Lixander

;) Now it is a mess that smells like W40 and it is put somewhere in storage. These are some older photos (2nd ”fun-fact”: this is one of the few models which I took photos of it). Also, here is the video.

I saw the model from the BrickGarage`s page ( https://youtu.be/XteYm7UqNvg?si=KYgfW5_TGetOJ2BH ), but yeah, I have seen it. It is interesting that the videos are made before the ”FJ Bruiser”, this project being made by Toyota themselves for the 2023 edition of SEMA show (a car exposition held annually in U.S.A.). But I know the model made by Goober Reboot is based on another custom-built Toyota FJ. Also, ”fun-fact”: my first Lego off-roaders that I have built were made by Goober Reboot. His red trophy-truck is the only model that I bought pieces to keep it built and in the same colors - black chassis with red and white body-work. Now, that model became a test-bed for Lego models with RC hobby-grade electronics. Well, the question was put right in time :)) I built it already ahead of the new renders, but the model is extremely simple. The most complex parts are the front-frame and the motor-frames, but both have few parts (in my opinion). Also, the build is somehow modular; when it will be finished, it will have 6 main sub-models - front frame, motor-frame, tubular chassis, hood, body-work sides and probably front-end body-work. I took it for the first test-drive today actually. It has decent speed and good suspension, even on some snow or a little bit of ice. Also, I managed to install the side-bars before taking it out and there are still attached. Still, I need to do some proper tests though (most likely I will do them tomorrow).

I just finished working on the front frame...........I managed to use both the more new hubs and to make the toe disappear in the new frame. But, the front seemed stiffer and lower than the rear, so I had to modify the rear and to swap the front shocks with 2x hard 9.5L ones and to add 2x 6.5L ones in the back, in addition to the soft 9.5L that were at the back. I think this is the best way to go - with the new frame, because it keeps the responsiveness of the suspension while adds a little more stiffness to it (just a little), makes the front have more suspension travel and also makes the model look closer to the real BBX, especially the top of the front suspension frame. But still, I will look at the Madoca˙s baja....thanks for the reminder! You too ;)))

I see. I know the problem, as it uses the already built Flat baja II front-frame, but I didnt know that it can be said in such a different way :)). The toe-in/splay in appears when the suspension is not loaded. When fully loaded, the wheels are straight. I tried to put the other front-frame (with bigger wheel hubs) in the digital build, but it seemed off in terms of dimensions. But I guess it takes nothing to test the other frame in real-life. Thanks again!

Thanks! If you said so, I have to test those side bars. And can you be more exact about the front steering, please? I really didnt know about that. I just make the models with the PF servo and make a frame for the most common hubs - BuWizz 2.0 and 3.0 and the MouldKing cheapest hubs, despite I only use the MouldKing 4.0 hub. I am planning to make models with a PU L motor in the future, but I still have to think about how to organize the instructions. Anyway, I have to find more on the BuWizz 3.0 thing too :/ Side note: the PU hub is pretty heavy and takes too much space, so I dont want to use it.

I build the replica of the Tamiya BBX BB-01 RC buggy. As it was pretty full of errors, I made a 3rd test. I still have to test it outside, but it is pretty much finished. It uses the front-frame of the Flat baja II - that is why I moved it here, a modified detachable ”body-work”, heavily modified chassis of the 1st or even 2nd test that now uses 4x hard 6.5L shocks in front and 2x soft 9.5L shocks at rear which made the suspension pretty responsive, even with the big 9.5L soft shocks. But I had to take out the light ”frames” in the front, because the proportions seemed off to me; so I took out all the light ”frames”, including the back one. The proportions are messed a little anyway if you ask me, due to the new front-frame and of the new ”bonnet” I had to use. Also, it has independent suspension on all wheels with double wishbone arms in front and as the model had, trailing arms at the back and a similar way to detach the body-work panels as the original RC model. It has ”frames” for 1x BuWizz 2.0/ 3.0 or 1x MoudlKing 4.0 hub. You can find the previous versions on the last page of the Flat baja I in the topic below or even better, all the images on the Bricksafe page of the model - I moved some images in other folders, so most of the links got invalid on Eurobricks.

