Barkmi4

I’d be surprised if they released another model that didn’t fit L gauge. Lego trains have been around for a long time. They recently changed their wheels (well axels) to plastic, to reduce cost with the promise of releasing more trains. And it’s been a while since we’ve had a none city train available (thinking more creator expert than Harry Potter..) Wouldn’t surprise me if they refreshed the EN running gear and based the model around that. I could see them doing a 7-8 wide carriage. Pretty sure the EN exceeded 9 studs on the locomotive itself..

Beautiful MOC

Personally I’d say the length difference is around a hair’s width, or less than 1/10th of a mm. My rule has 0.5mm markers on it, and any difference, at least to my eye, is well below that. Few photos linked; https://www.flickr.com/gp/193389511@N06/h3i8Y4 When I’ve placed my rule on the ends of the track and held up to light I can just about see light coming through where the end of the Lego rails meet the rule. I think I’ll go for 104, 88 and maybe some 72’s. At some point in the distant future I might make a layout and ballast, but for now money is going on track and parts. I have 3 built, and 3 unbuilt BR MK1 carriages 42 long by 7 wide, which are pretty heavy, with the rolling resistance of square wheels (BlueBrixx wheels/axels - avoid!). Desperate for some bearing wheel sets for these. As you can imagine they struggle on R40. Planning on building a 3 set of 53ft well cars, and 5 set of 40ft well cars too, so wide radius will be a must. I like the geometry offered by trixbrix. Double slip, Y, triple switches. I can see me using the R40 yard switches at some point too. Some great work by Matzzo - geometry corner gets me very excited.. https://mattzobricks.com/lego-track-planning/track-geometry . Thanks for all input. If anyone has experience on the below that would be appreciated too.

Thanks for the responses. On a related note Bricktracks has ~17% discount on for 4th July celebrations if anyone is interested. The trixbrix double straights arrived today and I’m very impressed. The double length is great for assembly of layouts too. I think I’d rather injection moulded switches over 3D printing. By the time you’ve bought the same from trixbrix as you get in a BT set it’s about the same product cost. R104 seems the best option for switches as R40 is too tight, and any in-between (56, 68, 72) are frankly more money - I have the space so r104 seems like the no brainer. I think I’ll order 2 switch packs and some wheels/axles from HA. The shipping is actually a lot cheaper for 2/3 switches over 4. Still not sure what radius tracks to go for though, so interested to hear thoughts. Noted Thomas’ comment about R104 being roughly in line with 1:45 scale. Does anyone in the U.K. have experience placing an (import) order over £135 post brexit? Do you have to pay 20% VAT + 2% customs + processing fee? Best I can make out that’s how it works. Supposedly it’s £8 fee with Royal Mail and more with other couriers. Trying to work out if it’s better to keep below the threshold and pay more in shipping, or less in shipping and more in tax. Thanks again

Morning all, We’ve finally moved and I’m now looking to buy some new track. To date I only have Lego track, a few pieces of ‘Wilko’ track (thrown in with a marketplace buy), and 1 pack of Felph track from Amazon. I wouldn’t recommend either. I’ve purchased some trixbrix straights from Amazon which should turn up tomorrow. It costs a bit more but there’s no shipping costs. With being in the U.K., shipping from both trixbrix and Bricktracks is expensive. Techbrick isn’t much better as their prices are inflated. Ultimately I think I’ll order from both companies. Trixbrix offer geometry that you can’t get elsewhere which is very appealing, and Bricktracks offer wheel-sets and injection moulded r104 switches. That said, I’ll inevitably have some 3d printed parts so I’m not too worried about having 3d printed r104 switches. I’ve discounted FX as I have no 9V equipment. Whilst it is appealing to have metal rails, at the moment switches and DCC motors aren’t available, and the cost is just too high in comparison. I won’t be running at shows, and a few sets of rechargeable batteries is a far more cost effective way for me to enjoy the hobby. For now, I don’t plan on building a set layout. Tracks will be placed on the floor and different layouts created dependant on time/space/mood. I’m fortunate enough to have 2 empty rooms currently, both approx 3m x 3.8m, connected by a 4m landing. I’ll likely use R104 switches on any mainlines. But, I have a few questions I’d like advise on/to hear others experience; Those in the U.K., where do you order from (post brexit) and why? Those in the U.K., in what quantities do you order in (financially) to minimise shipping/import tax? Trixbrix states that for orders over £135 20% will be refunded to pay the courier VAT on delivery. The flat ~£19 delivery charge seems high. Equally shipping from BrickTracks is high (circa 17%), and I’ve no idea if import tax will be payable on delivery too, and the relevant thresholds. Has anyone found cheaper ways of sourcing these parts? I know H.A. Bricks are the European distributer, but their prices are inflated and their shipping is also steep (€45 euro for 4 switches). Those that have both Bricktracks and trixbrix R104 switches, which do you prefer? Any observations? I noted the Bricktracks has both a turn in and turn out curve, whereas trixbrix has a single type of ballast curve suggesting minor differences in switch geometry..? Any arguments not to use R104 switches on mainline (I.e. not yard spaces)? And the big one, what radius curves would you suggest using? I’d probably start with the focus of having parallel tracks and expanding from there. Part of me is inclined to get R56 and build out. R56 is more cost effective but I’ve no idea if these are much better than r40? The other side of me thinks R104 - I don’t really have a reason other than if switches are made using this they should be gentle enough to take at full speed. But then do you build out or in? Very interested to hear opinions. I’m not particularly bothered about mimicking real world, more interested in something usable and enjoyable. Any thoughts on numbers and types of switches to purchase and have a play around with? Noting the shipping costs I’d like to make a large order, just unsure on what to actually buy. I really like the look of the double slip switches and triple switches. It goes without saying I’ll need a number of standard switches too - but no idea how many to make a playable layout. Thanks for reading and any input in advance.

