XG BC

They are usually small 3 pin ics, sometimes 4 pin, the best way usually is to check the supply voltage of for example the arm chip on the board, or any other chip (should be specified in the Datasheet which pin you need to check. if that looks okay (like no 9v where there should be 5v or something) look for what gets hot.

thats a good idea aswell, try and limit the current a bit, but otherwise go ahead. if you can, try and check the supply voltages for the individual chips, maybe some voltage regulator blew.

hmm thats weird, you have to find a chip with the same pinout (i.e. which of the pins does what) and the same (or greater) specifications otherwise. the short can be anything, either in one of the ICs, a capacitor being shorted out, hard to tell.

does it now power on? if yes, that specific chip might be broken

yes, exactly, some of the pins look bridged in the image, but not sure.

on the 2nd image on the bottom left ic (the L8something one) i see some Pads shorted together, might see what that is

now i changed the front, looks better

Thank you!

thank you! even going through switches is not an issue , the lenght of the pick up ski is longer than the gap in the switch, it doesnt get caught on things either.

Today i installed both pickups, it works very well, after adjusting the pickups a bit to be (close to) flat.

here is the file @Toastie https://e.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZwPa6Z3alKoylm1nXumsvXHnVrJJMFdTsk have fun building it!

update: got the pickups today, they fit very well, havent tested it electrically, only done a test fit so far. its like they are made for that locomotive, they clear the gap on the switch electrically, dont get caught on the gap either.

You can soon completely steal the design, once i get to uploading it to the pcloud folder i shared with you guys, heck ill even give you a direct link if you want. @Toastie Otherwise you need to search through the files but you are german, so shoiuldnt be an issue either. I wont be building this one irl, if you find anything in the io file that doesnt work irl, let me know and i will fix it. And now its featured! insane for something that took me all of 2 days to design and is half copied from my köf 2...thank you!

i tried that, but it looked weird, the cups are just too big. i have now changed the model a bit, i lowered the cab by 1 plate, i figured out how to do the front wheels, which made mounting the lights kinda difficult, but i figured it out: i also added the rear lights now.

another model thats kinda impossible to build in 6-wide: this is the first locomotive of the Kö/Köf series of shunting engines. its even shorter than the köf 2, but the cab is a little bit taller. the undercarrige is stolen from my Köf 2 model, but shortened by 2 studs. i am not happy with the front wheels covering yet. and it still needs some detailing in the rear

thank you! the contrast of the studded roof and the rest of the model is an interesting contrast, it looks good irl too.

So, i have built a Donnerbüchse passenger car a couple of years back. This time i decided to build all the variants, starting with the normal traditional open platform end car, in various liveries the green one is probably the most common one, while the dark red and red variants are for push/pull trains mostly. these were later converted to be cab cars (the red/white one is built irl then they also did ones with enclosed ends: and the entire reason for this posts existance, the baggage car these housed brakes, a baggage compartment and some space for crews, its kind of like a caboose but with several other purpouses. since bricklink asked for a caboose, but i wanted to make a German model this is the closest we have. also different liveries of these, the red one was for regional and longer distance service, the green one only for regional, and the tan/red one was also paired up with longer wagons for express use. all these wagons are preserved in some form. i have ridden on the open and enclosed platform versions (both in green), its quite an experience, these rattle a lot, hence the name.

yes, thats what model ralways also do, with the capacitor, one of my dads h0 scale models (also a köf) can go like 5cm on its own without power. edit: its appearantly more, see here: https://youtu.be/B9WRJTVZ5fI?feature=shared

i personally dont like battery powered trains, so if i can avoid it in any way, i use 9v. i think what is essential for dcc is to have a big enough capacitor that smoothens out the power.

https://www.amazon.de/Lenz-10231-02-Lokdecoder-Standard-Stecker/dp/B01AC4F37I?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A1OJFXZJRNZN81 the Decoder itself is 20 bucks here. i havent checked the receivers price on bricklink. the thing that sends power to the rails is more expensive, like 60 bucks on ebay, but you can make one for much less with an arduino.

i had to zoom way in too, the bulges where the tracks connect gave it away

that is also an option, yes. people have indeed gone that route. depending on what you already have (my dad does h0 scale model train stuff, and he has a spare piko dcc control box laying around that i am fairly certain i could borrow). the decoders are the same price as the pf ir receiver (a normal one, without sound) essentially.

Thank you! i will update you guys when i get the pickups.

i currently only have one irl train, soon have a second one, when the power pickups from my köf arrive. there are multiple options, either have tracks able to be switched off or i might go dcc (like in model trains) soon.

https://github.com/mduller/pybricks-micropython-circuitcubes you can programm both the powered up stuff and the cirquitcubes stuff with pybricks, but not sure about sensors (i have gone the other direction as you myself, switching to 9v).