Carsten Svendsen

That flip flop L-beam though

Hi, check out these threads:

I still think that this is such a cool build! Way to go man

A video would be a lot easier, to see what you're up against. It should be able to rotate easily, I've build this model a couple of times in the past as well, and I don't remember this problem that you're having

I had a dream once of building a roller coaster too, but I could never figure out how to make the most important thing - the train. The wheel base was simply too difficult at the time to achieve. Your design seems to be lacking as well, I'm sure you can improve on it somehow to not lose out on so much speed. And in this day and age, we have so many micro-pieces available, that I would be surprised if there isn't a solution hiding somewhere.

This is correct. Both 24T ends should be on the same side of the model

It was very cool to see this contest through! I wish I could've participated

That axle has been a wish of mine for DECADES! It's everything you need to make a proper working PTO on tractors and other equipment. Now we don't have to line up all kinds of weird geometry, and can actually make it like it's meant to be

The problem wont be the blades, the problem will be the motors. You'll have to go with RC motors or something, and also, the amount of stress applied to the rotors of a helikopter is insane, especially if it's made of plastic. I would suggest not to spend too much money up front to get it working, but definitely go and build a cool model!

Oh, that's so clever! I still am not entirely sure how it works, but I think I got it. Very cool! I'm impressed with the amount of functions you've managed to incorporate here

Cool, But I would also like to see the thrust reversers That's one of the things that really impressed me as well!

Why would you want to paint it, when there are already so incredibly many colors available? Painting is like blasphemy honestly, you wouldn't even be able to use the pieces again later.

No, I have taken it completely to bits and all the parts have been sorted into their respective containers. It just took up too much space for a failed model. More experienced brain, or lots of useful references to steal ideas from ? But you're right, I do have a lot of experience, it seems to me also that your part selection was, maybe not super limited, but limited to some extent, causing you to build in a certain way. LEGO's designers aren't just one brain about building a kit after all. But yeah, it'll still be a few more years before I'm reunited with my LEGO. It's currently sitting in storage in New Zealand, and I'm in France for the foreseeable future, and then god knows where after that.

I agree that it would be fun to see it taking off, but with age comes wisdom; it's not going to happen as LEGO is just too flexible and heavy, and bulky as well. I actually like the colors, it's a nice change of pace from all monotone colored builds. For things I would've done differently, for the rudder, I would've put the actuator inside the plane instead of the outside. This is actually where I basically gave up as well, it was next to near impossible to find a good solution and I sacrificed other functions for it. However, you did manage a lot of functions, tons in fact, I am very impressed. But I definitely would have tried to keep everything contained to the fuselage, and have no sticky out bits. I don't know why I decided on pneumatics for my landing gear system, because having it all timed mechanically just seems like a way better solution. I couldn't fit the actuators in the plane, but you've used gears and worm drives. Obviously, why didn't I think of that? I simply gave up as there were constantly battles to overcome, and it was also a pain to take apart to modify anything on the interior. If I were to redo the plane, I would certainly make sure to have detachable sections, maybe the entire top from the bottom, like a baguette cut in half. Also, I had some very strict measurements to keep, I couldn't go any more than 2 studs thick on the wings, which is why I had carbon fiber rods. This obviously limited the functions I could put in there, but at the time, I also didn't know shit about planes lol, I just build it from the pictures. And everything was black, I used black everything as I didn't really have any grey pieces at the time, it was the early 2010's after all, so trying to see how things were connected and troubleshoot was an absolute nightmare as well. I might try it again, but from looking at your model, I'm so happy that at least I inspired someone else to be creative and go the many extra miles I didn't. Bob Hoover also inspired me, like he did you, he had many great designs too. I've been off building for quite some years now, traveling is not doable with your LEGO collection, but one day I'll most certainly revisit my old projects again

This is exactly what I was trying to achieve about 15 years ago with my Antonov An-140. I am so happy to see that someone else managed to live out my dream, well my idea was bigger, I wanted to cover it in heatshrink wrap and actually make it fly, so I had some issues with rigidity due to trying to keep the proportions. But I totally could have build what you did if I had actually gone through with it. I'm very impressed, there are so many functions I didn't even know was necessary on an airplane too, especially the wings. Though there are some areas where I think it could need more work, honestly, it's not even worth mentioning given the scale and complexity. I know it has been hard to build, great job man! Well, maybe, the color scheme if you could call it that, isn't exactly in my taste, but on the other hand, it makes it sooooo much easier to see how it all has been built and functions. So really, that's not a minus at all. And LEGO is supposed to be fun, what's more fun than a random mish mash of colors?

