Krzychups
Eurobricks Vassals-
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Everything posted by Krzychups
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After a break I want to come back to a planetary gearbox for A2212 or other 28 mm diameter brushless motors. I'm not sure that the A2212 motor will be sufficient for lego vehicles. The other option is to use the 2838 one. Things I need to include: A 28 mm diameter planetary gearbox for the A2212 or 2838 brushless motors. Fixing points for lego bricks to the motor and the planetary gearbox (something like Zene has done but with points on the motor if possible). A metal lego axle adapter. The reduction of a planetary geabox - I will use a 4:1 or 5:1 or double-stage planetary gearbox with for exaple a 16:1 reduction. What do you think about it? With the small reduction (4:1, 5:1) the motor will be hot faster than the double-stage one. Also, I have to choose the good kv. I need to find a good motor (shaft, cable connector etc.) Design: I can take inspiration from this, but at the moment it's not the most important thing to concentrate. I'm worried about how will I do the metal axle adapter. At the moment I don't have any idea. I need to contact the factory that makes the planetary gearboxes to establish the parameters. Then when I have the planetary gearbox I need to make a preliminary model of the whole thing with the motor and gearbox. I will post here on the forum as to the design. I'm curious if anyone would like to buy it somehow. If so, I need to design it in Freecad as I have the educational version of Inventor.
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About 74 mm. Probably no because a 2445 motor has got 2.3 mm shaft - but a 2435 one has got 2.0 mm shaft. Driving a model I don't feel the esc has got brakes, I brake by the motor. Last time I drove the rc model (I've charged the battery 2 times) it felt like it was going slower (on the same normal road). I've tried steering on two different radio controllers. Why is this happening? I've rebuilt the car model a bit but it doesn't seem to have much effect (or it does).
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RC-Bricks hybrid car
Krzychups replied to Ryokeen's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Well, 2wd normal rc cars have got about 30 degrees caster angle, I'm not sure what caster angle to use. I drive more on straight lines than on curves. Using Zene's motor and differential its only possible to build 2wd rc car. By the way I am also building an onroad lego rc car (because its easier than an offroad car) and I'm curious if rc onroad oil shocks are worth buying. -
RC-Bricks hybrid car
Krzychups replied to Ryokeen's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hello , I want to ask you some questions: Why do you use so powerful motor? As I see it is probobably 3650 motor. How have you mounted it? Intresting how you have done the steering. Can you take more photos? I have tried to do something similar but with a 2wd model and up to 30 degrees caster angle. It hasn't performed well. Has your model got caster angle? To me it looks too complicated, do you think to simplify it? You use rc wheel hubs, won't the wheels stick out a bit behind the bodywork, or vice versa? Anyway, nice rc car! -
Hello, This question is directed for @Ryokeen and @Daniel-99: which rc oil shock absorbers do you recommend? I know that I have to choose the suspension travel and the viscosity of the oil for the shock absorbers myself. I want shocks typically for buggies. With a 3d printer I've got a lot of options for attaching shock absorbers.
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Best 3d priter
Krzychups replied to Sentinel's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hi @Krxlion, I have Creality Ender 3 S1 pro. I have chosen it because I sometimes want to print from nylon (nylon needs to be heated to a high temperature - on this 3d printer it's possible). It doesn't have to be this particular printer. What I want to point out is that you will probably need a dryer for the filaments (some filaments absorb moisture) and filaments for printing - not sure if you will fit into the budget. I've made a battery case for now, but I'll probably start making other cases (I have a receiver for a Dumborc x6fg remote control, and also an esc 35a same as you have) ;) -
I have an idea to make segments: steering on the front (camber adjustment and toe in, toe out, rc shocks) and rear of the car like in real rc cars and make adapters for lego bricks. It's hard to say if I'll succeed, I wonder if I'll go for a fully printed chassis. I need to ask people who have real rc cars if there is a chance to do the rear segment (if the parts will not be too expensive). Possibly in the future I'll look into 4 wheel drive, although it's hard to say if I'll succeed. For now, this is just idea.