Awesome idea

Great info, Ta

Sorry for the bump. Now that these have been around for a while has anyone got any feedback/experience with the couplers? Does anyone know if there is an EU distributer? Product looks great but the shipping is pretty steep.

I’m (slowly) attempting a MOC of the Euro shuttle, or ‘Le Shuttle’. For some context, I downloaded Studio.io around 2 weeks ago, and this is my first attempt at designing a MOC. I started with a carriage and after being hampered by slow progress, I focused on a bogie design for the carriages which includes suspension. I had a bit of time over the weekend, so I bought a flat wagon design from block junction which I recreated in studio to try and get to grips with the software. I then tried recreating a few plank wagon designs, and a well car design. I’m hoping I’ll get chance to look at the carriages again this week. As of yet I’ve not started design of the locomotive. It will be built on an 8 wide base which provides a few extra options. I plan to implement suspension on the middle bogie. If I can find something compact that works, I’ll implement it on all 3. My favourite option currently is to implement it essentially as a trailing bogie connected to the preceding bogie, disconnected from the main chassis. I considered connecting it via a technic link on a single, or dual axle running across the chassis to enable the sidewards play. But I don’t think this will enable the latitudinal movement required to navigate the tight R40 curves and switches (which is all I currently own). I’d like to do a few trials when I get a little further along. I’ll post some photos once it’s developed enough to be recognisable as an actual model. I’d be interested to see a photo of your implementation if you get a chance/are willing to share. The build is looking great by the way 🙂

For whatever reason, the 10277 is ‘exclusive’ to John Lewis in the U.K. which probably harms sales somewhat. Of course you can still buy from Lego direct online.

Hi @Beck The model looks great. Some great ideas applied here which I’m sure will inspire future builds of my own. I’m working on my first MOC currently, which is a Bo-bo-bo Locomotive. Have you designed this as a working model? If so, I’m interested in the technique you’ve use on the middle bogie to allow it to negotiate corners. I have a few ideas, but it will be a while before I can try anything physically. Unfortunately all the Lego is packed away currently as our house is on the market (boo!). Thanks, Mike

Looks awesome. There is potential to add functionality to the crane. The 60198 crane has quite a lot of functionality in a compact wagon which could help with ideas, if you are inclined to do so. Would be nice to see a video of it in action when complete. Thanks for sharing.

I stumbled across a YouTube video controlling Circuit Bricks with a Lego Powered Up controller. I traced it back to a German forum (which incidentally references this thread @zephyr1934 ). Opens up a load more functionality. The article has a lot of useful links, and thought anyone watching this would find it an interesting read. It’s in German, but using the auto translate feature on chrome it’s easy to read. https://www.1000steine.de/de/gemeinschaft/forum/?entry=1&id=453750#id453750 EDIT, just realised a similar video was linked on the last page 🤦‍♂️ Regardless, there are still useful links within the thread. Has anyone done any comparisons between the torque output of the circuit cubes motor compared to any of the Lego motors? I’m interested to know the difference in output. To date I don’t own any Lego motors (other than the train motors), but I am in need and will be looking to purchase as and when I have the time to get back to building. Mike

