BrickMusher

@AE bricks Hi, You can find more pictures of that Loco at my flickr-page. https://www.flickr.com/photos/156473872@N02/ I had some trouble with my computer, and after that was fixed, with my camera. New camera will arrive next week, so i hopefully will be able to add pics of newer MOC´s with that cockpit-piece within the next week. So please feel invited to have a second look to my flickr-page in a couple of day´s So far, I hope you enjoy. Regards BrickMusher

What I really like on your Videos is the quality of the video itself. Beside the trains, of course. I would really appreciate a "making-of" video. I mean, you have this slow camera-moving during limelapse, fly-overs, and all this other stuff that makes a video looking so professional. I get allready trouble with the light when taking some non-moving pictures.... What do you do to eliminate the shaking, for example? How do you avoid dark areas and strong shades when filming? Would really really like to see some kind of tutorial. However, I allways enjoy you videos.

But it is used worldwide, so "regional" does not really fit! My guess is "Lego Railroad/Railways Transport System" I know about various examples where (real) train companies also run busses and cargo trucks, so why not?

So yes, that's probably about the right assertion... Is it? Think we talk about two different pairs of shoes, don´t we? Fitst thing is selling MOC-Instructions via YT, that was complaint about from the first post in this thread. Now you are talking about generating money with his YT Channel. Well, I have never seen any (of this annoying) commercials when watching jimbricked viedeos. So you allready get payed by YT even when not allowing their commercials? Sorry. I am not so deep in that YT stuff to understand fully. At the moment, I think its a sign of not been only/fully commercial that I have never seen an advertisement @Jimbricked YT-Channel?! Maybe I need some explanation on that?!

No, not really. Think there must be a better way. At least 13019 subscribers that like LEGO like we do, dont know about the "why"..... he only disappears... Don´t think thats a good day for Lego-Fans. Neither in one nor another way

Hmm, I don´t think so..... To state it clearly. I absolutely don´t advocate what you have done! I don´t like commercialization at all, and in particularly not if unauthorized! But: You have 13k subscribers, and I think you make them happy with your videos..... Anyway, thats no excuse, but maybe a good basis to do something more right?! Stating somewhat more obvius that the MOC is not yours and something about the original developer would be a first step IMHO. I think the main problem is way more bigger than only one YT-channel. Youre are not the first doing some infringement, and you wont be the last. Maybe it is time now to start a general discussion about how-to publishing, sharing and using MOC´s files, pictures, instruction or whatever. I am neither good in law-issues, nor are my english-skills sufficient enough to understand ToU or explanations of public licenses without any doubt. But i know that things like GNU exist. However, I have never seen a MOC published under a GNU license. On the other hand, I often find interesting MOC´s or building techniques online wich I use for my own. I have never posted such MOC´s, also because I tried to avoid any infringement. In other words, because I am uncertain how to do it "the right way". So maybe use of public-licenses can be helpfull for both sides? Yes, jimbricked has gotten things into a mess, but can anyone really exspect things will become better whithout changing something? I have not a clue how to do it the right way, but in my opinion, the community should discuss and find a way to act in future. Also to give both, MOC- developers and MOC- rebuilders a little bit mor safety about what is allowd and what needs additional permission/ is not allowed. TLC has stated some Terms of fair play. I think we could do something similar....? Or just use GNU´s? Just my two cents, let me know what you think

did a picture-search on it, didn´t exspect what I fund..... (dont do if you´re under 18 ) Okay, I got your point. Have some "replics" on my own. But I have not shown them yet in public since I dont know whom to credit for the original construction.... So even when a Moccer did not come up with instructions or LDD.files, I think it´s just fair to give him credit if you copy. Make some profit on others work, indeed, is an absolut no-go! I think we all agree on that!

Thank you both for clarification. Don´t want to see a witch-hunt heading to the wrong people. But how can I figure out now who it was and what other AFOL´s work is also affected?

Hmm, when searching on YT as been instructed above, I will find a British AFOL at third place. Don´t think thats the right one?!? Just to be sure that not the wrong guy will be find guilty by readers that will come after us.... Despite that, I really agree that behaviour like this is not very gentlemanlike. On the other hand, I dont understand why somebody buys Lego-Instructions at all? For me, it is always more fun to find an own way by photos than to build from instructions?!? Anyway, really sorry to hear that. I remember a similar issue in a german forum where somebody sold not-his-own-creation-instructions on ebay a while ago..... no idea how this ended...

