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ejayb

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Everything posted by ejayb

  1. ejayb
    Thank you Ashi. I'm in Kosice so I'll look out for anything between here and Budapest.
  2. ejayb
    After looking at this a bit more, I'm wondering it it's actually just an R104 switch. In this photo we can see that the parallel tracks are slightly shorter than the center track. In this photo we can see that the inside track, between the two tree-ways, is half an S16 offset to the outside tracks. And here, I think I've recreated this setup with TrixBrix R104 three ways https://i.imgur.com/6VwON14.png
  3. ejayb
    Ashi, were can I follow for updates about upcoming shows in Hungary?
  4. ejayb
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005021041096.html There's a triple switch now available from AliExpress. It appears to be designed for 8 stud gaps when used with opposing, standard geometry switches. If used with R40 curves to create parallel tracks, the stud gap looks to be 4 or 2. There's no adapter for 8 stud gap parallels. Has anyone tried it?
  5. ejayb
    Quote

    This shouldn't be any issue. Certainly the more grip you have the better, so putting traction bands on the blind drivers as well will help with this, but driving through blind drivers is not a problem for coupled axles. My GT3 model is set up this way and the rods just transfer the drive to all three axles.

    Hello Hod

    I was just reading the above message and wondered if I could clarify something. Your GT3's axle are only coupled by the external rods and only the middle axle is driven by the motor? Do you have some photos to show your design there?

    Thanks

     
    1. Hod Carrier

      Hod Carrier

      Hello,

      Thanks for the message. I had to try and track down which discussion you had taken the quote from, but I found it now. :classic:

      I don't have any photos of the GT3's drive to share, but I can confirm that the gears from the motor(s) drive the middle axle and that drive is transferred to the other two axles only by the external coupling rods. This seems to work perfectly well even if the middle axle has flangeless "blind" drivers. It's the same system of drive used on many real locomotives (including the GT3). It's just that the arrangement of the motors and battery box inside the model means that I can only get the drive down to the middle axle.

      I hope this helps to answer your question.

    2. ejayb

      ejayb

      It does! Thank you :)

  6. ejayb
    Sorry, I meant that the colour should change automatically based on a specified speed/step. I’ll look at the code later and see if I can add it
  7. ejayb
    Excuse me, it's been a while since I tried your script and my hub is currently running an automated loop for Christmas. As the PU remote only has buttons, do you just remember when you're at the 'last step' before 0 so you don't overshoot and send the loco in the other direction? In fact, changing the LED based on speed/power level could be useful. For example, the controller LED could be yellow for steps 1 and 2, the speed limit inside a yard, and then green above 2, for main line running. I realise that there is the profiles option but I'm not sure that really benefits this workflow. How do you use it?
  8. ejayb
    Lok, what do you think about the STOP function slowing the loco down to 0 at the same, or a similar, rate to the acceleration steps rather than an instant stop?
  9. ejayb
    Which set?
  10. ejayb
    Thanks for the reply Ts. One more question, does it have the same annoying whine as the train motor?
  11. ejayb
    I do have a train motor loco, I should have mentioned. Using a custom controller in the powered up app PoweredUp, I find that will begin moving on straights at power level 18 (out of 50 I believe?) but will shall on the switches. 21 will get it around the switches but then it's already running too fast.
  12. ejayb
    Thanks Thomas I'll be moving less, lighter wagons over level tracks so hopefully 1 will be enough. What gear ratio did you end up with? What range 'speed' are you usually running in the app? I'm hoping that running the motor closer to full speed reduces the whine from the controller. Do you have a thread on the build?
  13. ejayb
    What kind of wagons are you moving? Was two motors necessary?
  14. ejayb
    Following in, has anyone used the 88008 motor?
  15. ejayb
    A quick knock up. The front end and the height makes it look a bit silly.
  16. ejayb
    I apologise Lok, I thought only the Technic L and XL motors did speed control. I understand that you have the battery box mounted to two long Technic bricks. How is the motor attached? And what gearing did you use?
  17. ejayb
    20 is slightly longer than I'd like, but it's not 30 or 40. I also don't have the skills to design a decent model myself. Your example is very nice, but I want to use the 88013 motor for the speed (not power) function.
  18. ejayb
    The crocodiles body is about 20 studs long, a mod based on that might be the easiest and cheapest option.
  19. ejayb
    Do the running issues from from the main body and the driven axles or from the two articulated sections? Has anything tried running the body by itself? I'm thinking of buying the croc and building something with just the body for slow, shunting in an R40 yard. Taking inspiration from Ge 2/2 and a local tram among others.
  20. ejayb
    Can anyone point me to some examples of short locomotives powered by the large technic motor 88013? I'm imagining it standing up in the cable driving the rear axle and using roads to transfer power to the front.
  21. ejayb
    How many sidings will you have? Are those wagons a little big for shunting?
  22. ejayb
    Maybe a PU L-motor loco would be a better option for me, probably cheaper than several large radius switches
  23. ejayb
    A couple of comments mentioned using them for slower parts of the layout, but R40’s are a problem for slow, shunting moving, causing the train motor to stall I don’t have a problem with off-brand parts that Lego don’t sell, but I’m undecided about things they do. I assume Lego’s employment and environmental policies are much better than a no-name company trying to produce them as cheap as possible.
  24. ejayb
    Those who have higher radius curves, what did you do with your R40’s? Retired them? Use them on less important parts of your layout? Mixed curves (R56, R40, R56, R40, etc)?
  25. ejayb
    I’ve pressed maybe 25 BBs into a 1x2 bricks with a single technic hole and haven’t noticed any stressed cracks (but I will double check now). I have 4 that don’t roll so well. I can see that some of the plastic material has ‘scrapped’ away from the wall of the technic hole which could be causing friction.
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