Flat baja II is ready! It uses the same motors and has similar specs as the 1st Flat baja-truck - 2x buggy motors for traction and 1x servo-motor for steering and independent suspension on the front wheels and solid-axle type on the rear ones, but it is more compact while it has a more smoother body-work and more responsive suspension. Also, from the 1st Flat baja, the II has 8x 6.5L shock absorbers, more pin holes for the lights (2x in front and 1x at rear) and 4x small wheels mounted in the chassis for sparing it from the scratches while the suspension is fully loaded - system inspired from the ”conveyor belt” system from the Toyota FJ ”Bruiser”, made for getting the truck over the large obstacles. The Flat baja-truck II has a little toe-in on the front wheels, but it gets really insignificant as the speed increases. I am saying ”as the speed increases” because I am thinking of how to put RC electronics in this but I also want to install a revised front frame with the more new wheel hubs (the 23801c01 or the 3468c01), but the new frame needs to be tested. Anyway, you can find the instructions for sale for the ”stock” Flat baja II on Rebrickable or you can take it together with all of my other models on sale in the Combo from Rebrickable or from Patreon (on Patreon I could put the files in only one archive). And don`t forget to check the notes from the Bricksafe page.

Thanks! Also, nice source of inspiration ;))

Hey, don`t go harsh on yourself. You did a great job overall, and the suspension is just spot on. Also the thing with the weight ratio is something that you don`t see too often, even in hobby-grade RC`s. By the way: how did you measured the weight ratios?

Oke. Yeah, you`re right. Thanks for the link!

Yup, I referred to a motor mount. I dont have the experience, but I will come back with a rough design. Also, the wheels and hubs are a good addition :))) It would be nice if the hubs to have metal bearings.

Also, even if it's a little off-topic, for the RC version you can sell separately a motor adaptor with the common screw holes distances (I mean something like a case with pin holes somewhere and screw and axle holes for the motor), being a similar process with the making of the case of the RC Deck (I think). I consider this is one of the main problem (the motor adaptors), because there are some solutions for the differential, frames with ball bearings, wheel hubs and the U-joints, but the motor frames are usually given as 3D files or have a fixed/ restrained motor dimension. For example, in my country, I can't find too many companies for 3D printing. About 1 of the companies is trustworthy and of that, 0 answers for the printing of the 3D file, most likely because the frame is too narrow at the margins

Oke. I found the Hotwheels golden toilet car.....it looks interesting :)) Also, to make a series sounds really good, but to keep the models simple and robust, the ”main object” (toilet, sink, etc.) has to be made from one piece that is large enough to build around it. But anyway, thanks for sharing your ideas!

Indeed. Even if this is only a Lego static model, I can I imagine the feeling of doing a drag race from a V8 bathtub :)))

Yeah :))))

Yup. The whole idea is staking a bathub on a chassis with a V8 for drag races. And thanks ;))

The Bathtub dragster is now official! It features a detailed V8 engine, a saddle fuel tank, a pretty big radiator, a simple racing style seat, a dashboard with instruments and a steering wheel, disc brakes (just for realism, not functional) and a hood under which is hiding the battery and other such things. I forgot to put the elastic band in the renders, but for now, i think I will leave it like because the Studio has a really pretty hard to control deformation of rubber bands. Anyway, you can find the Studio file with the original idea on the Bricksafe page of the model and only the final idea on Rebrickable. SIDE NOTE: I don`t have the pieces to test it, so any suggestion on this or if you have any problems with the build, feel free to comment.

Sounds and looks more versatile. I like the update. I see that the height of the whole unit seems smaller, which is definitely a great thing maybe even an advantage.

Thanks for the good idea! i will see if it applies to the Flat baja MAXX too.

I might resurrect the bathtub dragster

I am not sure, but maybe because of the discharge rate. Usually, hobby-grade Li-Po˙s dont go under 10C. My 2S battery has about 30C, if I remember correctly, for example

Now, that you spoke about the voltage, I remembered.........the buggy motors won't handle a 2S LiPo because of the heat. Also, a charged 2S LiPo has 8.4V. I burned 3x buggy motors until I finally understood that a RC system would simply burn these motors. Probably, a RC compatible system thought for using with Lego electronics won't do that, because, most likely, the discharge rate is the problem (the ESC might give too much current to the motors).