Well, the position of the camera is also very high (compare persons in background). I would not wonder if the photos have been taken with one of thoose spy-cameras that are inbuild in glasses/googles. Could be an explanation also for the low-quality..... In Nürnberg it was not allowed to take pictures. Did anyone know if it was the same at the mentioned event in Italy? Found new information that the toyfair was in Russia, not Italy....

I usually use 2 Boat-weights on every Loco (so around 110 gr of extra weight) You placed the battery-box only half over the motor, so I guess nearly half of the pressure will be lead throu the undriven bogie. And rechargeble batterys are sometimes surprisingly lightweight. It also helps to place the motor on the rear end of Loco/waggon due to dynamic load distribution. About the door-issue: Your roof-construction looks somewhat weak, I think that gives to much freeplay to the upper doorrails and make the doors faling of. Try to fix the door-rails as good as possible. On dynamic problems, a short video often helps to explain or detect the problem better than photos can do. Good luck, keep us informed if you find anything ;-) Regards BrickMusher

I guess, because of the whistle?! Was that one ok? Heard they are often broken. But have never seen one on my own.... https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=x870cc02#T=C&C=11

Maybe you should ask @JopieK

I once opened one of the regulator, analysed the electric parts and did some customizing. Some conclusions: 9-12V input voltage is possible polarity of the plug dosn´t matter since there are rectifier-diods inbuild AC or DC input is possible Current up to 1,5 A is possible (the inbuild Thyristor can handle 1,5Amps and has an automatic shut-off when it´s becoming to hot, that means it will start working again when it has cooled down) There are two versions of the speed-regulator know to me so far. One has a resistor-cascade in a single housing, while the other has single resistors for regulating the speed. On the last one, you can also change resistors to change the power-output on each of the speed-levels, but the max. output will never be higher as approx 9-10V (power drop due to the regulator circuit) Customizing: If you run your trains outside, you can also use a 12V Car battery as power supply for the Regulator, but I would recommend to use an extra fuse than because this batteries can provide a huge ammount of current!!! Also the Thyristor can be replaced by more powerfull samples. I run up to 5 Amps with a modified regulator, but this needs definitely more cooling! So I used an old Computer-cooling device. Runs without trouble on exhibitions on weekends ( two days/ 8 hours, 10 Train-motors and really heavy loads) If you have to buy new power-supply, I will highly recommend to buy one that delivers 1000 mAmp to 1,5 Amp of current! regards BrickMusher

Hello, many thanks for your kind words. The ordered parts have arrived, so there are more of this engine/canopy-family coming soon. Unfortunately my computer broke down, so all the photo-posting for this and other threads will have some delay, sorry for that. Hope I am back again next weekend... @Toxic43 I am not sure if I have ever maked a LDD file of this trains, but I will take some pictures when assembeling the new units, so please be patient but stay tuned at the same time, I will post asap. Regards

Yes, of course. Had a short look into my Lego-room, found several components of that lathe. Try to find my XL-Motor in one of the untouched moving-boxes during the next days. And I hope I have a lamp-post leftover. Drilled around 100-150, dont remember exactly.... we will see. Are you only interested in that device, or in a manual about how to install LED in that Streetlamps in general? Could create a own thread with some sort of tutorial if there is demand... just give me a week or two..

Hei Commander Wolf, that, once more, shows me how right it was not to invest into ME rail.... Despite this, I really like your idea of using Lego parts for a technical application (I use a turning-lathe made of technic for drilling my lamp-posts) Anyway, for bending rail-profiles (somewhat bigger than gauge-1) I build a device similar to this: Pic 1 (klick me) Pic 2 (klick me again) Advantange is the adjustable gap between the ballbearings, so nearly every radii is feasible. And, of course, it is very durable. I used normal flat-washers instead of the massive bushings shown under the bearings. Ballbearings are cheap ones from my local RC Model shop (around 1 Euro each), all other parts are available at normal hardware-stores. Total price was somewhat around 20 Euros.... However, interesting report, thaks for sharing! Regards BrickMusher

Hello everyone, today I would like so present You my NOHAB Roundnoses. The MOC´s are older, but I took new pictures and finally uploaded them to my flickr-account. Two more are WIP, but I am still waiting for parts. So expect more to come in the next weeks http://NOHAB inspired Roundnose by Brick Musher, auf Flickr http://NOHAB inspired Roundnose by Brick Musher, auf Flickr Please see also the complete album on flickr. Thanks for watching BrickMusher

Well, I think the best way to figure out is to ask @HoMa himself?

