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Interesting, I’ll keep that in mind! Have you considered moving to an oil-filled suspension setup? Otherwise, beautiful work! I’m a big fan of this kind of engineering with brushless motors. Can’t wait to see it running.

Thank you for your message! Is there a specific part you’d like to see? The entire set of parts was custom-designed, including the chassis, front and rear suspension, as well as all components related to the drivetrain, suspension, and steering. I even modified some parts that come from @HorcikDesigns, such as the rims, which were altered to allow the wheel hubs to be inserted more deeply. There is also a different depth between the front and the rear to take into account surrounding parts that could otherwise rub against the tire, for example. Here are a few additional photos anyway. The underside of the chassis: Views without the tires to see more details: I bled my suspensions to ensure they are in the best possible condition. Mid-mounted motor with cascading transmission: And finally, it’s true that I wasn’t planning to make a video, but if it’s requested, I’ll be happy to do so. For now, indoors, I prefer demonstrating the suspension, and I could possibly make an outdoor video in 3–4 months when the nice weather returns.

Quick little update to introduce you to a new model. The highlight of this creation was the integration of 4 true independent suspensions. It required a huge amount of research and development from me, dozens of part prototypes, but the result is beyond my expectations. The vehicle drives as if it's floating on a cloud all the time and absorbs road imperfections without any rebound. The front and rear suspensions have different settings. All are filled with 700 cSt viscosity oil, but the springs differ between the front and rear axles. More photos:

I also found a mount for a different setup, created by @HorcikDesigns, for the SG90, but I’m not sure if it also works with the SG90S! https://makerworld.com/fr/models/165631-servo-sg90-to-technic-adaptor-for-brick-models?from=search#profileId-181863

Always in pursuit of optimization for my small-scale builds, I’m currently testing a few new ideas. First, I’ve been experimenting with a new way to mount the gear onto the motor shaft. I replaced the gear’s cross pin with a hole matching the motor shaft diameter (3.17 mm for the A2212). You have to press it in with a hammer, and once it’s in place, it won’t move a bit. I think this is the most reliable solution so far, and it also saves some space. I’ve also bought a couple of new AM32 ESCs to test. Both are excellent, they’re “only” 30 A, but that’s more than enough for our small brushless motors. They’re just as compact as the usual ones people use here, but cost half as much. And for a new build, which turned out to be the smallest vehicle I’ve ever made. I’ve been testing a different brushless motor I had mentioned earlier. It’s more compact than the A2212 but performs really well on lightweight models. For the first time, I’m also using a servo other than the Geek Servo: the MG90S. Once adapted to the LEGO system, it’s even smaller than the smallest Geek Servo, yet it offers a torque of 2 kg compared to 0.5 kg is a bit faster and more precise, and all of its gears are metal.

For my part, I consider that even with a large number of highly specific printed parts for a particular model, everything is used with the ultimate goal of being in harmony with the Lego system. I find this to be a great compromise to stay within the Lego world. In my case, this allows me to build sturdy, robust, and durable mini 4x4s with a Lego aesthetic, which for me is an integral part of my enjoyment. However, it’s always more challenging at smaller scales to combine performance and robustness while prioritizing pure Lego. That being said, I invite you to check out my thread, where I’ve just presented my first two 4x4s in a bit more detail