The easiest thing you can do is to remove sections one by one to see where the issue originates from. I believe the problem is that you want the Earth module to rotate way faster than the base input speed. An increase in speed always leads to a increase in required torque as well. What you can do is to rebuild the entire gear mechanism, to have the input axle connect directly to the Earth module, or as directly as possible, then reduce the gear ratio for the sun afterwards. Also, your studs on the bottom of the sun module might also cause issues, put a round tile with center hole on it to fix this.

Could it be that you just doesn't have a memorized library of all available technic parts yet? There are thousands of combinations with connectors and the like, and to know exactly which pieces to combine can be hard, if not impossible if you never even knew it existed in the first place, or you've simply forgotten. This can only be solved with time and practice. It also helps to sort out your pieces in many different containers to draw inspiration from.

First thing is to have a vision. Say you want to build a racecar (wow so original), well the bodywork is always going to be the last thing you make right? So everything underneath it isn't really too important, as long as it stays together. You need to always think in terms of functionality first. It's technic, not system, so the whole point is to not have a boring static model. I tend to make mock-ups of whatever core functions I want to have first and then build my way out from there. So if you want a racecar with a 6 or 8 speed gearbox, you would start with that to get it right, and not start with the frame and the wheelbase because that is going to hinder the development of the gearbox later. And build lots of iterations. I have probably 4-5 different versions lying around of the same thing to draw inspiration from. It's good that you build a lot of sets from instructions, but don't just follow along mindlessly, keep your brain engaged, ask questions, why did the designer choose this solution over another solution? Play with the model as you build it, and if you can, find old instructions on the LEGO website and build those with the bricks you have as the instructions from 15-20 years ago are much harder and challenging. I can also recommend that you watch this video: When I started building and designing my haybaler as you can see just underneath here, I started with the core function; the baling chamber, and I made a lot of mockups in brickwork to get the spacing and circle of the gears just right. Then I attached both sides together with the gears and now I had kind of a box. Then it was just a matter of putting a frame on it, and then the 2nd functionality of the other chamber had to be installed. I make it sound easy, but this took probably around 2-3 months of intensive building after work. And then when I had a frame and the chambers all operated smoothly, it was time to put wheels on it, cylinders and bodywork which took another year of on/off building. The amount of headaches and massive walls to overcome didn't make it easy, ut where there's a will, there's a way. I've been wanting to take it apart and make building instructions, but it seems like Stud.io never improves their technic building functionalities. It's too unreliable still. Also, I would like to redo the whole model, there is definitely room for optimizations, but given it's so long ago and most of the functions are hidden deep in the model, it'd be impossible to redo it without taking it apart, and that's why I want to do it digitally first, just in case I mess up.

I should be able to drop it on the ground from standing height, and only have minimal cosmetic repairable damages.

A #7 connector? I need more info

Cylinders are always stronger in a push configuration. That is why you see large front end loaders with the cylinder in a reverse configuration with a lever. The reason is that there is a bigger surface area on the end of the piston, where as on the other side, the rod is in the way and taking up surface area, thus contributing nothing to the exerted force. Compare these two images - The large machine pushes the rod to lift the bucket, where as the small machine pushes the rod to drop it.

Very nice, it does like compact, but I'm not entirely sure how it works, probably because I don't know how the spring missile block works in the first place. A video would be nice. Usually, just upload to youtube or something and post the direct link here. Eurobricks will auto-embed the video

I'd suggest using the flip-flop beams so that it is easier to brace out with some 3x5 liftarms

You will need Windows XP to run this software, and it is critical for play

There are many topics discussing Zamor balls. Showing results for 'zamor'. - Eurobricks Forums In general, they are 2mm bigger than the soccer balls and have a flat spot from the injection molding. Certainly not suited for GBC