@ColletArrow @Capparezza Thanks for your feedback, I really like the idea to use Bar 1x3 with clip as pantographs. Think I have never seen before. Indeed they could be somewhat stronger. With all the weight, it randomly flaps down when touching. Might flap as well when the engine runs on a layout, havn´t tried yet. Will have a look to the handrails also, makes things easier. About the tile/slope/ groove issue: You are right, the tile without groove would also do a good job, but I prefer slope curved, 1x2 due to better availabilty.

Preliminary Train [MOC] in new colour-scheme Took me some time, but here it is in the suggested colour-scheme I did also a modified version (indeed I just modified ONE side, so the engine is different on left and right ) I exspect your judgement about wich modification you like, and wich one I should rebuild. So here it is. As always, you will find more pictures on my flickr-account Started with this LDD-render http://NS1600 by Brick Musher, auf Flickr This is how it looks in real life: http://NS1600 MOC by Brick Musher, auf Flickr And here the modified second side: http://NS1600 MOC by Brick Musher, auf Flickr modification: black rail under Front-window, nose shortened one plate, red lights added, 1x1 tiles under front-window changed to round-slope 1x2 (no grooves), changed side-windows (60032 instead of 60592), white step at door instead of red, white grille in middle of body, handrails beside doors, doors with levers, small changes on undercarriage. Let me know what you think about. BrickMusher P.S. Yes, I need a new camera. This is the best result I could get so far. Sorry

Just in theory... IF a clone brand releases a new set before TLC does, can they seek for injunction against TLC???

@JopieK Now it´s you how´s leaking Frankly I havn´t realised the yellow helmet before. Concerning TLC´s politics this year, on one hand I think I can understand why they do so. On the other hand I also think that the problem is home-(china)-made. I wished TLC would communicate more about the reasons. But maybe I am just to naive and it´s not like talking to your best friend. Maybe they want to hide how big (or small?) the problems really are..... And maybe a company has to behave different in communication than a private person. I just wish that one day, they will just tell us why they don´t use doors anymore on passenger trains. Or the train windows. I wish that TLC will tell us one day why they don´t show up with 2HY set at the different fairs anymore And I wish that the green cargo train on the preliminary cover is not the final version (time will show) So you good guys of TLC, knowing now that you read this thread also: I love your product but I am not very pleased by how you handle your (adult)-customers at the moment. I think You wouldn´t lose face if you talk a little more to us AFOL´s! But honestly, the most of us don´t need a train set as long as TLC offers parts that are usable for Train MOC´s. So Train-doors on (even cheaper) friends-sets are ok for me. Train windows on city sets would be also great... the more sets TLC releases during the year, the more possible train-related parts we get.... at this point I get a little bit ambivalent. stumped Yours BrickMusher

I Think it looks more like the NS1200. Please have a look to the front lights and the round fairings around the coupling. But since this engine was constructed by Baldwin, it might be a US design indeed, but adapted for european needs. But I am just counting beans Has anybody realized that the Train windows on the 60198 look somewhat different from all other windows on this boxart? It says "placeholder" on the conductor and the remote, so it will be modified anyway. So I am not absolutely convinced yet that this will be the final engine...

Jep, also love this colour scheme. I replaced some parts due to availability. Think it should be buildable in this variation. Did a quick render in stud.io Full credits to ColletArrow. Try to build it as soon as I get the missing parts (have not erverything in stock ) http://NS1600 by Brick Musher, auf Flickr ( @ColletArrow P.S. Hope my text under flickr-pic is ok for you... otherwise please send me a message with your wishes)