NV Lego technic

I mean, the fiber optics were more expenses than the rep of sets that contained them. A space shuttle would be cool, to be a successor to 42182 or the old shuttle.

The only 2 reasons I can think of for buying this set is for black 9 stud curved panels or for the hub and fiber optics. Also, a weird thing is that for optics almost bankrupted Lego in the late 20th century, why would they bring them back?

In my opinion, I'd much rather pay $10 more for the Audi, and get cool looking tires, a fair amount of panels, suspension, and a much more fun model.

It does not look like it has a defined angle. It looks more like a curve.

Exactly, this has been bothering me too. @Divitis they'd have to Introduce an inverted version, and why make a new part that would probably take up space and look weird in the interior, plus if you look closely you see that it has '7' written on it, and has the same texture as other connectors.

What is the safety pin method?

Are you sure you could fit that? Anyway, I plan to not change the suspension, and try to fit in everything I can until I run out of space, ides, or parts. This includes a 4 speed gearbox, a front diff lock mechanism which uses independent drivelines connected to one output one side, and the diff sits perpendicular to the axle. This makes it easier to add a steering motor on top, and an adjustable ride hight on both sides. I also have to figure out how to connect the rear lock to other locks. So yeah, I might as well redesign the entire rear axle. Another thing in my list is an RC 4 speed gearbox, and maybe an 8 speed if I find a wax to make it reliable enough to withstand 2 buwizz motors. I will also remove the hi/lo selector. And some other steroids I come up with.

That's why I named it Buwizz software problems and not PU motor problems.

No. With Lego hubs it performs flawlessly, and any unwanted steering is due to mechanical backlash.

When you turn the slider to one side, it goes back normally, and when you turn it to the other side, it stops about halfway to the center.

This.

Exactly.

The performance was significantly better with original Lego software. Maybe there's something up with internal sensors of the Buwizz unit. With mechanisms I've tested, there's usually between 90 and 180° of rotation between end stops. The servo mode means that a motor with a rotation sensor is calibrated, and then it should find a center between those 2 end stops. With Buwizz, it sometimes misses the center, bringing it more towards one side. And sometimes, the center is shifted all the way towards one side for no reason and behaves like it's always been that way.

You mean that I should increase the centering speed in the center steer settings? Thanks for advice!

I have tried setting it up like that, issues are always as bad as the are.

What do you mean but beating at 90° physically? Also, my steering mechanisms don't always turn 90° untill end stop. And what other control solutions are there? I don't own a gaming controller.

Since I started using the 'servo' function in my buwizz 3.0 pro with PU L motors, there were some issues that became more and more problematic as time progressed. These are the issues: When calibrating, after getting readings for both sides, I lands off center. When I enter the 'drive' mode, it sometimes steers on it's own and doesn't return to center. This can also happen In the middle of a drive, as if the center was shifted as far to one side as possible. Doesn't fully return to center. When I release the steering, on one side it works normally and on the other it only does half the way to the center. In this topic I'm looking for similar occurrences of other people, and ideas. On how to fix these issues.

Very cool, I'd like to tru something similar to you jeep, but at a smaller scale because I only have 2 buwizz motors.

That's a bit illogical, it would ve better called #2,5

Buwizz motors are pretty cheap IMO but a buwizz unit certainly isn't. You can use geekservos along with lipo battery and a receiver, but I don't know if you consider that cheating or not...

Exactly

I expected this, as there was no visible linkage that's connected to the sliding selector

Well of course, I imagine how challenging it would be to move a complex drivetrain by a fan or something. I'm just used to building rc models, so my logic flows engine/motor>wheels

Thad would be nice.

That's because front axle has more friction than the rear one, so when the central diff is unlocked, the drivetrain chooses to only propell the rear axle. But when the diff is locked, it's forced to drive all wheels so it looks like an rwd/awd selector.