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Rikus

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by Rikus

  1. Here you can find Bricklink HTML part list for the P200. Included are also 3 files for building alternatives https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6ix04ejtkm8nut1/AABa5JJiTLqT2rapHhp3MIHua?dl=0
  2. It's a wonderful model... And I already bought instructions to build it. Just one quick question: How did you import the XLS part list file to BrickLink? I really could not find a way to process it in order to easily add all parts to BrickLink o BrickOwl wanted list... Thanks
  3. Very nice, Polo... Would it be possibile to receive the stl file for the wheels? Or are you going to sell the wheels, somehow? Thanks
  4. I own it and it's really a good set. Playability is excellent and the look is really nice. It only lacks advanced functions and contraptions (the only two mechanical functions are steering and telescopic fork lifting, plus manual fork tilting), but the telescopic cable forklifting and the cool look make it a permanent presence on my shelf!
  5. You are right. I looked at the BI (I don't own the model... Yet) and there are no gears in the gearshifting chain. The only two 8 tooth gears are used to give the system some friction in order to avoid backlash.
  6. Nice solution, Max! With this the 4R problem is over... And the set will be much better. I wonder why TLG did not implement it in the set.
  7. Perfectly agree. Silicon rubber bands can last forever (they are normally used as seals in underwater cases, too), but some care is suggested: 1) it's better to loosen bands that have to much traction on them, when displaying the model (i.e.: the white ones used in PvdB Koenigsegg) 2) It could be useful to periodically (once a year is enough) apply some silicone grease on the rubber bands (just a veil: putting a small amount on the fingertips, rubbing fingertips and then touching the band surface is enough). I'm already using a 15 years old silicon band (as a seal) on my underwater camera case, ad it's still as new.
  8. Agree, I've got both of them and the look is really terrific! They both starred for a long time on my shelf... But now have been replaced by NK Predator and PvdB Koenigsegg...! ;) As a Racing Ultimate, I think the price difference could be easily justified by Porsche dimensions (it's 1:8 scale, against 1:10 of the Fearrari sets) and number of parts. The main problem, here, is the Porsche is not Technic enough and, most of all, the main function (gearbox) does not work right out of the box!
  9. As many already said before me, the Arocs is THE flagship and a real ultimate Technic set. Plenty of (smoothly working) functions, extremely playable and a real pleasure to see/show (even my wife, that normally dislikes Technic models, greatly appreciated the look). Yes, they intended to design a new kind of gearbox: it is not a "sequential" gearbox... It's a "randomized" gearbox, much cooler! I think nobody would have been disappointed should TLG have published it as the Ultimate Racers set... After all, as Sariel already showed, it's (slightly) better than the two Ferrari Racers sets: nice look, (sometimes) moving fake engine, steering wheels... It even add a "not so realistic (but who cares: it' intended to do so) gearbox" and suspensions...! BTW, someone please tell TLG that doing a 4 speed, paddle operated, actually working sequential gearbox is possible (just look at PvdB Koenigsegg... He even managed to build it without any need for new custom parts!). Edit: typo
  10. I think this is another confirmation: they are trying to correct the BI error, at least.
  11. I can confirm: I was monitoring the S@H shop (Italian one) while reading reviews... At 8:00am the set disappeared and when it came back (some minutes later) it was showing "temporary out of stock" message... Not even the 41999, that was a limited set, sold out so quickly (I was able to buy two at about 9:30am).
  12. I think most likely they "Delayed" the set due to the flaws in the manual... I was looking at the shop page since 7:50am (CET time); at 8:00am the set disappeared from the shop for a few minutes... Than, at 8:20am it showed up again, as "temporary out of stock"... Do someone succeed in buying it?
  13. IMHO, the reason is related to building geometries. Due to LEGO modularity, studded liftarms are 1 1/3 studs High... This is a big problem when coupling horizontal and vertical liftarms and/or when trying to "strengthen" a structure through perpendicular links: you always have to add two plates (1/3 stud each) between liftarms to connect them through a perpendicular one... And by doing so, you have to "lose" one row of "holes", potentially useful for gearing or mechanisms. Technic evolved toward studless because it's more modular and versatile in terms of "technic building"; it allows more functionally dense models and is more "advanced" in terms of building geometries.