Thanks! Well, I think you saw that the links don't actually link :))) The Flat baja II has some toe-in......not too much and at high speed, I think it is pretty non-existent. I had done (for other models) a version of the front frame that has the average wheel hubs, so enabling to adjust by half a stud the height of the link that the wheel has with the 6L link by using the new wheel-hubs, such as this ones: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3468c01#T=C&C=11 Still have to test the sturdiness of this new frame.

I gathered here all my W.I.P.s that I plan to do. Also, from now on, I will put in this topic MOCs too instead of making different topics for each. ”Retro styled buggy” - 1x upgeared buggy motor that wont work probably (because of the upgearing and its 740 grams / 26.10 ounces), 1x servo, independent suspension on all wheels and detachable body (with huge wing, that most likely will make the model tip on the back). It takes some ”shapes” from the Tamiya Avante Mk.1. ”Test X” - a rear wheel-drive model which was meant for speed with the PF XL motors - nonsense, I know. That is why I pretty much renounced at it when I finished the first version. It has independent suspension on al wheels, 2x upgeared XL motors, 1x servo and has a modified Flat baja II front frame. ”APACHAIHAPACHAI 15 stud chassis mod” - this, but with 2x buggy motors. Also, great work @apachaihapachai ! ”Technic Tamiya Neo Fighter buggy” - based on a Tamiya RC buggy, but unlike the RC buggy, it has a 4x4 drive-line. Fitted 2x buggy motors and 1x servo, removable body-work, positive caster-angle and full independent suspension. Als, the weight is just under 900g (pretty decent, considering it is a 4x4 and that has a pretty body plus some useless pieces to simulate the electric motor of the real thing). One of the hardest parts that still have to be done is the battery hub frames, which don`t fit in the pretty small body. ”Technic Tamiya BBX BB-01 buggy” - encountering huge problems with the rear suspension arms on the Technic BBX, I kind of canceled it. But the idea was too great to let it just be unfinished. So I returned at the 2nd model file I made, which had 2 motors and an updated rear swing-arms, but visually it was a mess and I think that didn`t work as well. In any case, I am working on a 4th redesign; the renders are from the 3rd one. ”Flat baja-truck MAXX” - with chassis based on the looks and ideas of the HPI Jumpshot SC RC baja, it has 4x4 drive from 2x buggy motors and 1x servo. As main features, it has a (pretty big) positive caster-angle, independent suspension on all arms, consolidated steering rack, space for lights in the front and in the back, plenty of space for the battery hubs, detachable body and, the cherry on the cake, the distance between the suspension arms is 0 studs, enhancing the suspension behavior and travel. The front and rear are heavily modified frames from the ”Something 4x4”, a kind of a study created for testing the same idea for spacing the suspension arms while integrating a 4x4 driveline. P.S.: At its a little over 1 kg / 35.27 ounces, this will sure need another pair of shocks. I will see how I will put them. Also, I want to do a version with RC hobby-grade electronics. And here is a closer look at the rear frame with 0 studs between the suspension arms. This is a modified frame from the ”Something 4x4” from the bottom of the post. ”Ruslan baja-truck” - based on the Eagle V2 trophy-truck - thanks to @Daniel-99 for helping me with recreating some parts of his build. It has 2x buggy motors, 1x servo-motor, (big) positive caster-angle, easily removable sides, space for about 5x light systems (1/2x back and 3x front )and 4x 9.5L hard shocks for the 4-links suspension at the rear and independent at the front. I am planning to make a version with RC hobby-grade parts in it. Here are the original topics: ”Flat baja-truck II” - same features as the first one, but this time 100% of the design is mine and also it has less parts while it has a smoother look (for me). i am still working on the instructions, so until the final steps, I only have one render with it :/ I have another bunch of W.I.P.s, but most of them I don`t consider to finish at all. You can find all of them in the ”General archive” on my Bricksafe. Most notable ones are the (I wont add descriptions because you can find the Studio files on Bricksafe): ”Red Yeti chassis” ”Superstar” ”Something 4x4” ”Bathtub dragster”

Ok. Thanks for the answers!