@Murdoch17 The MOC coaches are not my design (unfortunately), but a design I bought from rebrickable. I’ve got plenty of ideas for modifications/designs but currently I’m learning a lot before putting any of it into practise. Regardless I’ll post some photos soon once I’ve got an account setup elsewhere to host the images. I’ve made a few tweaks to them; 1 reduced the stud gap between the carriages by 1 stud by using 1x2 plate(s) with 1 stud to mount the bogies. I’ve currently got a few different setups of tiles over the train buffers as these keep disconnecting. Not necessarily the designers fault - the Lego type 3 buffers don’t have very strong grip through the anti-studs. Also as noted their is a lot of friction and this seems to be the weak point (before the magnets surprisingly). @zephyr1934 I’ve had the traction bands off of the truck wheels, although it hasn’t made a noticeable difference (unfortunately). The technic pins are definitely causing significant friction. I won’t know how much of a problem this is until I get my hands on a motor for the EN itself rather than push/pulling it with the cargo/passenger train. I’m interested to know more about the roller bearing wheel sets. I’ve only seen them on HA bricks. Do you have any recommendations/reading suggestions? I’d be interested to learn how to make them too. I’ve modified the rear truck, switching the orientation of the cross block and switching out the technic pin with a technic axel to pin connector which now allows for movement horizontally and vertically. I need a few parts for the front - debating whether to spend £2 on shipping for £0.40 of goods 🤔. I’m having a lot of internal debates (before payday) about track currently. It’s inevitable that I’ll buy some off brand switches, as you can’t use the Lego switches to implement a switchover on tracks running 8 studs apart (ignoring the overpriced old switchover piece). The ongoing debate is do I need/want R104 switches? Or are R40 switches sufficient? Seems like a good time to decide before investing in anything significantly. The BT R104 switches seem better value than trixbrix’s R104 (and the fact that BT are moulded too) the downside being the shipping costs/minimum order value for free delivery to the UK. Doesn’t seem much point ordering from HA bricks as they have a huge markup. Basically means a $200 order for free shipping which is steep. R104 switches aren’t cheap. Which brings me back to R40 switches. R40 would be fine now, particularly as I’m space limited, but I do like to run a longer train which means the R104 would be more suitable. Having said all that, in the short term I’ve only got R40 curves, which will likely be complemented with R56 soon. It will be a while before I get bigger curves due to space. I too quite like the look of the rail yard switches. The geometry means you can gain a lot of space in a setup, really good design by Mattze.

Hello all, I’m Mike and as the title suggests I’m new here. Around 2 months ago the penny dropped, now that I’m an adult (the ripe age of 28) I can spend my money on what I want - enter Lego (or brick) trains. Well the Lego spending started around Christmas, but (much to my partner’s dismay) the train spending only started 2 months ago. It started with a Hogwarts express train to accompany the Hogwarts castle, which was shortly followed by a 60198 Cargo train and a 60197 Passenger train. I also bought a 60051 High Speed train off Facebook market place (not sure I’m rushing to buy from their again after an hour spent washing the set in warm soapy water), and purchased the components to build an Emerald Night and 6 MOC passenger cars. There are a few off brand components that have been used, after all this is a hobby rather than anything else and some genuine Lego parts are ridiculously expensive. What I’ve used; 1x4x3 tan windows & glass (BlueBrixx - would recommend), train wheels and shafts (BlueBrixx - would not recommend, just don’t run as well as Lego), Plate with Bow 2 x 4 x 2/3 (BlueBrixx - would not recommend, the part is not as glossy as Lego pieces). I bought some ‘felph’ straight track pieces from Amazon, these have pretty good reviews but I don’t like them. They cannot attach to base plates as the anti stud on the female connectors is wrong and does not allow for a stud to recess correctly. Also the track surface is far from flat or uniform, and sits slightly higher than Lego track. The track isn’t that much cheaper, so definitely not worth it in my opinion. I’m not trying to endorse anything here, just trying to share some knowledge that I struggled to find when I looked myself. I built my EN at the weekend (bar a few pieces I’m still waiting on), along with 3 MOC carriages which turned out to be much larger than I anticipated, not sure I need 6 😅. I’m intending to power it up, but haven’t decided how to do it yet. If anyone has any suggestions feel free to post. I’ve read railbricks 7 and a few threads. I’m most likely to use the Powered up system as I’m intending to by another 60197 set to modify thr original, hence I’ll have spare hub. I’m a little worried about the friction, to move the EN and 3 carriages takes both the passenger train and cargo train, and it still struggles with a lot of wheel slip. I’ve modified it to use 2 technic axle holders already. The 4 wheels on the front bogie seem to have a disproportionately large amount of friction when rotation on the axle pins - no solutions to that yet. I guess I’ll end up with an XL powered up motor (assuming it fits). I will be looking to modify the trailing wheels and bogie to allow a degree of vertical movement as I like to run setups with inclines, and currently it seems as though even the slightest gradient change will cause the drive wheels to lose traction. In the near term I’d like to modify the passenger train, and get my hands on some new track. The injection moulded track looks more appealing but then your limited to R104 switches. Not sure what my feelings are on that yet. I like the idea of a few double slip switches and compact corner switches, but that means 3D printed track. Thats probably enough for today, feel free to say hello, Thanks, Mike