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At the moment it's possible to use it when you use 11950 wheel hub or similar (the distance between the axle and the ground is 3L, look at the photo). It's possible to use 8:40 or 12:36 ratio. You can use it in AWD models. To fix the gear you have to use the @janssnet method. 20240119_172050 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr motor by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr
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Hello, at the moment it looks like this: photo_2024-01-26_17-23-31 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr photo_2024-01-26_17-23-25 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr photo_2024-01-26_17-23-18 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr I haven't printed it yet. It's not possible to use 24:24 gear ratio. Okay, I partially agree with you. I use smaller wheels :)
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Okay, I'll try to do that. I don't have XL PU motor. 1200-2000 rpm is too slow for me. That's why I have 2200 kv motor. The planetary gearbox is interesting but difficult to make and print (or not?). On aliexpress you can find metal planetary gearboxes, maybe something can be done with them. I also know that @Daniel-99 use planetary gearbox in his projects, I wonder what his opinion is. This is just the beginning, I'll see what I can do :) Nice to know. But how do you "go wihout it"?
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Hello, I have tried to design a gearbox with bearings for an A2212 brushless motor. These are my beginnings with Autodesk Inventor. I have been having problems fitting the motor to the lego for a while. I have a motor from ZENE but want to do something with an old motor. It is possible to use a gear ratio of 12:36, 8:40 or 24:24, this is not the final version. I'll probably finish it when I go through a quick course on using the program (probably up to 2 weeks). You will also need a different shaft for the motor, as the pinion-shaft attachment is on the other side (look at the photo). I've made few mistakes - 100% infill (long print time, more weight) and I also need to redesign it because a lot of filament goes down to print the supports, I didn't dry the filament and I forgot to make the larger thread holes. 20240120_121512 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr a2212 gearbox 2 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr a2212 gearbox 3 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr a2212 gearbox 1 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr I also redesigned the 5x7 frame with bearings. My first version was competently badly made. Now it is much better. 20240111_181552 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr 5x7frame by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr As for the size of the bearings I can very easily change the size of the bearings if someone needs different holes. I'll try to make my parts out from nylon. I'm curious what you guys think about these. Maybe something is badly done or do you have a different design idea? More photos on my Flickr Greetings
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Suspension doesn't have to be minimal but not too much either It's 0.5 offset. The 6.5 studs axle fits perfectly on this suspension. I want to use the metal axle 7L, and I need to cut it down by 0.5 studs. I have tried using 6 studs axles in the suspension - they fit, but how well this will work on offroad/onroad I don't know. Look at the photo. 20240112_070231 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr 20240112_070305 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr
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I have got the differential, brushless motor with planetary reduction and esc from ZENE. Both are very good! I have got almost the same problem with 1/10 scale wheel hubs (look at the photo). In ZENE set there are metal shafts - I want to use them but I need cut them. 20240111_183942 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr To solve the problem I need to cut the metal universal joints, right? I'm afraid this may not be enough because the metal part on the wheel hub (where the joint connects to the wheel hub) may snag on the centre of the metal joint. 20240111_184303 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr
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Hello! I have made a lego 5x7 frame with bearings. I don't know if someone has done something similar because I am new. I use those bearings. At the moment the bearings are not glued. I haven't got a 3d printer so don't ask about 3d print settings. If there is something to improve feel free to tell me! A tip: if you don't know the dimensions of bricks: export the brick (the file) in Studio 2.0 as collada file (.dae), import the collada file in Blender, go to modeling and use the tool "measure". Download stl file here. You can see more photos on my Flickr. dimension tip by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr 20231215_210538 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr 20231215_210351 by Krzysztof Czech, on Flickr
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For me, a speed of less than 20 kph is low. I much prefer playing with lego cars at higher speeds. I currently have an A2212 2200kv brushless motor and it's perfect for me (I'm in the process of building my car, I think the speed will be around 30-40 kph).