LEGO_duden

Ok, thanks. That makes sense.

Hi, I am looking at the website and looking at the fabrik shop/attraction. They state: - Sale of marked products only in customary household quantities Maximum quantity of marked articles: 100 grams per person, per day What is 'marked products' actually?

If nothing will be possible this year, I really hope for Gunzburg next spring.

Agree, puzzeled me too that they were empty that fast. Which leads me to think it will either reappear or the shipping trouble was bogus. Can't really remember, sorry.

No, I ordered right after midnight and it was included. Guess they are out allready.

Hi, I once cast a polyurethane copy of Boba Fetts helmet. I use it on RC parts mainly Two component silicone is very good at replicating details. It does not stick to anything but silicone (problem with 2 part mould) There are a few things to be aware of. Through holes have to be blocked on one side, preferably on the inside of the piece, a piece of scotch tape is fine. Silicone is kind of soft, so keep it mould int the Lego form while casting, else you risk deforming it while casting. Suggest you use at least 10mm of silicone as minimum around the piece. Large pieces could need more or some stiffening, plastic sticks fx. ;Air pockets will happen if you dont plan on venting somehow or let the air out on top where you pour. Lego is great for making the casting in, its not destroyed at all. It may be wise to use cling film anyway as it might leak between the bricks. To make 2 part mould you could use clay, some clay contain sulphur that will inhibit the silicone cure. Make some marks in the clay so the 2 parts will stay in place. When casting the second part you need some wax or soemthing to prevent the silicone to stick to the first part. Some cast all in one piece and cut it open with a scalpel to remove the piece inside and cut a pouring hole. Can work ok. Silicone and polyurethane is hardly available here, so I have bought from UK. There are also several sellers in US if that is closer for you, but I am not familiar with them, as postage is too expensive. Color matching will be a trial and error.

Just run pwm at 75% and you will effectively run the motors at 9V.. Do you have a switch powering design ready?

Interesting project. You have a few light sensors, but no light source? Are you counting on stray light in the room? The ESP32 is not 5V tolerant on inputs, strongly suggest level converters. You plan on controlling the train via BT from the ESP32 and the switches? How will you control the ESP32, or the logic behind all? I do wonder how experienced you are in programming, afraid you are facing a steep learning curve here.

You should have a look at FX bricks. I met Michael Gale last year and he has great visions of recreating the 9V system including motors and controllers. Tracks are well on its way, I got a sample S32 last year, and the quality is superb. https://www.fxbricks.com/fxblog/ https://www.fxbricks.com/downloads/FxTrackPreReleaseJun2019.pdf

Flights to/from Billund here: https://www.bll.dk/en-en/planlaeg-rejsen/rejseinfo/tidstabeller-for-rutefly

Oh, count me in, not sure yet if I can stay the whole event... Any hints on programme?

Very cool. Looking forward to updates.

You can feed the 2 wires straight through the wagon, and just tapping them off to a rectifier bridge. This way the polarity on the wires does'nt matter. If you are concerned about the voltage drop across 2 diodes, schottky diodes will help. But the 9V available in PF should be sufficient. You can even modulate the powerline and decode commands in a attiny10 for instance. No, I have not done this, but it should be doable.

Oh, the proposed dates was good for me. And was thinking about visiting a few car museums in Stuttgart while in the area. Well, looking forward to the final decision.

And the train station 60050 has been discontinued. No new in sight.