thekoRngear

@Ngoc Nguyen That last one is savage! The 16t gear will now rotate most possible smoothest way [when the frames are finally fully attached/mounted]! That's the spirit man! Keep going on!

There has to be a 1:8 scale car as 2026 marks the 10th anniversary of UCS Car lineup. Ah, I become nostalgic, the Porsche, the wrong gearbox sequence, the dedumos and jb70 gang here in EB. Good ol days, the 2026 set for sure wont have such amount of buzz, not even a quarter I think!

No disrespect or disagreement with what Howitzer said, I also do not mind System bricks being blended with Technic sets. The designer(s) just have to have proper sense of using them inside/outside/front/back/top wisely. I am amazed by the use of system bricks used in the recent 42210 Nissan Skyline set and it does not bother me at all. In the back and on the dashboard they are used/mixed cleverly by the designer. They are eye-pleasingly good.

Great! Sadly this year prolly we won't be seeing any C model of an official Lego Technic set from you?

The King of Off-roaders is back! Watching that jeep crawling is a pure joy!

Cannot wait to see it in its full glory in video!

Noted! And thanks all. The steering problem is fixed as I settled with leftover #6536 perpendicular connector. No need for 5L lift-arms or the 3L ones as they look a bit occupied. The whole chassis with front diff, steering, crankshaft AND Engine pistons moves smoothly 🙏🏻

Okay, I will try with all the options above. Luckily I have some 7L Lego Flipflops. Though they are in DBG, I am gunna use them!

Big Update: Guys! We have slayed the beast! No more rolling resistance! No spread out/toe (or tow) out! The wheels just don't want to spread even if I push my finger slightly towards them. I assembled the whole chassis and the car moves just as fine as it moves backward; feels totally natural. Sadly, we cannot declare victory just yet. @Zerobricks @gyenesvi This happens. If I gently steer it still happens. My heart sinks. I think there was another reason why Lego used anything but with 3L underneath the gear rack. There is big empty space in between I used a black 5L beam with different orientation just for testing and it, just say, works. I have 2x 5L flipflop beams. And also 2 pairs of 5L lift-arms. I have detached the front chassis before one final modification finalization. This is the top view. When differential is mounted challenge increases. Howevr, I will have no problem keeping the car RWD as did the 2F2F movie guys. That will be a defeat tho' This will be the final version when everything is hopefully [properly] assembled including always on AWD. So guys, help me out one final time to mitigate the slack inside the gear rack movement!

That's mahoosive! 🙏🏻 I'll do that and let ya know guys!

Okay, I will do it too and let you guys know but, can you please explain/walk me thru as to how to extend the steering arms? Is it changing position or so? I'm kinda lost in there! Also, guys I have two of those Audi Q e-tron parts (72008 Technic Connector 2 x 2 with 1 x 1 Cut-Out with Axle Holes) in black. Just in case...

Thanks 🙏🏻 I'll try them. Interesting...

Indeed. So guys, here it is. The final steering rack solution which is actually a brilliant crossover by @Timewhatistime. I wanted to use 3x3 T beams because they are a life saver when it comes to steering rack. On the other hand, @Stereo came up with using 7L beam connecting the both end of the gear rack. Now we got both! It works so well Looks good too Look out Lego. You may have a team with a lead designer but, here, at EB these guys just selflessly poured in their highly efficient ideas that work so well. Now, another elephant in the room is the Engine. I won't ask for continuous help. The Engine, as I have built it officially in the beginning, is very wobbly. In fact, is the 2nd worst Engine after the 42128 HD Tow Truck. Is not liked by people over Technic Group in Facebook. Situation worsens as soon as the less liked pistons are put on those camshafts. Now, take a look in the official designs Since we have modified the steering rack we cannot use these connectors in that fashion. Moreover, I have seen the blue gear does not need one more stud support as they did with a 5L axle with stop. The foundation to mount the Engine from the front side [top to bottom] is very cartoonish. They stick out a 3l brown stop axle, put on a red perpendicular connector. Then a blue 2x1 thick liftarm sits on it. Provides poor support for the mounting. The 5l stop axle would tend to stick out from the bottom🤦‍♂️ Keeping in mind all these, I have come out with this solution. I used #44809 red part. Even after this, as you can see, the red beam tends to stick out a bit, but it stays that much as more and more time the car is moved. I also want to inform that the red beam's end point [connected by the 3L black bush pin] would also tend to stick out due to poor choice of using tan 4l axle they have used on the dashboard mounting. I have removed them with 3l hybrid pins and it does not stick out at all. Personally I think poor alignment of front and rear blue biscuit parts are to mainly blame for these issues. Cannot put blame on the 11L beam all alone. Also, note that I still did not install front diff yet. I want to finalize this design. So, any suggestions and insights are much appreciated.

Gotcha! On it!