I’m back with something new, actually, twice as much this time! I’m excited to show you my very first 4x4s at a really small scale. On one side, there’s the racing buggy, which is basically an evolution of my previous blue RWD buggy, still my best creation so far. It ran a lot this summer, dozens of battery packs, and still just as fun every time. Within exactly the same dimensions, the first big step I managed to take was moving to 4WD. The motor is placed in the center, and the whole setup includes 14 ball bearings. A bit over the top maybe, but I can say there’s absolutely no friction left that could have been removed. Aesthetically, since this was my first attempt, I decided to focus more on compactness rather than using Lego parts for the body. But that’s something I wanted to improve on the new model. Now, on the other side, there’s the off-road truck. Which is actually a major evolution of the racing buggy. It’s 3 studs shorter, has 1 stud more ground clearance, and is equipped with RC shock absorbers: At the front for a suspension of all the front axle, At the rear for an independent suspension setup. So, not only is it even more compact and better optimized, but it also handles much better. And thanks to the space saved, I was able to build a body using as many Lego parts as possible. Another special feature of this model is that it doesn’t use any metal connectors with screws, only Lego connectors (except for the suspension mounts that require M3 screws). The entire design was made with that in mind. However, it is equipped with metal wheel hubs and 2-stud-long U-joints on the axles. Only 10 ball bearings were needed in total. Another point worth mentioning is that there are no metal gears. I wanted to test that, and even without grease, the gears handle full acceleration and top speed perfectly. Considering the total weight of 500 g and the number of bearings, that’s not too surprising. The main downside of this model, as you’ve probably noticed, is the gear sticking out dangerously from the chassis, to be fixed... Next developments already in progress, still within this size range: Independent front suspension Integration of differentials Fixing that exposed gear issue under the chassis

Here are a few illustrations, I hope they’ll work for you ! And just for your information, with M3.5 you can’t slide through the connectors, it doesn’t fit!

Thank you Regarding the front axle I presented, I’m using classic 3L metal U-joints. I actually finished this model a while ago. In the meantime, I went to Sweden for three weeks for work, and I’ve been back in France for a few days now. That said, this model is awesome, works like a charm, and has exactly the same dimensions as my previous small blue buggy, except now it’s 4x4! Here are one or two photos: I’ll present it in more detail later, probably alongside the new version I’ve been working on since I got back. This time, I’m using 2L MTP U-joints. I’ve found solutions to make this version even more compact and optimized. We’re talking about an additional 1L in ground clearance and 3L saved on the total length. I’m keeping the same width because I’m now incorporating MTP metal wheel hubs. Plus, I’ve managed to integrate an independent oil-filled shock absorber system at the rear. I already have some ideas to replicate this on the front axle, but that’ll be for a V3. I’m also using the alternative geek servo motor for the first time, which, as strange as it may seem, appears to be more precise in returning to the zero point than the 2kg geek servo in initial tests. Here are a few photos: And to come back to the MTP metal connectors, I completely agree with you that they’re quite expensive. But I find them absolutely essential in many cases. Using threaded rods can be a substitute, but in my opinion, there are quite a few drawbacks. For my part, I still use M3, as you can see in the photo, which can fit inside Lego connectors (with adapted washers to stop the screw head from passing through the pin holes). And since the nut can slide up to the offset of the pin holes, you don’t even need to put a connector inside the pin hole: the rod stays well-centered. I made this choice because with larger diameters, you end up with oversized screw heads and much bulkier and thicker nuts, which can be problematic. And of course, replicating frictionless movement with threaded rods seems complicated to me. It’s probably possible, but MTP will remain my first choice

A quick post to show you the front axle of my next mini 4x4. What I was aiming for: Maximum 9 studs between the wheels Fit in the 6 planned ball bearings Be really strong because it’s for bashing Metal CV joints A good steering angle Compact and not too tall because of the servo Plan a neat routing for the servo motor cable Have mounting points for the future design using only conventional Lego pieces I managed to reach this goal after a long process and several prototypes, and in fact it’s even under 9 studs wide (the steering arm you see in front is 8 studs). I’m obviously going to replace the plastic gears with metal ones. All that’s left is to make some 3D tweaks to widen the areas where the ball bearings will sit. I also have some ideas to add more mounting points for regular bricks, and to think about how to connect it to the chassis, what kind of suspension, etc. I’m still a bit unsure about that part. It’s made up of four main parts: The central body The wheel hubs The steering arm with the servo arm The cover to close the underside and lock everything together The whole assembly is secured and locked either with Lego pins or with MTP screw connectors.

