MinusAndy

Here’s a pretty comprehensive article: https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/rallygroupbshrine.org/the-group-b-cars/rally-cars/ford-rs200/%3famp

That’s really nice, I like the back lights a lot. Definitely get a more complex gearbox in there if you can.

Yeah the current supercar wheels are too wide for stuff that isn’t a lambo. They’re perfect for 80’s stuff

I've made some reasonable progress on this in the last few days, being rained off at work has its advantages;) Still lots to do, Im not happy with the rear arch shape yet, and lots of other bits!

I'm a rummager. Well I was until a week ago when I bought some Stanley multi storage box-thingys and now I have all my small bits organised. The rest is in a 6 foot floormat/playbag thing. I wish I could be more organised but its just not in my nature.

Sweet. I’ll get some sorted this week. thanks people.

So the supercar I’m building has two of the long shocks from 8880 per wheel and it’s still sat lower than a snakes nutsack. The yellow version of that shock has stronger springs but I’m not up for paying 16 quid a corner to have firmer suspension! Has anyone on here looked into aftermarket stiffer/rising rate springs? I'm trying to stay purist in terms of parts but I’m using custom stickers as well so I figure a stronger spring swapped onto the Lego shock body is ethically cool in my book.

Fantastic!

I had planned to build a road going one a couple of years back with a Volvo t5 lump in it but a change in circumstances means the Lego one will have to do.

Hopefully these pics will work...

After 2 years I have finally finished my MOC of the Ford RS 200. More info on the original can be found here: https://rallygroupbshrine.org/the-group-b-cars/rally-cars/ford-rs200/ I originally decided to build it a few years ago and Bought the 9:11 gt3 to learn how to use studless technic so I could have a go at building this. Its had countless rebuilds and tweaks and I'm finally happy with it, I will continue to mess about and improve it though. It originally had a lot more system on it but I've tried to evolve as much as I can out over time, Just because I really like the technic aesthetic. I've tried to build it in the spirit of the original so it has 2 shocks per wheel, Double wishbones front and rear, All unequal. A centre box with modular body panels. Opening rear clam shell, mid-engine with two prop-shafts connecting the front mounted gearbox. Spare wheel in the engine bay etc Features: 5+R gearbox in H pattern, mounted in the front as in the original. Adjustable Centre Diff with Fully open, around 35% closed and around 75% closed (this is based on how it feels spinning the wheels). operated from lever next to the gear lever. 4wd. Working Fake Engine with cam chain (the original is a belt but it looked weird with bands). Ackerman steering. Independent long travel suspension with unequal length wishbones and 2 shocks per wheel. Opening rear clam with locking lever behind the seat. Opening bonnet with realistic bonnet pop mechanism operated from the passenger footwell. Opening doors. Opening glove box. Here are some Pics. Better ones with an actual camera. and a video coming soon. Thanks to Grey Gear, Rudvidk and others for advice, without which this model would have been even more shonky than it is. I just spotted some bits of roll cage that need a squeeze! https://www.flickr.com/photos/186653841@N02/with/50075755636/ There are loads of build pics on here if anyone is interested in that sort of thing. Thanks for looking. Andy. I’m not really into pointy Italian cars and stuff like that. I’m a fan of ugly, purposeful stuff and there’s not many cars more ugly and purposeful than this ‘80’s group B rally monster. For 12 years it was the worlds fastest accelerating production car and I love that amid the cutting edge technology it also has a load of stuff raided from Fords Sierra parts bins. I’ve been thrashing away at this for a while. It’s my first Lego build since about 1998 so it’s taken a while to get to grips with studless building techniques. The front is now at a stage where I’m reasonably happy with it. Function wise it has working suspension with two shocks per wheel, as the original. It’s got a moving BDT engine with working cam chain. sequential 4 speed gearbox in the front, as the original. (Though the original wasn’t sequential I really wanted to build a rally style shifter) It also has 4wd with three diffs, (the centre diff is semi open using a modified clutch wheel.)Steering, opening doors, will have opening rear clamshell and probably a few decals. Hopefully I’ll get the rear clamshell built in the next couple of months and then I can turn my attentions to a huge A10 thunderbolt that I’ve been casually flirting with building for a while now.

I reckon you could shim the planetary gears with acetate sheet to increase the friction in this and make it semi-open.

I used a clutch wheel with one spring plate taken out and bridged the crown wheel and one output shaft on an open diff to create a "viscous" centre diff in my RS200 MOC and so far it seems to work really well. I need to make it slightly more compact though.

Yeah it’s no ball of fire but it’s a phenomenal engine with loads of grunt. Mine is barely run in at 250000 miles and it will run on literally any derivative of oil/diesel.

Ahh my bad, I know nowt about land rovers, except a land rover half shaft is an essential workshop item for persuading ball joints apart. I meant a fake cummins b series, It would be a cool engine to build as the camshafts are gear driven off a huge flywheel. My house has one in it. Its quite a long lump though.

How about dropping an inline 6 in there? I believe the Cummins b series goes in the landy pretty nicely.

Fab. Thanks for that. Is that using the thin flex pipe things? It’s given me an idea to use the 2 hole liftarms that have the axle slots in one hole. Then I don’t need the pins in the holes? If that makes sense.

yeah, thats why I'm tempted to use a bit of black decal on those bits. (or drill out a couple of thin black arms :))

I have, but I'd need a thin black one for that and those only have axle slots rather than holes. Ive tried using a thin one as the first one on the arch, thereby using the thin part of the soft axle for the thin black liftarm but it just didn't seem to hang together that well. I'm currently waiting on a 50 2 hole white liftarms delivery so I can do the rest of the arches like that regardless.

Cool, more Lego for us grownups.

Cheers folks. Allanp, thats exactly what I think about the line, if you were to draw a caricature of this car you'd feature that line for sure. (and the startling ugliness of the whole car) Im going to upload some terrible pics with it flat and with a slight rake added to the suspension. I think im going to keep the stripe built in but where it runs through the wheelarch i might use a decal as i cant figure out how to keep it continuous. Bear in mind this is my first go at this and also very much a WIP, once I work out how to build it all I'll tear it down and build it properly! If I can still stand the sight of it!

I scaled back from wheel size and worked out the ratio from the original to the Lego size. The rs200 is from the 80’s and had small wheels so the rest of the car is a little bigger. It came in at 1:7.

I’ll chuck some up tonight. It’s very much a work in progress.

Hi all, i could use a bit of advice. I'm working my way through my first 1/7 scale MOC car. It has a swage? line running round the whole car. The bodywork is all white and the line is a prominent either black or red one, depending on the version. I've tried building it in with a line of thin plates between panels and liftarms but it presents problems where the wheel arches come in and also the general structural stability of the model. The other main problem is that it runs at a slight angle right around the car to add stance to it, as I'm fairly new to studless technic I was wondering about the following solutions: One solution is to use a pinstripe decal instead, but obviously this feels like a cop out. Another is to build the whole car raked at an angle and then pull it out again at the cills using gradual slopes. This will be a pain regarding thingslike the angles of the roof and front grille though. Finally do I just accept the limitations of it and build it flat and level and maybe jack up the rear suspension a touch to add some visual angle? Basically I've been scratching my head over it for months and I'm leaning towards the pinstripe option. Is this kosher Thanks for any help and advice anyone can give me. https://www.classicdriver.com/en/car/ford/rs-200/1986/316031

Absolutely fantastic! What a great band too. So far ahead of their time back in the 90's. Mike Patton's ability to make weird noises is featured on many games and movies.I believe he voiced the monsters on "I Am Legend". For a good while, Jim Martin was into growing oversized prize winning vegetables too!