FriedlS

@pow and @2GodBDGlory the problem of higher voltage and the buggy motor is, that as you can see at the list above, the electrical power rises very much. But the efficiency isn’t 100% so you have got also lost power. E.g. electrical power at 10.5V is 15.3W. Efficiency is 40% so you have got 38.25W lost power (approximately). This means you generate 53,55W to get 15,3W electrical power. The most of the lost power is heat ( and a part is friction) which must be handled by all electrical parts. And here are the PF Connectors the weak part. At 9V you get 12.6W electrical power with an efficiency of 37%. So you have got 34.05W lost power. So you have got approximate 11% less lost power as at 10.5V. This is a lot and this may be the reason why it can works with 9V but you will get trouble with higher Voltage. To be honest my electrotechnology lessons were several years ago, so i guess not everything is exactly right. But this is the way i try to explain the problems with the combination of higher voltage and buggy motor and PF connectors. Update: One point may be not right in my explanation, the efficiency may be the comparison between electrical and mechanical power. So the lost power may be lower as i mentioned but it will increase with higher voltage. Another point is that the contact resistance of the PF connector may be very high. So at higher voltage you produce more lost power at the connectors, i guess. cheers, Friedl 😊

@Alex Ilea thank you very much😊

@pow An Ackermann steering geometry would be possible with my construction. I tried it, but there weren’t any advantages in order of the handling. A positive caster angle helps to drive forward especially after cornering. So my rear wheel drive cars have got a positive caster angle. This G-class doesn’t have. Here you can see the steering angle: @gyenesvi I can confirm this. The main problem is the limited PF connector. But you can also do this with any other PF motor. @aFrInaTi0n I totally agree with the issue that there is no analog controller for BuWizz. Another advantage of this small ESC is that it has got a power switch and also a switch for activating the motor brake when you go from forward to backwards.

Thank you very much! 😊 The Transmitter and receiver are 2.4Ghz, it is more popular these days 😉 The ESC spec is for use with 2s Lipo. I tried a 3s Lipo, it works but the temperature of the ESC parts got warm in shorter time and it smelled not good. I ordered this ESC AS12/15RW BEC EASY which should also work with 3s. The advantage of the 2s ESC is, it is small. In my opinion it is very simple to change the wires at the fake buggy motor and i also removed the thermal resistor. Until there is no analog controller for 3rd party battery hubs it is the best alternative for me. 😊

Thank you very much! you can see the electronic parts here (except the geek servo changed): I use a receiver e.g. Radiolink and a esc where you can connect the battand the motor. In my case i changed the wires at the motor to bec connector for the esc. I never tried to connect a Lego servo with this receiver, soi can’t say how the wires have to be changed. Geek servo has got three wires (+, -, s), lego servo has got four. Hope this is helpful for you. Thank you very much! There is a photo of below, which detail do you want to know?

Hello, i like to show you my version of a drifting G-Class. Bodywork design is by https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-111437/_.lego._.technic._/mercedes-benz-g-class/#details i just did some modifications to fit my 4wd chassis with rc components. propulsion: buggy motor steering: geek servo receiver: Radiolink battery: 7.4V LiPo here are some pictures: and a clip: Hope you like it 😊 Cheers, Friedl

Looks nice, but it looks like there is no proportional controller just on/off.

I bought them by aliexpress. I also use two motors at one port. They have got the same power, but the current increases so you have to be careful that the load isn’t to high. Or the weight of the car isn’t to high.

Wow, nice work! But why don’t you use a rc motor (brushless)? e.g.:

I use also the MK batterybox and controller and i am very satisfied with it. I also bought these MK buggy motors and removed the overload protection. So it is possible to build models with higher gearing without stalling. You can see it in my topics here on eurobricks or in my yt channel.

I know this question response not to the topic, but which Bluetooth trackpads for BuWizz are available?? Without using a cellphone as hub?

Interesting topic! Thanks to @Zerobricks!! 😊 in my opinion more BuWizz/Buggy Motors helps to get faster and get more torque, but as @Daniel-99 already mentioned, it is difficult to control these cars with a cellphone. Unfortunately there is no good solution available to control BuWizz 😕

Wow! Awesome work!

Unfortunately i have disassembled the car already. The only picture i have got are this one:

Nice work!

Very good!!! 👍👍

Wow, it is amazing! Only a analog controller (without using a cellphone for a hub) is missing 👍😊

No, the CaDa servo has only got three steps with this batterybox. I think they work about 2-3 hours and now both do only rotate in one direction.

Thank you very much! The most positive impact is the positive caster angle, for straight forward. With this camber angle and the original Lego drift tires it is easier to loose grip and drifting is little bit easier. But the differences aren’t very big.

Great work!! 😊

Hi, here is also a great rc tire for crawlers:

That is right, thank you very much! 😊 Unfortunately not. The response of the CaDa Servo is a little bit slower than the original Lego Servo. But i had to change it because two of my Lego servos don’t work anymore after using it in this chassis 😒 And you are right of the camber angle 😊 here are some more pictures:

Update: One of my favorite technic cars, i had, the 8860 😊. Here is a attempt to honor this car, based on the drift chassis above:

Looks great! 👍😊

Update: now with the original LEGO drift tires: