Lighti

after reading the questions from the lego train guys, you should put the info you gave in your reply more visible on the first page/kickstarter page as well. at the moment it looks like its only for technic and remote controling cars and stuff. but from what I understand it can follow some "recorded patterns" as well, with light blinking and motors(trains) moving... that sounds like an enormous benefit for the lego train community, which I reckon is quite big. and with its design it easily fits in the trains. and being able to control more than 4 receivers with one remote should open a lot more possibilities for them as well.

thats some serious engineering, thumbs up, money on the way!

so it would move with just 1 battery pack as well, just not as fast / with slower accelleration? great awaiting instructions ;)

stunning MOC, but a technical question, why 2 battery boxes? because of the many lights?

still no pic from the side with wheels? ;) I just finished first part of the chassis at the weekend. Used the buggy RC unit, motors and steering unit. It fits the 1:10 scale nearly perfect. I just don't know if the suspension of the steering unit will work properly.

progress looks very good, could you make a pic from the side please, to show how the wheels look like in your body? I plan to use the buggy RC motors and the steering unit as well, and base the body on the '69 dodge charger. but I will "borrow" partially your body design , it looks really really good. First Plan was to make it blue, but there aren't enough panel parts in blue, 2nd plan was black with orange stripes, but I might switch to orange with black stripes. as I own an unimog ;)

looks amazing, I look forward to pics with the wheels. I plan some muscle car MOC as well, and would like to see how the tires look with your mudguard curves.

btw has anyone noticed THIS: thats a whole lot of black 5x11 panels

look in the following folder c:\users\"whoever_you_are"\ApplicationData\.... the name might be different depending on your language for me its C:\Users\xxxx\Anwendungsdaten\ Maybe there is a folder from the EV3 software still containing data, which is somehow corrupted. Delete that data and than reinstall. or someone having the software could check where it puts it's data folder.

yes they are cheaper, but still twice as expensive as the beacon you proposed first... you still don't get the point. The one zmei makes is selfmade, from parts bought in very low quantities, from retail market, of course its more expensive. if it's to expensive for you, fine, still no reason to do fingerpointing... is it worth 29€? that everyone has to decide for himself (to make a simple comparison, I forged a knife myself, from raw steel, took me 2 days, material alone was > 20€, trainer cost 240€, I could have bought one for 2,99€ both will cut stuff)

well the beacon from zmei looks a lot better and more realistic than the one from ebay, AND is small and integrated in standard lego parts (you only need to hide the small wire) I highly doubt that could be achieved with the other kit from ebay, which has full size LEDs, or even with standard lego PF lights so yes the price might be high, but self made stuff has nevern been cheaper than mass producing it. (just have a look what the eLite kits from lifelites cost, and those are mass produced)

great stuff, might get 2 for my first moc, that and lifelite LEDs would make it look a lot better... self assembling and a little soldering should be no problem

very hard to decide 2: 2 4: 1 8: 1 14: 3 22: 1 23: 1 27: 1

hmm, maybe try to find a fellow helpful EB member living in the US trying to get the batteries for you, and then mail them. (pretty strange that lego doesn't sell those education sets in europe, and make such a big deal about it)

blarg... this is one of the most ugly b-models ever! thanks for the review anways. the lego guys should hire nathanael to make some b-models for them. look what he made out of those parts: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=84635

incredible work at the curves! looks beautiful (just the lights ) but curved bodystructures are hard to do in technic, and you did really well. have you looked at those inverted radar dishes? http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4740 if the idea of nychase doesnt work

no, the repulsive force is equal to the attractive. and there is already a repulsive force from the following magnet before you get over the pole. thats the energy you need to put into the car to get it over the pole, and thats the ammount of energy you get "out" when it moves away from the pole, not more. so there is no energy benefit in total.

it seems that everyone interested in engineering, physics and stuff someday gets to a point where he want's to build a perpetuum mobile of some sort, and to the question "will that move for long/forever" ;) (so did I ) it took me until 11th grade physics in school to really understand why it can't work. and recently took me over an hour explanation to a young collegue at work to convince him that a somewhat similar idea with magnets will not work. ;) a try of a simple explanation: you can't "harvest" the energy of a magnetic field of permanent magnets, you need the same energy to push another magnet into the field as you get out of the field when it pushes the magnet back. so the maximum energy you could get is the one that you initially used to start the process. (try to look at the wikipedia article about magnetism, at least the german one explains it quite good. and the example of aol000xw with the steel ball moving up the ramp works, because he puts energy into the "system" when moving the ball into the magnetic field

depends if it ever becomes an addiction. As long as its a hobby, everything is fine. If its an extensive hobby you should question yourself if thats all you want to do with your spare time. If its ok with you and your family... everything fine. For myself I will always question me if it takes to much time. I can say that I was addicted to another hobby for quite some time. I played MMORP games for over 10 years, spending nearly all my spare time on that. Which was ok at that time, as I had not much else to do. (Beside working, and doing the once a year holiday trip to some corner in the world). But I managed to stop pretty much from one day to the other when I met my meanwhile wife. And she was actually the one that got me back into Lego, with the 8070 as a xmas present 2 years ago ;)

check this: http://www.bricklink...m.asp?S=88000-1 and there is a rechargeable box as well of similar size, even more lightweight, but hell expensive (since there is a LiPo inside) http://www.bricklink...em.asp?S=8878-1 and the test car is cute, performance should improve with the smaller battery box, and should be even better with the 8878. I think I need to get my hands on a servo motor, too

just ingenious... and somehow cute... I love all 3, can't decide which would be the best, caterpilar or crab...

I just remebered there was some 3rd party manufacturer for LEDs for lego and just searched around. And found out they are flashing as well ;) You might want to have a look at those: http://lifelites.com

just a stupid question, is the design of a 2x2 brick still "protected"? if not you or someone else could just try to make those as a 3rd party, via kickstarter or indigogo or whatever. As I doubt Lego will consider it (only 2 Sets having lights is a pretty valid point by "Front", why should Lego bother with such a complex part, if they don't bother with lights at all.)

thats the 41999 body (in yellow) on the RC unit, right? ;) exactly what I currently plan as well

yeah you are right, I just calculated a little bit, and the 8285 tires (62.4mm D. x 20mm) are nearly exactly a scale of 1:10 of tires used for example on the '69 Mustang, so I will stick with those. To have the body match the 1:10 scale, it has to be around 5! studs wider though. length and distance between tires and such have yet to be calculated. A nice winter project, I have nearly all the side panels in red and yellow to get the bodywork done by design. Aaaaaand I just checked the 1H2014 models, they shall introduce all the required panels (but the 3x11) in blue!! So it might be possible to make one in blue/white, since the dark-blue from 41999 is out of question.