  14. Thank you for creating and sharing this model! I forget to say it's incredibly sturdy...! A very strong chassis and very solid bodywork, too. I'll try to dismantle and re-align the two gearshifter rings (unfortunately I mounted them both wrong...), but this won't be easy! About front suspensions, I partially agree, maybe a stiffer setup could be achieved through using a longer leverage to operate them... I'll try it in the next future. Regarding the engine cover, I think much of the difficulty in operating it is related to the fact that you built two separate and specular mechanisms to move it, causing the user to turn the two knob in the opposite direction (both clockwise or counterclockwise... But being on the opposite sides of the car, the result is an "apparent" opposing movement). Maybe adding a gear on one side or "mirroring" one of the two mechanism could allow for a simpler usage. Thanks again for this beauty, anyway.
  15. Just finished, finally! The car is really awesome, with very nice curves and many details. Surely one of the best models I ever built... But one of the more complex and difficult, too! Many steps are really challenging and there is quite no "straight" building. I only found some minor flaws: 1) The gearshifting mechanism doesn't work perfectly... Probably my fault: I did not align the red gear selectors in the right way (as PvdB stated before)... But adding a second elastic blue band solved it (partially) 2) Front suspension are always compressed nearly to limit (due to the model weight), maybe I'll try to modify them.. 3) The engine cover mechanism is not so easy to operate (it needs both the gears on the two sides to be turned together, otherwise it jams) Overall, anyway, the model is really superb... It pushes Technic supercars building to a new level.
  16. They are supposed to be used in the rear spoiler, in the upper fixing arms that link the spoiler to the rear window
  17. I'm still building (I've very few spare time lately)... Your (awesome) model requires "gentle manipulation" during a lot of steps...! Definitely not so straight forward as TLG official sets are... But it's full of details and perfectly fit curves. I'm only experiencing some minor flaws in the mechanics, especially in the gearshifting system... Upshifting (right paddle, the one wit the two black gears) is a little bulky, the elastic band seems to be insufficient to bring the red Bionicle 1x3 tooth back in place... And it needs some help... Any clue? I'm thinking about rebuilding the whole front part... But It's going to be a very long and complex process...!
  18. Now I understand wy there is no rear wheels steering... With such a small front steering angle... rear steering would have been barely visible!
  19. 15$ on Mocplans http://mocplans.com/designer/koenigsegg-one-1.html
  20. No, the part is right It's supposed exactly to stop gearshifting Up and Down after 3 shifts. So that you cannot go from 4th to 1st gear directly, Confirmed: BI are wrong
  21. ... It also implies... A real color mess with all those yellow axles and colored pins/connectors... I can understand the meaning for the red parts in the gear shifting mechanism, but really do not believe they used yellow axles, red pin-bushes, yellow connectors and orange small liftarms in an "Ultimate" model... They could have easily used black/LBG parts to give a more "realistic" look... Or, at least, use different colors for the different mechanical "chains" (one color for gearshifting chain, another for steering chain, etc.), giving the model a much better look... Just my 2 cts
  22. Thanks I supposed that and I already used a couple of pins to fix them, too.
  23. A quick question about BI. On step 69+29 (page 38) two Black Pin with Pin Hole are added to the rear suspension assembly... But they are somehow "floating" since no pin or axle is used to fix them in place... Is it an error? Later (step 75, page 45) they are used to install the engine and a note is written about the need to remove/reinsert connectors... But since the two pinholes are not fixed, there apparently is no need to remove the connectors...
  24. Update: After about 10 days BLing parts, I'm currently building this beauty... I'm at page 43/170 of BI... And I already spent over 4 hours building! This is, by far, the most complex and "dense" model I ever built... And I built many flagships and MOCs (including NK Predator)... Kudos to PvdB for designing it and to Blackbird for the excellent work on BI.
  25. Thanks a lot for your great MOC! I just finished ordering missing parts on BL... Can't wait for them to arrive!
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