. That baffles even me. Are there any other wheels in the same size range that I can substitute for?

I appreaciate your effort but you have to remember that everyone here has a specific task and if there are any issues, then talk with the given builder and have him sort it out. Don't take it upon yourself to fully rework the other members' work because you feel like it. What I'm saying is that this is a team effort and your task is building the frame for the whole thing, not manipulating the other members' contributions to your liking. It's a modular car and every part should be interchangeable. If you have an issue with some of the modules, notify the creator of it and they'll fix it, not you. Now, with that out of the way, The steering radius of the front axle is perfect as there's heaps of room between the shocks and steering links. The amount that it turns cannot be any tighter anyway since there's a few 5L thin liftarms holding it together and that prevents it from turning anymore anyway. As for the levelness of the car due to the different mounting positions of the wheels, then all I can say is that it's perfectly level. One thing to note is that when the shocks are fully compressed, the bottom of the construction touches the ground quite hard, so we might need to adjust the spring positions a bit if that's something to worry about. I agree that the hard springs are too much, I reckon soft springs would be alrigh too, but only have a few, not 8 so I cannot test that.

Sorry I've been absent the past few days, but we've had a massive power outage here so no pc access or lights for me to build with. I'm going to bed as I write this, and I will test build your models as provided by LXF files tomorrow morning.

That looks really good, but you should consider replacing the yellow knob gears with actual toothed gears since the amount of teeth matters in how how easy it is for the motor to deliver the torque. Sure, the 12t bevel gears have small teeth and looks weak, but they're quite strong and you will find that your finished ride will run a lot smoother.

The steering works fine, but personally I would like to see it have a tighter turn radius. Right now it's not that tight. I just tried something myself and you are correct, the whole thing would need to be 25 studs wide to normally implement a differential.

@KikoTube I built your axle, and as others have already stated, you need to fix the spring higher by a total of at least 1 stud. You can see the soft spring is only compressed halfway. I reckon that you could still fit a differential in the center by going old school and not use any of the new wheel hubs and make some of your own. That would decrease the overall width by 2 studs and provide enough space for a differential.

I will sign up for the building team. I have heaps of time during the day as I'm home from work at 15:00

Yeah sounds like fun, I would be in the building team as I'd rather not design or fiddle around with LDD mechanics that I don't know that well. I can work from LDD, not just with it.

I too have two NXT's where the display doesn't work. I managed to make one of them work for a few weeks by opening the unit and putting a heat gun to it.

Not bad, but you should your next goal should be to make a 1:1 scale crossbow with correct drawlenght and arrows and stuff.

I like the progress on this. It's very cool looking, and I can't wait to see the finished project.

Sorry for the long response time, but I've been quite busy this past week. Here is an example of what I mean

build a contraption that grabs the turntable and then you just pull a lever to take them apart

You have the .lxf file, just load it up in LDD and have a look yourself

It's only 1L in width so you could easily make it more compact in a 3x3 grid instead of 5x5 as you've done now