I never would have thought a battery could lose a cell. I’ve always charged mine with a cheap charger that doesn’t show that kind of thing. So I just ordered a charger with cell display to do a little check-up on my stock I didn’t know about Tattu — I’m actually looking for new 450mAh packs, but with my current brand (Zop) they’ve become almost impossible to find or way too expensive. I’ll check AliExpress when I get a chance! Yeah, with a crawler I think that’s fine. But once you start going for speed or acceleration, that’s a whole different world. I know that from experience I’d need to make an adapter to fit the D-shaft, but I think it’s doable. And for a planetary reduction, with such a small motor, if you’re aiming for speed (with 1:28 and small wheels), it’s not necessary. I’ve never actually used planetary reductions anyway, only the classic motor pinion to axle gear reductions.

Hi everyone, Today I’d like to share a slightly different project, to mark my very first steps with my brand-new 3D printer, my very first one! I couldn’t resist the Bambu Lab P1S, an amazing machine thanks to its simplicity and the quality of the prints. That being said, I had been thinking for some time about making a completely flat model, meaning one that could drive on both of its sides. I needed a symmetrical body, 5 studs high, to fit between wheels of 64 mm diameter. This gives a ground clearance of 1.5 studs on each side. I first tried making a prototype entirely in Lego, but it was impossible to fit all the components within just 5 studs of height. Since I had just received my 3D printer, I thought this would be the perfect project to get some practice and start learning 3D modeling. I began designing the two main parts: the chassis as a single piece, and the motor block also as a single piece (with integrated ball bearings). Everything was modeled to Lego system dimensions. The front axle, however, is made entirely of Lego, covered with 3D-printed panels. The front axle and the motor block/rear axle are connected to the chassis with metal connectors and screws. It’s fixed at the front, but at the rear the axle can rotate laterally (using my usual elastic system). So there’s no suspension as such, but enough flexibility to handle uneven terrain. I also went with very soft tires (which act as a kind of minimal suspension). The floor and roof are removable (attached with Lego pins). The roof can be opened with a hinge to make component access easier. The electronics are the same as usual, and they fit perfectly inside (a bit like squeezing everything into a handkerchief, to be honest). Dimensions: Weight: 417 g (with battery) Length without wheels: 150 mm Length with wheels: 173 mm Width without wheels: 71 mm Width with wheels: 123 mm Height from ground to top: 50 mm The result is a sharp and reliable drive, with no risk of flipping over and damaging anything It can drift, flip, roll, and immediately keep going again! The body never touches the ground. As for the design, it’s of course quite minimal, but the finish of the surfaces really gives it an almost industrial look, as if it had just come straight out of the box. I’m already working on another model in this flat format, but this time with a kind of suspension system. I’m also considering a 4x4 version, not for crawling but for bashing — and that’s where the real challenges begin! As always, if you have any questions or feedback, they’re more than welcome!

Thank you for sharing, happy to see I'm not the only one wanting to miniaturize models powered by a brushless system Your build is really well thought out, and I think it's the smallest brushless crawler out there to date, congratulations! From these short video clips, it looks seriously functional and promising, can't wait to see more! You should indeed use a more compact battery; I'm only running 450mAh 3S, and it's more than enough. Have you already found the one you're going to use? Are you going to design parts with ball bearings? I'm worried that plastic won't hold up in the long term; play will develop, and it won't be as pleasant to drive. Then again, maybe for a mini crawler, it'll be fine since you're not going fast, so there aren't too many friction issues! I'd love to test your motor solution, but I'm afraid that in my case (bashing), the plastic gears won't last long! Do you think it would be possible to use it without a planetary reduction? I'm currently working on a 1:24 scale mini 4x4 bashing build, and I'm designing a lot of 3D parts with ball bearings, along with carbon and aluminum transmission, metal wheel hubs on bearings, full metal gears, screw connectors, etc. It's a must for my setup

Awesome! Well done I’m jealous! Really can’t wait to see it in action